diveburt Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Jack, Got into it last year and have a Neidecker fusion as well as a Prior 4WD. Doing OK but find myself, at times, being too far forward and pressuring my left foot ( ride regular) too much leading to a skid rather than a carve. Stance width is about 18 inches and I'm not sure if thats for me. If I focus on bending my rear leg forward to try and tuck it in behind the front one, carves do much better. Problem is, i feel like I am leaning back and it is a hard position to keep so I stay centered on the edge. I do the drills for angulation and hand position but I just can't seem to get the real steep edge angles I see others get. Maybe binding position? Or is just time in the saddle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Tucking your rear knee behind the front one is really not helping your cause. Here's some reading... http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/seperate_zee_knees.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJFluff Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Tucking your rear knee behind the front one is really not helping your cause. Here's some reading...http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/seperate_zee_knees.cfm Im going to have to dissagree with you on that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Hey JJ, the Smithsonian called - they want you to pose for one of those progressive displays of evolution. Somewhere in the middle. :p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willywhit Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Hey JJ, the Smithsonian called - they want you to pose for one of those progressive displays of evolution. Somewhere in the middle. :p bwaa haha - so easy a caveman can do it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqn99ppnPFw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLkWutrhzK4&NR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJFluff Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 If only I was there, in the middle, to help ensure that freeriders around the world didn't take the wrong road to contorted body positioning, bad habits, and restrictive freeriding techniques. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pebu Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 It stands to reason that when his knees are apart he's leaning too far forward and when his knees are together he's leaning too far back, maybe somewhere in between would get his balance right. As far as I'm concerned, you need to be pretty dynamic on the board. Don't get locked into one position, be fluid. Move around. Lean forward to initialize a turn and lean back a abit as you finish it up. You should be always on your toes.. (metaphoricly speaking...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pow Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Something as simple as looking where youre going might be a good solution. Try to pick the spot where you'll be changing edges next. Youve probably heard that before, but it helps to avoid counter-rotation. on heelside, make sure you're pushing with your rear heel rather than pulling with your rear toes. sounds like there would be no difference, but there is. If you feel like your front foot is the only one thats trying to carve, that may be the problem. pushing=carve, pulling=twisting the board and washing out. Don't know the difference? sit in a wheelie office chair with your rear (right) foot down on the ground and your front (left) foot in the air. lift your right foot's toes in the air, as far back as they will go. did you move? probably not. now push yourself backwards using your right heel. thats what you should be doing on your board. It also sounds like you may need to set your bindings back a few cm if you can. there are a few suggestions from a carver still expirimenting with different styles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algunderfoot Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Hey Divebert, Looks like lot's of solid advice and good information is coming your way here. I did want to chime in though, as I was exactly where you were at a few years back. Being a slalom water skier, I realized that your body weight (e.g. position) needs to be fluid through the carve, initializing toward the front foot, finishing toward the rear. Finding the grove will be a little different for each board, as well as each individual. The one thing I don't see mentioned here is edges. I found that edges where my biggest issue, as in, not trusting them, I couldn't get past skidding out on harder / steeper runs. Some tuners like to 'dumb down' tip and tail edges (old ski thinking) to prevent hooking, (e.g. rodeo turns) forget about it, run sharp tip to tail, and learn to ride 'em that way. Bevels are another big area of personnel preference. I have found that for myself, the longer, stiffer boards work better with a sharper bevel. I have gone from 0 (factory) to -1, to -2, to a -1-2-3-2-1 compound edge, to -4, which is what I ride now. Each step up resulted in immediate improvements. I keep the botton at 0, so I can easily maintain this edge myself, with a little stone tuner. To be honest, I believe this to be the single most contributing factor to my "I have arrived" feeling, and total edge confidence, thus allowing me to progress to the show turn style I always aspired too. Suprisingly, I run my Pow stick at the factory '0', and it holds just as well, but it's a noodle compared to my race board, and it doesn't come out to play on hard pack, so it probably isn't a fair comparison. Anyway, good luck, you have plenty to run with... Alg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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