helping soft booters carve?

[Fleaman]

I am trying to get my soft booter friend into carving, short of letting him use my rossi alpine deck with ski boots does anyone have any tips like angles and tecniques to work on with his own freestyle board that help? I moved his bindings to 30 front and 27 rear, and worked on getting low. He improved his riding but still has the wash out hurdle to surpass.

[Stan]

EDGE PRESSURE is a must. Advise your buddy (or buddies) to stick out their bellies on toeside carves, and to stick out their butts on heelside carves. and to get their bellies / butts CLOSER to the ground. It doesn't look OR FEEL as good as a good carve on a proper carving board, but it will get them as close to the "perfect carve" as they ever will on a softies setup . . .

Stan

[LeeW]

Palmer riser helps for softboots. Im considering them, but really dont need 'em since I stll carve anyways in softboots. Just a bit paranoid of haulin' arse and feelin the toe-drag hoping it'd not mess up my line. Otherwise, I just simply switch to my rossi alpine.

[tswei]

http://www.skimetrix.com/

I bought a pair of these for hardboots, but also found it quite useful for soft carving. Two options to use:

1. Put it around the top of the cuff of the boot, just like you would on a hardboot to get a super snug fit and medium response.

2. Thread it thru the back of the highback of the binding, put your foot in as normal, connect the normal straps, then tighten down the Booster strap as a 'third strap'. This keeps the boot against the highback for a hard response.

I tried this because I was having trouble getting enough response out of my Burton Mission bindings and Salomon Malamutes on my Burton Frontier 175. It works wonders, as close to the hardboot feel on a softsetup as I have experienced. If you want to retain some of the surfy feel off piste, just add the Booster on the front binding so you have some play in the back. Best of both worlds and you can always remove it for the really soft days.