willywhit Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 last run yesterday, cruising through the lift line, some jibber put his edge to my sidewall and put a nasty gash in my new Coiler. Didn't even realize it until I was on the chair and looked down. I'll post a pic. Curious how to repair this. No structural damage but it ripped the topsheeet glass up and gashed the sidewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpalka Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 I'm curious to hear others' recommendations. I did my first two-part epoxy job a week ago, and so far it's holding up very well. I covered the board/base/edge around the area with masking tape and used the strongest two-part epoxy that's waterproof that I could find locally. If there is no structural damage, though, you may consider just using an exacto knife to cut off the topsheet flap so that it doesn't tear any further and leave as-is.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skategoat Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 Make sure you use the slow-cure epoxy not the 1 hour stuff. To damaged areas, I apply it sparingly and then hit the area with a heat gun. The heat thins the epoxy and draws it into fibres and core. Let it cure at least 48 hours before riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willywhit Posted March 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 thanks guys. I emailed Coiler to get thier take on the repair. I'd still like to hear what did or didn't work tho. Coilers are a different beast, luckily I'm well versed in fiberglass and epoxy. I can see a little wood in there through the gashed sidewall, it's in the sun getting dry right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpalka Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 Cool -- yes, like skategoat pointed out and I forgot to -- I used the slow-curing stuff as well, I was told to stay away from any 5-minute stuff. I rigged a hair dryer over it and let it run for the first few hours... As for leaving it in the sun, watch out -- lots of people will tell you that the sun and UV will damage your board, I got a lot of "flack" last year in the "natural hotbox" thread :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willywhit Posted March 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 do you have a "before" pic of the damage, tom ? they're tools not jewels, gotta keep telling myself that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pebu Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 Even if there isn't any apparent damage I'd probably put just a thin coat of epoxy over it just to keep it from peeling back at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpalka Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 Here you go -- it's a 6 inch separation of topsheet from the edge. When the board is warm the gap isn't there, I only noticed it after riding it. Talked to Chris Prior about it and it seems like it's probably caused by my buttering the tip into switch (see this movie at 0:57 mark)... so definitely my own issue and not with the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dragon fly jones Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 So sad about Dimebag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willywhit Posted March 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 tom, ain't nuthin' but UMA COISA. Você sabe ? I just wanna use the right clamps,glue and heat.Thanks again for the feedback. Dimebag rocks on ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubz Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 Willy, Palka is on with the vises. Be sure that when you use the epoxy, try to dam it if you can to keep from getting on the topsheet and other areas. Use wood blocks to get even distribution of pressure. I used West systems for the stuff I did this summer and its not going anywhere. Durable as all get up. I use the 105 resin and 207 hardener. I ahve a contact if you need it, he is in NH. Make sure you do it above 60 degrees F and its worth buying the pumps that go with it. I think he may even throw them in for free. The pumps measure the proper amounts for you. So no weighing involved. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor VonRippington Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 First... track down the jibberjabber who did this... he can help with the repair Grab him by the scalp and smooth any rough spots out with his front teeth Then fill any low spots by scrapping his nose across the damaged area Last, pound his forehead into the damaged area to get good compression Optional step: throw useless jibtool onto busy street That should do it! Do I sound bitter?... (had to work today) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big canuck Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 Die jibber die!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willywhit Posted March 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 thanks greg, good info on the proper marine rated adhesive.We repaired a kiteboard last summer with a similiar impact gash and the marine stuff is tough as nails. As far as tracking down the culprit, I was looking for him up top but knew it was an honest mistake.It happened so fast. I was just gliding through line, catching up to my buddy and as he swung his board 90*, it bumped me and I just kept going. I figgered it hit my boot. Good thing he wasn't around when I initially saw the damage tho. I was swingin' mad. bruce is the man, here's his timely response: A good quality epoxy of almost any type will work. Just don't use 5 minute stuff as it gets real brittle. Just clean up the nasty stuff and try to get the glue in as far as possible. No real prep is needed and the only thing which may not stick down is the topsheet as it has a fleece backing and if peeled off the plastic gets exposed and nothing sticks to that stuff. I'm guessing it won't be a concern though. Try to get it to a state where the wood is sealed as that is the main concern. Clamp it during the hardening with solid blocks on each side and put a release material on the blocks ( wax paper or saran wrap) so they won't stick to the repair. Mix the resin exactly as described on the package, I mean exactly!. If you think more hardener will make it harder, you'll be in for a big surprise. Good luck, BV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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