unitednihilists Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Jack, I'm not sure where and how you have calculated "d" or "e" but be careful as to how you apply those calculations to find "r". The formula for "r" is correct but I think you may be a little off with both "d" and "e". You are calculating "d" by taking the average of the nose and tail width then subtracting that measurement from the waist width, then taking half of that difference. That length may not fall on the circle in which you are trying to find the radius. There is another way you can measure this without averaging anything. Simply mearsure a length along the sidecut between the return radii of both the nose and tail. This is "e". Then measure the greatest distance from the edge of your board to line "e". This measurement is "d". It must be done at the midpoint of "e". This can easily be done by using a known lengthed straight edge for "e" then measuring "d" in the middle of "e". You can then use r = d/2 + e2/8d and it will be true. If you need to see the geometric interpretation of this I will eventually send it to you.Good Luck I just "did" algebra and I'm pretty sure I got the right answer. Unbelievable. If the high school math teacher could see me now. Thanks for the info guys! It was a big help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 that's interesting. I never woulda thought that any board manufacturer would make multi-radial sidecuts. but now that i think of it, it makes sense. Easy. Look at Magne Traction, for a start. EDIT: Ugh, I wish I looked at the dates, first because just now I realized this is a necrothreadding. Pls do disregard my post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertAlexander Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 (edited) I use (4 x bsquared) plus (csquared) all divided by 8b ........... where c equals the cord of the arc and b equals the max/midpoint distance of the arc. b being d and c being e from prior posts Edited January 27, 2013 by RobertAlexander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 I little info on how sidecuts work <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/uE1YdDj_L0o" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/hFjq741bkbI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtslalom Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 FASNTASTIC Video Sean Martin. I learned alot of information about the manufacturing of sidecuts. I did know that there are variable sidecuts but didn't really understand how manufacturers went about establishing them.Your demonstration totally explained the basic concept on how it is done. So with that being said any explanation of finding a sidecut radius that I have offered is purely based on one particular sidecut radius and not any type of variable or progressive one. To be honest I couldn't tell you if any of my own boards have a variable, progressive or just a single sidecut radius. All I know is I like to turn them. Thanks for the video though, it really helps me understand what is going on and how vsr has an affect riding styles and vice versa. It also says to me; when questioning your sidecut radius, call the manufacturer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwavedave Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Moving the bindings back will always help keep the nose up in deep snow; that said the difference in the feel of the board from a stance shift towards the tail will be greater on shapes with more taper or progressive/multi-radial side cuts.I always play with stance position on various boards to find the "sweet spot". I have found the same thing with the new VSR shapes in that I have had to experiment more with my stance to find the "sweet spot" best for my riding. With the old-style symetrical sidecut the centered stance always seemed to work best for general carving. Sean's demo explains the concepts involved very well. Thanks Sean. I found with my 180 kessler I had to move my stance all the way forward to find the sweet spot for my more "relaxed" style of recreational riding. I suspect they are designed to be ridden with a more aggressive forward leaning stance (long nose), but it does have a sweet spot. This makes me wonder about the multi-radius side-cut and if it is more likely to have a centered sweet spot compared to a progressive variable side-cut? I can't wait to try some some of the new boards at SES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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