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Holland says hi/stance width


willem

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Hi,

I'm new to this forum so first a small introduction to my question.

Last time I've been snowboarding was about 15 years ago,

on my 164 Nidecker with almost no sidecut and Kästinger tourski hardboots.

I'm planning a trip to the Alps in a few weeks, at first I wanted to use my old Nidecker but then decided to rent an alpine board with some hard boots.

That turned out to be impossible, neither where I live(the Netherlands) nor the place I'll be visiting in Switzerland rents out alpine boards, weird.

So I found a complete, hardly used set on Ebay.de (for about two times the amount I would have spent on renting the gear): A german Plenk Pin Trip with Snowpro f.a.s.t bindings and Raichle af700 boots.

I read as much as possible about setting up bindings, but I still have some questions I hope you can help me out with.

For example stance width:

I used to have 15.75 inch on my oldschool board and set the new one up with 17.30 inch stance width.

I added some lift under the toe part of my front foot binding (the heel part of the rear foot binding already had lift and both bindings have cant), now the stance feels more or less ok.

The board is 164cm (eff.edge ±147cm), radius 9.75 m, waist width 19 cm, setback ±3 cm and I am 6.29 feet tall, 187 lbs.

My question: is a 17.30 inch stance width wide enough for a board like that?

what stance width is commonly used for a board with those dimensions?

I tried to increase the stance width some more but that wasn't comfortable,

is that just because the upper part of these Raichle boots are much more tilted (and made out of stiffer material) than my old tourski ones were?

thanks on beforehand, Willem

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If you cannot get rid of lift/cant because it's inbuilt get rid of the bindings I'd say, but watch carefully because even new bindings like F2 have them built in, but they're removable if you screw the blocks off. F.A.S.T. is not as nice as Intec because you can have snow in the holes of your heels and then it won't engage. Cants / lifts will give you a more old school knees together stance. On a narrow race deck I sometimes use some lift but no cants but if I can get away with riding with no lift and cant at all because it's more natural I think.

Stance: always start with the center holes. Then try to figure out if you need more stability or more manouvrability. Wider is more stable.

Boots: what kind of mechanism is on the heel. Spring? Simple walk/ride mechanism? Five position lever (teardrop shaped switch with another switch that can go over it)? 'Freecarvers' like to have more travel in their boots than most stock boots will deliver, the heel mechanism is important for it. I have the same shells and I think if it has a nice fit for your foot it has the possibility to be a very nice boot.

Board: never heard of it!

Verdict: nice boots, board will probably be OK, bindings I would change them probabily if cants can't be removed.

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All systems are interchangable I believe, but you must doublecheck before trying to put in a walk/comfort/race switch in from the SB-shell type of Deeluxe/Raichle boots. I think they're the same for every Deeluxe/Raichle boot though. Donor boots could be found at Marktplaats, otherwise I'd advice to ask at http://www.soulboarders.nl . Deeluxe can help you with spare parts, maybe Topsurf Vinkenveen too.

The RAB is actually the worst option, followed by the simple lever. The 5 position lever is pretty good already because it lets you set the angle as well as give you a 2 position swing in comfort mode, but getting a BTS would probabily even be better. I got more flex out of the 5 pos switch in my AT shell than other people with the soft BTS on a SB shell I noticed at the ECS, so I think the AT shell is by design a better flexing boot and will also augment the BTS better.

Geting rid of the RAB would be my strong advice. The idea was already not perfect, but the execution was bad also. I don't see it anymore on their newer boots, so probabily Deeluxe knows it sucks too ;)

The difference between SB and AT is the easiest to recognize if you watch at the part where your ankle pivots. It's round with SB shells and shaped like a half moon on AT boots. I think the current T225 and T325 are SB shells and the T700 is a AT shell.

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Thanks! I'm going to order one right away,

what is best if one lives in Holland,

ordering from bomberonline and take the shipping-hassle for granted

or is there an alternative closer by? Germany?

Are you an american based in the Netherlands or dutch like myself

by the way

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BTS would be the optimum solution, but it's pricey compared to the 5 pos lever. If getting the 5 pos lever would prove to be too much of a hassle I would get the BTS without hesitation. Proven concept.

See that you get the correct springs, they have different colors with different resistance.

Maybe I want a pair of 5 pos levers too.

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Before you go spending all this money, why not try the boots as they are? I've been riding with the RAB system for close to 10 years (first 325LTD and now AF700) and have never wanted more flex. Everyone is different and to immediately condemn equipment for someone that hasn't even tried it is inappropriate in my opinion. Riding is about having fun, not geeking out on equipment.

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Aren't we telling him to just use the F.A.S.T. if he can get rid of the cants and to just ride the board? Both aren't considered very good but if you start out it will be a nice setup from which you can progress. But the boots are essential in my opinion. He already got a pretty nice shell but I think the RAB will limit him.

A recreational carver will benefit a lot from more flex. If you get a lot of days on the mountain or if you have a lot of power in your legs and like a more racy style you might get away with having boots that do not flex as much. People even put on ski boots because hardboots are not stiff enough, but that's a bad advice for the average carver.

I've seen people struggle hard without proper boots or bootflex, never because of the board itself or the cheapness of their bindings.

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...somebody helped me with putting some extra screw thread on the king pin which runs through the center of the RAB (I read that option somewhere) and must say it helps. You can actually stretch your front leg a little bit more, not much but still.

Next thing I'm going to do is skip the theoretics and buying of xtra stuff and start practicing on a slope!

thanks again for the input.

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Aan board :biggthump Good to have another fellow carving member.

I'll let you guys know on my next visit. Totally screw up on the last one not knowing u guys have Landgraaf.

Genieten met de verse paling en haaring, so lekker en ook the pannekoek in scheveningen, yummy.

Cheers

Roy

thanks!

I'm sure you can get some haring in the Holland House during the Olympics! any snow yet in Vancouver?

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