F9 Driver Posted March 25, 2004 Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 Ok, I have spent the money on great equipment, my recent board purchase came with the best tune I have ever encountered on a snowboard (thank you CMC "Curt"), now who can recommend a tuning shop in the Denver/Summit County area for future reference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostertwo Posted March 25, 2004 Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 Jim Dines is very well known for his tuning expertise. He owns Precision Sports in Frisco (and Keystone). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted March 25, 2004 Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 how about in SoCal? anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jagger Posted March 25, 2004 Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 You could learn to tune your own stuff, it aint hard.:p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nekdut Posted March 25, 2004 Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 Where can we find a decent stone grinder in So cal? I'd do it myself, but Wintersteigers are a bit expensive =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted March 25, 2004 Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 Originally posted by Jagger You could learn to tune your own stuff, it aint hard.:p base grind is a bit difficult Ive always tuned my own boards... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F9 Driver Posted March 27, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2004 Thanks for the Frisco advice. Tune it myself? I would never let an beginner touch my board, maybe if I could practice on yours first?:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jagger Posted March 27, 2004 Report Share Posted March 27, 2004 Neckdut I had a board I recently purchased used that needed a grind, not having easy access to a shop to have it ground here is how I did it. 1. use a straight edge to find out wher the base was high 2.start out sanding these areas with an automotive sanding sponge Med/coarse (If your sponge gets covered with wax & ptex boil it for 3/4 mins in mildly soaped water then rinse and wring dry) 3.periodicaly check with your straight edge to make sure you don't take too much base. 4.Graduate through finer and finer grades of aluminum oxide sand paper 180,240,320,400,600,etc,etc (I finished with 1000 dry next 1000 wet then 1500 dry 1500 wet then scotch brite to remove any hairs) This is a little excessive you could probably get away with just going down to say 600 grit. The whole process with wax, scrape and new edging after took about an hour. Er that is an easy hour working like I was being paid hourly. After doing this said board seemed very fast and rides very well. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jagger Posted March 27, 2004 Report Share Posted March 27, 2004 Originally posted by F9 Driver Tune it myself? I would never let an beginner touch my board, maybe if I could practice on yours first?:D You gotta learn some where! Just read as much as you can about it and maybe get to know a shop tech or two so you can pick their brains about ideas, most of these guys will help you out if they can knowing your gonna tune your own gear whether they help you or not. Oh if you're a desk jockey with no experience working with your hands maybe start out with real easy stuff like sawing wood and pounding a few nails to hang a picture or whatever.:p Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDZal Posted March 28, 2004 Report Share Posted March 28, 2004 Edgeworks in Denver is the only place I've been to that has consistently done excellent work. They're on Broadway a block south of Gart. I took my BS to Edgeworks recently for a stonegrind because it had a huge ridge running down the middle of the base (I guess the edges just got worn down by previous owner). When I came to pick it up, it hadn't been done yet. So the guy got to work on it, and I left. I came back later and he was still working on it. He said he'd given it 80 passes and it was basically flat. I think most shops would've made a few hard passes and left the base all hairy and probably not flat. Anyway, I was very impressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDZal Posted March 29, 2004 Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 I'm not sure what he did, I know little about grinding machines, but he said 80 passes and it really seems to be an excellent grind. The grind didn't quite get down to the edges, so it was mainly that big ridge that got removed. There are a couple of spots along the edge that the grinder didn't reach, but nothing I'm worrying about. Unless this board is seriously warped in such a way as to cause a 3-4 inches wide, few millimeters tall ridge down the middle of the base, there should be plenty of material left. There's a dimple in the middle of the base and if I press on it the p-tex seems to be pretty thick (compared to one on my Donek which is about as thick as a ziploc bag). The edges retained their base bevel of about 1.5 degrees, but I'm happy with the improvement so no complaints. Maybe next time I'll send my s*&t to Vermont 'cause all I need is about a grind a year. I have for the most part given up on letting someone else tune my equipment. I even thought about getting some flattening and structuring tools myself, but I'm unsure of how well that works. I do have a nice collection of hair-removal tools (for the boards - mine's already falling out anyway and I'm only 23). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 OK..didnt want to start a new thread, SO: first...anyone know of a good shop in SoCal that can do a base grind? Someone who truly knows what theyre doing? second...Ive always used drip-style P-tex...but now, reading at Tognar, I see that this might not be the best? what do you experts use/recommend? third...base cleaner? Ive messed around with "goo-gone" on junker boards and it seems to work well, but the base always looks a little dry after. Waxing seems to cure this. Is that stuff a bad idea? 4th...what is a "hot scrape"? Im assuming it means warming the bass and then doing a normal scrape job. removes old wax layers? lastly...if the drip method for P-tex isnt a good idea...do you really need a specialized tool like the one at tognar? Im pretty particular about this stuff, and I want to do it as well as I possibly can (keeping in mind that I dont have access to a shop really) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfell Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 The Racer's Edge in Breck. The guyes there have done extensive work with the U.S. Snowboard Team both domestically and abroad. They know how to make a board fast. If you are in the Utah area Rentstall at Park City Mt. Resort does great work on boards also, Lats who works there did a few of the top riders boards for the Olympics and Fawcett would send him boards to do in the pre-season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted April 3, 2004 Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 Thanks for the response phill, but: Originally posted by D-Sub OK..didnt want to start a new thread, SO: first...anyone know of a good shop in SoCal that can do a base grind? Someone who truly knows what theyre doing? I guess I could ship a board to someone, but Id rather not do that if possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F9 Driver Posted April 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2004 Thanks for all of the advice guys. I really appreciate it. Jagger, I have been pounding nails to get started. Right and left thumbs now broken, go figure.......:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.