Tips for a beginner? (binding tweaks, technique)

[fluxgame]

I started out this season as a never-ever snowboarder. I knew I wanted to get into carving so I started out on an alpine setup (Burton Amp 6.0 160, TD2's, Raichle 224's). I took a regular snowboard lesson to get me up and running. I set my stance width at the board's recommended 17" 25mm back (my shoulders are 16" wide and floor to knee-cap is 18.5". Narrow shoulders, long legs? 17" seemed like an OK compromise. though I actually discovered this to be a cm narrower than advertised, the holes in the 3D plate for the TD2 don't seem to be centered.) And, given I was going to be with a bunch of freestylers, I set my binding angles to 15 in back, 30 in front (what I read were typical "beginner" angles for freestyle). Which resulted in a little overlap, but I figured I wouldn't be laying over carves my first couple days out. So, three days on the snow now. I can manage greens without any problems and easier blues without too many issues. If I get up any speed at all I find it next to impossible to skid a turn with this board, it just wants to carve. On the steeper blue sections I find myself traversing the slope and skidding a little to control my speed and then carving a really sharp, fast and--might I mention--panicky turn at the side of the trail. Sometimes it works, sometimes I can't commit to the edge transition and end up turning uphill instead and sitting down in the snow at the side of the trail. On one occasion that I did manage to commit (albeit rather late), I had to make a really, really sharp turn. I think I experienced boot-out and I ended up cart-wheeling and tweaking my knee pretty bad. Not fun.

So, my questions. Is there a better way of controlling speed on steeper sections? Was I correct to start off with shallower binding angles? Should I transition quickly to steeper angles that avoid overlap (I can manage 45 front and back)? Is there a resource I should have read that would have answered all these questions (I've been through the Carver's Almanac and all the how-to stuff on Bomber Online...)? Am over-thinking this and I'm just experiencing the learning curve and need to get out on the snow some more?

Hopefully this post doesn't sound complete clueless to you all...

[pebu]

Definately overthinking it. If it's your first season and you're linking turns and everything already you're doing alright. Just spend some time on the snow, let it all come together.

[Guest 4000]

Boot overhang sucks whether you're riding a 145 lunch tray or a 180 glorified ski for all sorts of reasons. I don't think there are any set rules for angles in terms of beginner or expert but I'd at the very least start rotating those bindings until the boot caps/tips are directly over the edge. Some of you technical guys here might agree or disagree but I've always felt that I achieved less edge pressure when my toes hung over the edge.(Even if I'm turning at shallow angles). It feels to me as if I'm using the entire front part of my feet as opposed laying all my weight down right to the toes.(Vice versa for "heel hang")

I also read the "teaching section" here and although the terminology get confusing to me, "Cross" . . . "Through" . . .and one more(I forget), it all makes sense. I think it's important as a beginner to get your board feeling "light".(The teaching sections describes it differently but this is the way the board feels to me) Read through that section once more . . . it describes the turns much better than I ever could. If you get your turns going and start working your legs, the tail of the board will feel start feeling "light" during transition; the tail of the board will actually lift from the snow. . . Pressure your board enough at the end of the turn and the entire board will lift out of the snow. I think this is important concept to hone in order to turn/control/stop your board precisely at any time. If you feel as if you can turn/control/stop your board precisely at any time, you'll rarely feel panicky. Practice this this at comfortable speeds on comfortable trails. Make short tuns and long turns. Exaggerate the motions so that you crouch real low going into a turn and nearly jump up straight transitioning into the next turn. . . then crouching real low again.

Now this is just speculation based on what you wrote. . . But I am willing to bet that the reason your board feels "carvey" at speed is because you get "tail heavy" at speed. When anybody feels that they are tickling with their personal "unchartered speed zone", they tend to lean way back and put all their weight to their rear foot. It's a great way to dig in a carve but with the tail end of the board so heavy like that with your weight so far back, you're out of position to drive your board into the next turn. . . and you won't be able to skid out to a stop either. You're basically stuck in that way back "carved out" position. Get a feel for the "light tail" transitions at slower speeds while exaggerating the motions and increase your speed in increments. If you feel yourself leaning back and reaching for snow with your hands, get back down to the speed where you had good form, exaggerate the motions, and get that board feeling "light" again.

Hope this helps . . .

[Terryw]

Fill out your profile so we know where you are riding. Most people on this board would be happy to take a look at your setup and give a few tips to help you on your learning curve if we happen to be at the same place at the same time. Check the Ride Board section of this site for other carvers riding in your area.

Failing that, have you read Jack's info on setting up your plate bingings?

http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/setup.cfm

A wider stance might help you feel more balanced on your board. Are your TD-2's set up correctly? You usually want to start with a little lift on the toes of your front foot and a little lift at the heel of the rear boot to start. This would allow a slightly wider stance with comfort. Do you know if you have canted your bindings? If you are experiencing boot out, than it is time to start shifting to higher angles.

Mostly , you just need to ride. Hook up with an experienced rider to eliminate any of the obvious set up problems, then go ride.

[fluxgame]

Thanks for all the input, guys, I really apprieciate it! Let's see, some responses... I'm riding up at Wachusett, in central MA. I posted up on the Ride Board a couple weeks ago, but haven't been able to meet up with anyone yet. I just posted again and hopefully I'll be able to get some on-the-slope help.

I got my bindings used and they just came with 0 degree cant disks. I ordered one 3 degree disk (all I can afford for the moment), but am waiting on that, so I'm flat for the time being. Just experimenting on the carpet in my living room, when I set my angles to where there's no overlap, even my relatively narrow stance feels sort of unnatural. I'll have to try it out on the slope and see what happens. I'll make sure to bring my allen key next time out and play the adjustment game.

I've definitely read through the teaching sections a few times. Cross-over and cross-under make sense to me, though I can only seem to manage cross-over right now. Cross-through on the other hand just kinda baffles me. I think I need to see it.

I don't think I'm leaning back on my tail too much, but I could be wrong. I'm a pretty experienced skier, so I'm comfortable with the whole idea of keeping my weight forward and in my lesson the instructor commented that I was doing a particularly good job of keeping my weight in the right place. Entirely possible I'm back-seating it when I get uncomfortable though, I'll have to pay closer attention next time I'm out.

Anyway, thanks again!

[Hugh]

Flux,

Welcome to the BOL world of carving

Increase your binding angles so that you have no boot overhang, your heel and toe just touch of the edges of your board (centered). 45/40 or somewhere around there...

Hard boots, stiff bindings and an alpine board feels really weird when you first try it. Try out the steeper Green runs and easier Blue runs to get you started. Don't explode early in the season trying to force it, hook up with some fellow carvers in your area and have fun.

--Hugh

[Terryw]

If you are not sitting back on the board, and you still can't get out of a carve, you might try shifting your bindings slightly foward. This will help you to initiate turns. Of course, tecnique might be the problem :rolleyes:, and only time and effort will fix that!