Edge Sharpness

[rikytheripster]

Have recently filed and polished my edges but they still dont feel that sharp, any ideas?

I did the fingernail test and some was shaved off, but it did not come off as easily as on my Prior WCR which was tuned (assume ground) at 90 deg at a local shop.

I did my coiler all mtn with a 1 deg base and 2 deg side, with an Fk MT701 multituner using the std file and red, blue & black diamond stones. Process was:

1) Base edge then side edge as below

2) Black / Blue diamond to De-Burr / Remove Rust.

3) File edges.

4) Polish edges with Black (rough), Blue then Red (Fine) stones until edges are smooth to the touch and eye.

Took about 30min each edge, used water also.

The problem could be that when i filed the base with the mill file not much material seemed to be removed - i put this down to the base being too high, ie the tool rubbing on the base instead of the edge.

I have read past threads where the edges were so sharp people had apparently cut themselves, how sharp is sharp enough?

I am wary of taking too much material off the edge so dont want to file too often.

[queequeg]

http://skivisions.us/1693.html

[cail]

http://skivisions.us/1693.html

i picked that up from Reliable Racing. Works really well... i need to upgrade to the stones though.

[queequeg]

i picked that up from Reliable Racing. Works really well... i need to upgrade to the stones though.

The rubys are definitely a step up from the files that it comes with.

[pebu]

I have read past threads where the edges were so sharp people had apparently cut themselves,

It's actually not that hard. I'm willing to bet with the edge you tuned now you could get a cut if you mishandled your board.

Base high is definitely a common problem. 2 of my boards have it. The bases are flat, but there is a 1 degree bevel (coincident with the 1 degree edge bevel) that goes in about a quarter inch past the edge material. What I'd suggest is get the base bevel to where you want it (perhaps after a flattening) and then don't touch it unless it needs it. If you get a burr or something take a diamond over it a few times, but you don't need to sharpen from both sides.

[kmartshopper]

A good trick is to mark your edges with a sharpie marker, then when you touch them up with a diamond stone, you see if you are really getting them. This will help see if you are base high.

Don't file the base edge after a good grind and bevel set... you will always end up riding base high without much to do but get reground. Just do the sides. After a while, especially if you ride woods or something - you'll get enough removal of material from the point of the edge that you have to file to get it to a point again. If the edge is smooth though... just not super sharp, this probably isn't the case yet (it will feel rough after it get's whacked up enough... even after deburring).

________

Two And A Half Men Dicussion

[Bricky]

1. I would not buy the Skivisions tool because because it only lets you go to -3 side (87), which is net -2 if you bevel the base to -1. Some other brands permit up to -6 (84). I ride on Eastern U.S. hardpack and ice between powder dumps.

2, You need to use a magic marker on the edge before tuning so you will know when you have actually file the whole edge to the apex or point. Try a red one. when the red is gone, you should be sharp.

3. You may need to start with a Panzar file when changing edge angles to really get some sidewall and metal removed with less work. If you don't see a bunch of sidewall removal, you may have a problem getting to the edge metal. (Edit, you can use a sidewall planer, too.)

Bricky

[pebu]

When changing edge angles a panzar would be alright, but be real real careful. They bite off alot.

I'd suggest getting a sidewall planer also. I really wasn't getting much sharpening on the sides until I got that and took the sidewalls down a bit.

[Bricky]

CAIL,

Unless you have tried a smaller angle, you can't be sure you wouldn't like it more. Try it!!

Net -3 is reasonable, but the Skivisons tool won't let you do it.

Buy a tool that gives you the maximum # of options.

BRICKY

[cail]

that's true i havent tried a smaller angle. i might in the future... but for now i'm happy with 0/0

[willywhit]

that's true i havent tried a smaller angle. i might in the future... but for now i'm happy with 0/0

Cail,

I like your style. 90* edges and flat bindings.

Same here.

Does it feeeeel sharp when you get on the edge hard ?

No ?

Then you need to send that board to PTC right away.

getting settled in down in Tejas Colin ?

Sharp !

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[madlibs69]

Only file the base edge after a grind. Stoning to debur the base edge is fine. Black dmts will have potential to change the bevel so use a guide. Stay away from cheap bevel guides. SVST all the way. Use lazer cut files. And def. trim down the sidewall!

[felix]

If you want really good edges get the following on top of what you have:

Fixed Angle with clamps (allways better than any tools)

Icecut Hard Metal File (yeah they run expensive but are abolutely worth it - all other hard metall/Wolfram - files are produced at Icecut AFAIK and will only set you back even more) - NO need to use a diamond file before filing anymore, and much cleaner cut. File holds for ages as its so hard.

Ceramic Stone to use after the fine diamond - Using a ceramic stone aligns small particles on you edge into the right direction - meaning your edge stays sharp for a longer time.

[iridevt]

Ok, I hand tune snowboards for a living in the winter. There are many good tips in this thread, but one subtle but important bit has not been discussed yet. It has to do with base bevel. If your favorite tune tech has every put your board across a belt you will never be able to keep a very sharp edge regardless of how much you side file, unless the base bevel was then ground flat on the stone grinder. This requires time and effort and a passion for perfection that most techs don't have or understand. The attention to detail at this stage is the difference. Base bevel must be cut with a flat chrome file (ice cut) in a proper guide (svst). There is no other way to do it right. Base belting leaves a rounded profile to the base edge because the belt runs on a rubber contact wheel. This is great for jibby slide handrail rider, bad for carving ripper groomer rider.