Skully
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Posts posted by Skully
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Skully,
Just for the others, who do not have the mashinery, shoot a photo of the counter-bore method. Btw, how you managed to find one with 5/16" or 8mm i/d? Every single one I've seen was bigger... Maybe post the part number?
"Offical" terminology for the tool would be: Interchagneable Pilot Type Counterbore.
Purchased here:
Enco - 5/16" Interchangeable Pilot Counterbore
When simply facing / truing up hangers, the methodology is simple. Remove wheel. Place counterbore over axle with cutting flutes against hanger. Twist a few times with yer hand. (A drop or two of cutting oil or some such liquid is a good idea too.)
If you want to remove larger ammounts of hanger, to shorten it for slalom use for example, then you've gotta remove the hanger from the board / baseplate and chuck it up in a drill or drill press. Toss the counterbore into a vice, or some other sort of device to hold onto it tightly. Line up the drill / hanger / axle / counterbore, add liberal ammounts of oil, start the hanger spinnin' and you can probably figure out the rest....
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And a couple of vids from the race (to keep this thread on track :lol:) featuring first timers, veteran riders, some very fast racers (like Wavechaser and Louis Ricard), and one very FAST bastard (that would be me...).
Fixed that for ya Mig...
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Well done! From that Russian guy, right? I almost snatched that thing... Don't quite know why I didn't.
[sarcasm]
I win! :D
[/sarcasm]
(Like I said, I'm amazed that I was lucky enough to find one...)
FYI there is at least one retail shop in the Great White North that has them in stock:
I was looking into purchasing one from them, but It would have been pricey to have it shipped 'cross the border, and the possibility of customs / import taxes was an even further deterrent. If you REALLY want one, I'm pretty sure they could get it to you a bit cheaper than it would have cost me.
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How you've done that? Just drilled out the bushing seat for the size of the bearing and epoxied it in?
That's pretty much the idea. I now use a combination of JB weld and epoxy.
The Paris was my first experiment with truck modification / improvement. This one was done with epoxy only:
It didn't turn out perfect, but it works, and I've been using it for over two years without any problems.
The first Randal 125 looked like this:
Done with the combination of JB weld and epoxy. I can get you better photos if you're interested...
What about the pivot? Spherical in there too, or just polished, or some sort of ball-pin?Just polished. With the way the pivot only rotates in the pivot cup on reverse kingpin trucks, I personally don't think installing a spherical in the pivot is worth it. At some point I'd like to make delrin pivot cups, but right now I don't have the tools to do it properly...
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I'm stoked you found one Skully!
Next production run of the D.o.G. should be ready sometime in August.
Yeah, I'm a spoiled lil' brat. I couldn't wait until August.
I'm pretty amazed I found one. People like their Fullbags!
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DOG....and if you are a CLASH fan, you just gotta have it! ;-)
Success!
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I'll try to shoot few pics of my drill press method, tonight. Easier than explaining it.
Awesome looking work Boris!
Can't wait to see the pics.
(I use the counter-bore method, so no permanent speed rings, but it gets the job done.)
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So, I'm wondering if anyone has tried the Skandal as a front truck. Both Mig and RF are using the splitfires R3s as a front truck, i'm wondering if with maybe a 50* or even 60* baseplate with the proper wedging and bushing combo if the skandal is a viable front truck.
While I haven't tried a "Skandal" I have tried my own version of the Skandal (the Skully-andal?). My version is cut down like the Skandal, but it has a spherical bearing added to the hanger. It's currently on my GS board. I also have a chopped-down Paris, with a spherical in the hanger that's on the other GS board. I think they perform fine. They're basically the low-tech version of a front Radikal, 161, GOG or Virage (reverse kingpin with a "leading / trailing" axle or whatever you call it.) Not as twitchy as a Bennett, but like I said, I think they work fine as a front truck, and I know some pretty fast skaters who use them as fronts... (I'm not in that "fast" category...)
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My brother has added this to his quiver....well he will be adding it as soon as he figures out how to explain it to his wife....until then I get to joy ride it up and down my block, it sure is fun....
Ride it like it's a RENTAL!
Maybe if you scratch it up a little, it'll be easier for him to explain to the wife: "I got a killer deal on this really nice USED Candyspanks... I couldn't pass it up....."
I just buy lots of gear for my kids. 9-year-olds absolutely NEED precision trucks, right? ;)
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So how can someone mod their bennetts for sphericals?
Or is it better to just get a precision truck?
