Guest ult Posted February 27, 2007 Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 OK...I've got a few minor problems but I wanted to ask and get some advice. I've got an old pair of T1's that I want to mount onto my Lib Tech Litagator. I'd like to try and mount it 'flat'...with no can't or bumpers...where might I get the screws that fit the bevel of the binding and also the Lib Tech binding inserts? The local hardware store doesn't cut it. The cant screws fit the inserts, but not the binding, and the screws that attach the bindings to the cants fit the bindings well, but not the boards inserts. I need M6 hardware with the binding 'bevel' on the head...if 'bevel' is the word I'm looking for. If I do go with the cants where can I get new bumpers, since my old ones are toast. I worry that if I mount the bindings on cants, with no bumpers, it'll be to much pressure on the four mounting points and I'll eventually rip the inserts out essentially. I think that's basically what happened to my old deck. I didn't see any bumpers on Bombers online store...but maybe I missed them? Any and all ideas are welcome...and just for the pain of having to read my long winded question...here's a little bonus for your pain. A little hard booted jibbing: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackDan Posted February 28, 2007 Report Share Posted February 28, 2007 Check www.mcmastercarr.com, or check www.olander.com, or as a last resort, call Mr Metric (www.mrmetric.com). You can search and order on line from McMasterCarr, you can search online at Olander Company but will have to call them to order, and you'll have to call Mr Metric for info and ordering. Olander and is about the cheapest, and they and Mr Metric are local to me, and I've had reasonably good results with all three for unique metric bolts and screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyzcanuck Posted February 28, 2007 Report Share Posted February 28, 2007 I'd like to try and mount it 'flat'...with no can't or bumpers... If I'm reading your post correctly, you want to mount the binding plate directly to the board using an M6 flat head cap screw... DON'T TRY THAT! The TD1 was never designed to be used that way and I doubt you'll find an M6 FHCS with a head that is large enough to not slip through the curved slot of the binding plate. To run the bindings 'flat' you need to buy a couple of "0" (zero) degree mounting disks (see this link) and the appropriate bumpers (see this link). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ult Posted February 28, 2007 Report Share Posted February 28, 2007 If I'm reading your post correctly, you want to mount the binding plate directly to the board using an M6 flat head cap screw... DON'T TRY THAT! The TD1 was never designed to be used that way and I doubt you'll find an M6 FHCS with a head that is large enough to not slip through the curved slot of the binding plate.To run the bindings 'flat' you need to buy a couple of "0" (zero) degree mounting disks (see this link) and the appropriate bumpers (see this link). Why shouldn't I mount it with out any cant disks? Just wondering. Also what is the difference between the soft-medium-hard bumpers? Which should I use for what? Soft more 'flex' vs hard not so much 'flex'? Thanks for the help and suggestions so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Houghton Posted February 28, 2007 Report Share Posted February 28, 2007 Those of us old enough to remember can tell you the bumpers were a "Bomber Adjustable Damping System" that was optional on the original TD1's. We rode without bumpers, but adding them did take some stress off of the board and made the ride less brittle. I'm sure you could come up with a substitute for them fairly easily, some fairly soft durometer rubber would work and there's lots of that at NAPA, sway bar bushings, end link kits, coil spring seats and so on would be a good source. But to use the Bomber top plate with some other bottom plate, why take the risk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ult Posted February 28, 2007 Report Share Posted February 28, 2007 But to use the Bomber top plate with some other bottom plate, why take the risk? I'd just like to lay the 'top plate' ie...the actual binding...on the board flat...no cant or 'riser' involved. That way I wouldn't get any of that torque developing from the binding plate extending out over the riser/cant. ARCHimedes might have been able to move the world, I'm just worried about pulling my inserts out of my top sheet. Which I seem to have done before with a previous Lib Tech. I'm assuming that the bumpers will help distribute this pressure to where they contact the deck, if I have to use cants/risers, rather then all the force going to the inserts that are holding the riser/cant and hence the binding to the deck. Sorry if my terminology is a bit confusing...I'm a little new to this vocabulary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dold Posted February 28, 2007 Report Share Posted February 28, 2007 The bumpers reduce the pulling force on the insert as you guessed, so if you don't want toe or heel lift, get flat TD-1 disks and the bumpers for that disk (equal heights) of the softness you want. Make sure there is some compression of the bumper as you tighten the binding to the board to pre-load the bumpers. I think 1/16" or so should be good. Reasons for doing it are scratched up topsheet, odd flex pattern, screws that need an extra washer that doesn't fit too good, inability to adjust (rotate) the bindings, and knowing in the back of your mind that you did it weirdly. A bunch of us have extra parts and if you decide to get the parts we'll be happy to look in our junkboxes and try to get you what you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ult Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Reasons for doing it are scratched up topsheet, odd