Getting into hard boots, bought a used Hooger Booger Grinder 158

[Da Hooger Booger]

I was riding a Hooger Booger Grinder 148 all these years (i'm 17) that i picked up at a yard sale, i rode it for a couple years with all plastic really flexy Firefly bindings, used a flat stance or a forward stance for a while. Then i realized the carving potential i had with the 148, i started experimenting and getting low so i could lean on edge further and further, i got to know the board really well. I reached a wall though last season with it, i was always trying to master the heelside carve, but it never got nearly as good as my toeside, i realized it was probably boot out, one night i actually adjusted both bindings to angles of i'd say 50/60, gave it a go, it took a few runs to actually get used to the new feel, but i could actually do a proper heelside carve, without having to lean way the hell back to initiate a heelside carve or to compensate for the massive 1.5" binding overhang. I reached a point where i knew i needed something with more control, i quickly found i've outgrown it this season. So i lucked out and found a Grinder 158 with original Wombat bindings for 40 bucks.

What i want to know is, would it be ok to just use the Wombat bindings and ski boots before getting into carving full stop? I hear ski boots are unforgiving, forcing you to develop good habits early on. I mainly am worried about the bindings, they seem to be some sort of plastic coated metal, they're deffinitely not plastic, and deffinitely stiff enough to use today.

[Pokolikrat]

I rode Wombat with ski and snowboard boots years and yeas ago. If I remember correctly I had no problem but the base plate of binding slowly bent up a little bit.

[BlueB]

Hey, I remember your post, few years ago!

Good find the new Grinder. However, it will probably be too soft for you pretty soon...

Grinder 168 was my 1st alpine board. I rode it with Emery Quatro bindings and ski boots (I still ride modified ski boots). Yor biggest task with Wombats will be finding a way to get some toe lift in front and heel lift in the back. As the ski boots are so unforgiving, it is very important to get your stance right. I find them almost imposible to ride flat...

Here's my old Hooger. Beautifull graphics.

[kipstar]

those look like fritschi bindings (also OEM for nitro as well and oxygen for a while).

Very nice bail design on them; I used these bindings for years, and so far still have only broken 1 pair I think.

[BlueB]

Sharp eye, Kip! Fritchi, in deed, in that photo. They were also OEM to Crazy Creek, besides Oxygen. Worked great with ski boots, as the bail alowed for some flex and built in toe/heel lifts and some cant. Pretty indestructable too, as the main structure was steel!

[Da Hooger Booger]

Thanks for the comments. I really have outgrown the 148 hugely, i need more control. With the 148, on very soft plastic Firefly bindings with softish Sims boots, and a flat stance, i'm very able to replicate

carver, mostly the early part of the video (ankle movements) on the soft boots, it's just that i'm afraid to dig trenches on heelside because of the ridiculous binding overhang. It really becomes a problem because i can never fully control my speed, because my binding overhang makes it so i can never use my HB's sidecut to it's full potential on heelside. I figured getting into a stiff setup, paired with a longer board will remedy this problem, so that i can actually enjoy carving. Like i said, i'm positive it is the boot overhang, my toesides are very good, i can do deep semicircles, and actually did a 360 carve once.

I think with the existing stance i'm used to on the 148, i'm completely ready to transistion to stiff, and more control (longer board). I am pretty confident i have the movements down pat. I was more in the market for a 168 HB, but figured a 158 was going to be up my alley too, i know i'm probably going to outgrow it soon as i get on plates, but whatever. My second question would be, how exactly do you transfer your skills on the stance you're used to, over to the hard binding stance? Will it just come in time?

[newcarver]

On your stance transfer from soft to hard setup. I would use the same distance between the bindings. Try small increments of angle increase. Maybe 5 to 10 degress at a time. Usually run less split in angle from front to back 5-10 degress max for carving only. More if you're using it as AM. Try to get comfortable with the higher angles until you can get the bindings high enough that you don't have overhang. When I started on HB, was able to run around 30-40 deg comfortably. After riding a while now can do up to 60 in comfort and ride my SBs with up to 35 with them. Just takes time and you can play around with canting and lift too. Lots of options. Have to find your comfort zone. A lot depends on your physical characteristics. Specifically your leg shape and how your feet are (bowed, pigion toed, etc.)