Keep in mind, between me and my dad we have;
2 pairs of 4.3's
2 pairs of 5.0's
1 pair of 6.0's
...you get the picture.
you take:
trucks + big honkin' drill bits + dremmel tool + spherical bearings + jb weld + epoxy + some time and creativity + the possibility of screwing up the trucks = ghetto spherical Bennett. (Unless you're a machinist with a Machine shop, then it might be easy.)
If you've got $ to throw around and want a precision / spherical truck that will perform like a Bennett, buy a Virage "Vite". Definitely faster and eaiser.
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Something to keep in mind, the greater surface area contacting the road means there is less deformation of the wheel, which could in theory translate to LESS wasted energy.
And the greater surface area also allows one to run harder duro wheels, which is also "supposed" be faster, yet maintain similar traction of softer duro wheels.
Splitfire R3 does not have a spherical in the hanger, the Splitfire Pro does. The R3 is by far my favorite hybrid and GS truck, up front with a wedged 50° baseplate (and some mods to the hanger) and in the back with a slightly dewedged 28° baseplate.That being said, I'm one of the rare ones who likes it as a front truck but it sure works for me.
Thanks for the clarification Mig. I own a Splitfire, but I don't even know what version it is, and couldn't remember all the distinctions between the versions....
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what is the benefit of spherical bearings? (they replace the pivot cup right?)
On some trucks they replace the pivot cup, and they also reside in between the bushings in the hanger, with the kingpin running through the bearing.
Lower friction, so your truck action is dictated solely by your bushings, not the stiction of the pivot cup.There is also hanger play inside the pivot cup..If you've ridden with a totally worn out pivot cup, you know what I mean. The bearings basically eliminate this.
Like the king said, spherical bearings eliminate any slop in the truck caused by the pivot cup, or by the bushings allowing movement "back and forth" around the kingpin. They make a truck more "precise".
Ghetto Bennett with sphericals:
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Any particular one you would recommend for rear? Or front?
I like the narrowest I can get (bennett 4.3 atm)
Like I said, any of them would be more than adequate. I have a GOG front, and Airflow and Splitfire rears. (Along with a Bennett and an Ace with modified with spherical bearings for the front, and a Paris and a couple of Randals with sphericals added.)
If you think you'd like spherical bearings in your back truck, there's Radikal, GOG and 161.
If you think you'd rather not have sphericals in your back truck, there's Virage, Airflow, or Splitfire if you can get one used. (Though I think it's Splitfire version III that does have a spherical in the hanger.)
All the front trucks have at least a spherical in the hanger. They're all going to ride pretty much alike, with very slight differences, depending on which model you choose.
The "ultimate" setup would be the adjustable GOG's... You can easily adjust steering angles by removing / replacing one bolt instead of pulling the entire truck off and changing wedges.
I believe all of them are as narrow as a 4.3, and probably narrower. All of them have the ablility to be spaced to different widths with spacers, or replacing the axles with different lengths.
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And 161's
http://www.sk8kings.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=S&Category_Code=161T
Great trucks anyway
Ah yes. Why wasn't I smart enough to check sk8kings, since they sell 4 out of the 5 available brands?.?.?
161... Pricey, and I'm sure they ride great...
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so its really not needed unless you're running GS or SuperG ? (6 wheeler)
Right. Not necessarily "needed", just an option for more traction.
I've seen some used in DH as well.any comments on that? (benefits?)
I'm not a hardcore down-hiller, so I'll just give you a quote from another website from some guy who knows something aboot DH:
How's this for a downhill schwheeler?Wherever you put a double-truck setup, there are two sets of bushings to lean into. It's stiffer and doesn't turn as easily as a single truck that has only one set of bushings. This can be bad for steering, but good for stability. In Downhill and Streetluge, there are no really tight turns to worry about, and so you can get away with having a double-front setup. You put your weight more forward into the turns and can get extra traction and stability up front.On slalom boards however, you probably aren't going to want to ride a double-front setup because it will be very hard to turn and the back end will still tend to slide out. If you put only one truck in the front and double the back, you can now steer around the cones and get the stability and traction and drive off of the rear.
Any specific precision truck you would recommend?I like the Surf-Rodz but those dont come in slalom sizes...do they?
If you're talking Slalom specific precision trucks, there are only 4 brands currently comercially available that I know of: G.O.G., Radikal, Virage, and Airflow (rear only).
Splitfires are no longer in production, but you can get those used at times.
I have personally ridden GOG's, Airlows and Splitfires a lot, and would recommend any of them.
I've ridden a Radikal a little bit, and they're great trucks too. A little less user-friendly than the others but otherwise great.
I have no experience with the Virage trucks.
I'm sure that any of the above would be more than adequate if you want to drop the $...
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That's interesting.
So basically, it feels more like a brick then ever before?