flex pattern, screws that need an extra washer that doesn't fit too good, inability to adjust (rotate) the bindings, and knowing in the back of your mind that you did it weirdly. Reasons for doing...? I'm assuming you meant reasons for using a cant...rather then just trying to mount the T1's directly to the board? With no cant what-so-ever. I'd think having the binding directly on the board would provide a more 'stagle' flew pattern rather then odd. You could still adjust the bindings since the bindings have a big area to spin on the mounting screws. I don't mind the top sheet scratches...hell...you should see my base! The link provided earlier (Thanks) to the bumpers from Bomber seem to show two different width bumpers...and you seem to be saying I need the same width...is this right? I'm still a bit unsure as to why the bumpers are soft/medium/hard...to control how much flex (and hence insert pulling-out force) is given to the leverage of the binding on the cant? I'd liek to minimize taht as much as possible. I guess I should go with a o degree cant and hard bumpers then...and when I attach the bindings to the cant, tighten it down enough to 'preload' the bumpers and give them less 'flex'. Am I envisoning this all right? Again...thanks for all the help folks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dold Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 I think you got it. I meant reasons not to do it the way you were thinking :-) I think when you flex your board, the end of the binding will dig into the topsheet. These plates don't flex. You can buy disks that have 0, 3 or 6 degrees of tilt (toward the nose for rear foor, or tail for front foot). If you have a tilted disk, you need a long bumper and a short one, but if you order the ones for the disk you have, they will be right. They are sized to fit either 0, 3 or 6 degree disks. In the 0 degree set they happen to be the same length. And you are right about the pre-loading of the bumper. At the very least the bumper should touch the board, but I prefer to have some compression going on, to be sure that the bumper is going to help distribute the force as soon as the board begins to flex. At each end of the plate, there are two holes to choose from where the bumper can mount, plus the option of using a flat washer or not with the bumper, to "fine tune" how much the bumper squishes when you tighten the binding to the disk (which is already mounted to the board). Somewhere on this site is a much better write-up on the setting up of these. Let me try to find it. Here it is: http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/setup.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ult Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Thanks Steve. That all makes sense and that mounting link should help me a bit. I think I'd still like to do it with out the cants. My old Burton race plates lay flat and I doubt they flex *that* much more then the bombers. But I'll toss Bomber $80 for new cants and bumpers and see where that gets me. I never mind giving companies that do good work for a good cause a little money. Thanks any and all for the help...once again. Powder or Corduroy (which ever you'd prefer) to you and yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derf Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 My old Burton race plates lay flat and I doubt they flex *that* much more then the bombers. I never rode Bombers nor examined them closely, but I know they are way stiffer than Burton plates because of the way they are built. Burton plates have a plastic covered 1/4" aluminium plate. The disk is plastic (or aluminiumin rare cases), but the place where the disk sit in the binding is plastic. Bomber are all aluminium and the top plate is 3/8" thick (or more) aluminium. So Bombers are WAY stiffer than Burton plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ult Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Yeah...I can see how the bomber binding would be that much more stiffer then an old burton race plate (Like the one in your user image)...I guess what I meant was I don't see putting the binding flat on the board (no cants) being that big a deal...that it wouldn't change the flex pattern of the board that much more then a pair of old burtons mounted flat. I don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted March 2, 2007 Report Share Posted March 2, 2007 ult the problem is you are trying to do something that goes completely against how the bindings are designed to work. I dont even know if the holes line up properly, but again...they were designed a certain way, and could possibly be dangerous if mounted other ways you won't get any feedback from Fin on this except to say DONT DO IT, but if you;re willing to risk equipment failure or possibly more (no idea what could happen) give it a go! I to would rather ride "on" the board instead of "above" it, BUT it has been shown that the lift that a mounting plate creates is beneficial as far as precision and control go. btw...anyone else finding their lines clogged by the .gif in the first post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ult Posted March 2, 2007 Report Share Posted March 2, 2007 Ok...Just sems that they would be nice mounted flat. Bomber (fin's) got another $80 from me and I'll hopefully get to use them before the season's out. Thanks for all the help everyone...and putting up with my constant questions. If my animated gif is messing with people's screen or the formating of the forum...scream and I can edit it out. Just figured I'd toss some entertainment in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted March 2, 2007 Report Share Posted March 2, 2007 I asked because it could just be my end. I blocked the url so its good for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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