Intec heel installation

[bumpyride]

Just about to install a bunch of Intec heels on boots. Anything I should watch out for aside from making sure they're following the correct plane, and will a 1/4" bit suffice for the 6.5mm recommended or should I get a 6.5mm bit?

I have 8 heels to put in, and don't particulaly want any miscues.

Thanks

[Jrobb]

Just about to install a bunch of Intec heels on boots. Anything I should watch out for aside from making sure they're following the correct plane, and will a 1/4" bit suffice for the 6.5mm recommended or should I get a 6.5mm bit?

I have 8 heels to put in, and don't particulaly want any miscues.

Thanks

get a 6.5 bit.

J

[Pat Donnelly]

Hole size of 0.250" versus 0.256", drilling in plastic . . .come on. I used a 1/4" drill bit and just reamed it a touch. Worked well on two sets of boots.

Use stainless, hex head bolts. Look on Alpinecarving for size and sources.

[pebu]

Use the right bit. It's easy to round over heads and then it's hard to get them out. Also, you're probably well aware, but use good t-nuts. And yeah, Alpinecarving is a good resource for good info.

[pebu]

Hole size of 0.250" versus 0.256", drilling in plastic . . .come on. I used a 1/4" drill bit and just reamed it a touch. Worked well on two sets of boots.

Use stainless, hex head bolts. Look on Alpinecarving for size and sources.

I think he meant bit being driver.

And besides, 6 thou is quite a bit.

[bumpyride]

Being a contractor the fudge factor is usually not that big a deal and when you compare 1/4" to .2535, I'd normally just ream it. I think that in this case with a bunch to do (8 heels and maybe more) I'll go for the right bit. Pat usually I'm with you, but for the number that I'm looking at, I'll make the drive.

T-nuts came with the F2 Challenge Comps as well as the screws. Probably should look for stainless, and do have a commercial source that doesn't "screw" you over.

I'm going into several different Raichle models for different people, so I don't want any liability problems from reaming either from the boots or by an attorney.

Thanks Guys

[Fleaman]

IIRC my lemans boots already had a hole in them for the intec cable. It was tight but I pushed it through (after I spit on it ) No problems with the operation.

[bumpyride]

Things I found out while installing intec heels.

1. 6.5mm drill bits are a bitch to find, especially on the weekend.

2. 33/128's are 1/128 larger in diameter than a 1/4" bit.

3. The difference between a 6.55mm bit and a 33/128's bit is .0043", and 33/128 decimal equivalent is .2578, and 1/4" is .25 and 6.5mm is .2535. The 1.4 is closer to 6.55mm than is the 33/128 by .0008

4. .0035" in plastic is nothing to worry about. Machine threads in metal would be a definite difference.

5. Hot plastic is much nicer to work with than cold plastic.

6. I'm impatient, but careful.

Here's the technique:

1. Remove old heels (duh).

2. Eye-ball the way the screws go in on the intec heel to get an idea of which plane you want the drill bits to follow.

3. If no t-nuts in heel take 3/32 drill bit and let the drill bit take it's own course through the heel, following the old screw hole. Then do the same with a 5/32, then a 7/32 and finally a 1/4. This keeps a guy from installing it crookedly.

4. Ream the hole slightly from the bottom of the boot towards the inside, pulling out just a little fine material from the lip of the inside of the boot (no big curls of plastic coming out).

5. Get out the blow dryer and heat the inside of the heel (heck of a difference while placing the t-nuts.

6. Once the t-nuts are started straight, take a wooden dowel whittled down the the size of the head of the t-nuts and pound the t-nut to flush. Don't do this on your granite countertop (I didn't-I said I was careful).

7. Make sure you apply enough downward pressure as you tighten the screws to prevent stripping.

8. Start all the screws before tightening any 1 screw, and then proceed to tighten all screws and look inside the boot to make sure the t-nuts have seated themselves flush. Tighten till flush and cranking pretty hard on the screwdriver. It also pays to have a fresh phillips #2.

9. Retighten the next day.

Sorry if this was a bit too detailed, but it seems like the best way to do it without a jig, and might help anyone interested in changing to intec.

Also am coming up with a way to convert F2 4 x 4 metal plates to fit a 3 hole Burton with a minimum of modification, and will even be able to mount 4 screws into most positions on the Burton pattern. Will send photos when done.

[Pat Donnelly]

The problem I ran into was one of the four screws on each (non-Intec) heel had rusted and siezed onto the T-nut. I ended up having to drill out one screw from each heel which was a pain as the T nut kept spinning. When I installed the Intec heels, I ordered stainless bolts from McMasters. The 4mm hex head allows for a little more torque than a phillips head, but you still need to check your heels for tightness from time to time with eithe type.

Converting mm to inches: multiply by .03937 or divide by 25.4

[bumpyride]

Pat,

Been rounding to .039 for mm to inches. Maybe should have carried a few more decimal places out, but close enough for my product. Here's the pictures of the F2 Aluminum plates (4x4) converted to 3 hole Burton. Also listed in another thread.

I was able to get 6 positions with minimal material removal. 4 positions have 4 screws into the Burton pattern and 2 positions have 3 screws into it. Could have had 2 more positions, but couldn't go either forward or back so it seemed silly to do.