Kinda like comparing a mazda rx-8 to a ford truck?
Not at all. It's like comparing a Kessler 162 to a Kessler 185. You wouldn't want to try and stuff the 185 through a slalom course, and a six wheeler isn't designed for tighter slalom skateboard courses. It doesn't feel like a brick at all, it's just not for technical stuff. Fast, wide-open stuff, yes. Isn't that what a quiver is for? The right tool for the right job?
which brings up another question of mine, are precision trucks worth the money?If better traction and a more precise feel are "worth it" then precision trucks are worth it... There's a definite difference. Keep your eyes open in the classified secions on the skate sites. You can get precision schtuff for great deals. Every precision truck I own was purchased used...
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...really?
I was expecting some complex response or something...
It seems like the extra wheels would also increase surface area touching the road meaning it would be a bit slower.
Does it feel any different than just using one rear truck?
More traction is pretty much the reason behind six-wheelers. More 'thane touching the road = more traction. When it comes down to it, its cheaper to add a cast truck and another set of wheels than it is to buy a machined rear "traction" truck. Everyone who sees it usually has to try it out because it's so "different". 'Specially the young-uns.
A bit slower? I don't know. Could be. Would probably depend more on the rider and the course than how many wheels and trucks the board has though.
Does it feel different than using just one rear truck? Absolutely. It's heavier, reacts slower, it's harder to pump at slow speeds, more stable at higher speeds... It pretty much changes everything.
As far as actual racing, the only time I might actually use a six-wheeler would be in pretty open GS / Super G courses, with BIG offsets that force you across the hill in a big way. Weight the back foot on this board and it's pretty hard to get the back-end to break loose. Anything more technical becomes too much work. We had a "beginner" straight course set up at a session a couple weeks ago. Probably 7-8 foot spacing on the cones (but I'm not sure). For giggles, I was would try and stuff it through that course once in a while. I could do it on the schwheeler, but like I mentioned, it was a LOT of work.
Complex enough for ya now?
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what's the purpose of the dual rear trucks?
more grip?
Yep..
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It hasn't been gathered like that in some time, my wife is out of town so I decided to gather and shoot the quiver....I look at my quiver the way many look at a golf bag, each board has a purpose
Inspiration.... (But I was too lazy to haul ALL of them out at once...)
The slalom sticks:
The two on the left are set up for the kids - really soft bushings so lightweights can get them to turn. The schwheeler is pretty much that way at the moment too.
The long / carving boards. I guess the VH Hellcat is a speedcarver / downhill stick, but I don't do that enough...
And the lonely pool / park / street decks that pretty much never get ridden, along with a Roe LDP deck waiting to be set up.
Anyone in the market for an old-school Zorlac pig?
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i might be interested if its the big fat air tires.
Since he is calling it a "Carveboard stick" I assume he's reffering to the "Carvestik"
It will look somethin' like this:
Either a 34, or 40 inch version.
Or like this:
The 32 inch kiddie version...
$100 is a purdy dang good price if it's in good condition.
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I was looking at a D.O.G. also, but decided on the Red Barron for two reasons. I doubt I'll be running much if any GS any time soon, and I found a used Red Barron on the fish.
And, drill an extra set of holes in the red Barron, and you could easily use it for GS....
One Red Barron, a drill, a few different wedging options, and some wrenching and you can pretty much ride anything from TS to GS.
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And what's so special about the D.O.G. ?
The GRAPHICS of course. What could be more impotent?
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Actually, the REAL reason why I want a D.O.G. over the regular GS stick is that it has a wider tail. I like boards with a "big backyard". (It's also slightly longer than the regular GS.)
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http://shop.tactissk8shop.com/FULLBAG-DECKS_c11.htm has the D.O.G. and the Red Barron, as well as the rest of the other slalom line up.
Yes, I know Dano carries Fullbag, and has the D.O.G. listed on his site, but he does not actually have one in stock (As of the last time I spoke with him via email...)
Also, is that you that's been posting up all the WTB in the classifieds at the fish?Yes, that would be the same skully.... Seems no-one wants to give up their FULLbag....
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And Skully, nice #2 Stinger! The #1 belongs to legendary Z-boy Wentzle Ruml... :D
Yeah, I got lucky on that one. So, what yer really sayin' is that I should hang the Stinger on the wall, and buy another Red Baron to ride? ;)
I was wondering aboot the decks, 'cause they're not up on your website yet. Currently looking for a D.O.G. deck to get from one of your US distributors...
Summer Quiver
in Summer Carving
Posted
Yes same delrin as slide pucks.
Easier and cheaper? I don't think so. It's much easier to buy a stock pivot cup from Khiro....