Steve Dold
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Posts posted by Steve Dold
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Another data point: My board is 23.5 wide and I use size 28 AF-600s with TD2 step-ins. My angles are 55/50 which puts the boots right at the edge of the board. This means that the tip of the toe of the boot is right over the edge, and the back of the boot (about where the lean adjuster is) is right over the heel edge. It's a pretty slow board edge to edge, though.
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No kidding, you guys really had this thing organized and it was a huge amount of fun. It was great to meet Michelle and see Fin again, and to meet some of you guys at the tent. The best part was when a carver chased me down and introduced himself as the guy who built my board (Bruce). That was really cool. The worst part was today at Buttermilk when I was trying to decide whether I should go left or right of a photographer's race gate and ended up hitting it square dead-on, slapping both poles down evenly and puilling the flag off. I didn't even get a pic out of it because he didn't know I was coming.
I sure felt like an ass. It was the proverbial "last run." My wife Katie had a huge amount of fun too, so we'll be back 
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It's getting firm again, today (thu 15th) was mostly clear, around 30, lots of grooming and tomorrow looks even better. Yesterday in the 6-8" the Coiler EX 175 23.5W worked really well. It's nice to have a little extra width in powder.
EDIT: It's Friday morning, 1" of snow last night and it's still snowing. I thought it would be firm groomed but looks like today will be a couple of inches of powder.
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Even if centrifugal force were not real, it is still a useful term.
If you are facing the front of the board, toeside seems more accurate than frontside.
I like arguing about really unimportant things.
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Man - I can't wait. Especially with the season we are having in Tahoe right now.
Steve and Katie Dold (2)
Arriving Monday the 13th, leaving the next Monday
Hope to ride with you all most of those days
Coming from Sacramento CA
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Good point, but some of us aren't too good at staying neutral :rolleyes:Why do all of that when all you really have to do is stay neutral. -
Phil is right on about the board wanting to go straight on its own. I once witnessed a Donek Axis go down the hill, sans rider, and it didn't wiggle, turn, tumble or anything, it just went perfectly straight and true. I think it got up to about 60 or 70 miles per hour before it ran into a tree. I'm not saying whose board it was :rolleyes:
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Doug Dryer showed me that you could ride straight by weighting the tail, and it worked amazingly well. It seems easier with binding angles around 60 degrees, and on a longer board.
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Thanks for the report Joel. I was thinking of joining you guys yesterday but I woke up too late and went into work instead. Your impressions of the board coincide exactly with what some others have told me. Nothing to complain about, just different.
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DT, thanks for the great post. I guess that's why mechanics are always warned not to scratch or nick parts like connecting rods.
I understand the importance of preload from reading about engine assembly. It seems natural that the effects would translate to bindings also.
I've seen three or four boots come out of standard bindings, luckily none of them caused injuries. In all but one it was because they were too loose to begin with, and in the other one it was because the lever was adjusted too high (not over-center enough). It just about took two hands to close the binding but it only took a couple of fingers to open it. That was on Burton Race Plates.
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I don't think he sounds accusatory.
Jack, I thought that I had read that steel was able to handle infinite cycles as long as the stress didn't get the part into the plastic region. I think I read this in a discussion on steel bike frames vs. aluminum, where (supposedly) aluminum frames have a finite life and steel frames don't.
But I've also heard that stress cycles on steel Burton bails causes them to fail after a few years. So I'm not sure what the real deal is. Any engineers here know?
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Joel, I'll be there Sunday, probably start out on 7 and then go to 11 (buckboard, usually has the best grooming).
When coverage is good I like to ride flying carpet (under lift 2). But coverage isn't so good right now.
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I'd recommend Mt. Rose too, Skipuppy is correct, it's only a half hour from Reno and is an A1 first class carving mountain. High elevation, medium sized and slightly on the cheaper side. Good grooming too, at least in previous seasons.
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I solved it by gluing a piece of plastic from a Walmart garbage can to the outside of my liner, where the top of the cuff was hitting.
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I wouldn't increase the moderation, but I sure wish there was a way to ignore threads. Then maybe people wouldn't bitch so much about threads they don't like. Like the "Dude, just ride" types who complain when people talk technical. It's like bitching about a conversation you overhear in the next room.
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Flat front and rear on wider Swoard-type boards with angles in the 48-53 range, and 3 front/3 (or 6) rear on narrow boards with angles 60/60.
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Doug, I was a lot happier when I went from ONLY alpine setups basically the same as yours to softer bindings (F2 Proflex) and wider boards that let me ride in the 48-53 degree range. You might like it too. I also ride in the unlocked position, as unpopular and dangerous as it is
. BTS etc. would probably be better than unlocked. But I only liked the narrow/hard/high angle setup on perfect days, and only for carving. I got kind of tired of it after a while.I might go back to the narrow/stiff setups sometime, but right now I'm having a lot of fun riding this stuff.
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Great explanations, thanks
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It's hard to imagine how taper would have any effect exiting from a prolonged turn, unless it involved more than just a width difference. It seems like it would have more effect during fast edge-edge changes. Is that how it works?
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I can't remember ever seeing locktite used anywhere in an airframe structure, it's been either a self-locking nut, castle nut/cotter pin, or safety wire, or some other mechanical means like a bendable tab. Or nothing, as in a lot of engine parts. That's a weird one, seeing connecting rod bolts and nuts with nothing to keep them on but the friction and torque they were install with. And it lasts for a couple of thousand engine hours
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Thanks for the link, MUD. The site gives an interesting equation: T=.2DF, where T=torque (in-pounds), D=bolt diameter, F=tension desired in pounds. Thread pitch isn't even even mentioned. Is this because the inclined-plane action of the threads is nearly insignificant compared to thread and head friction? MUD, if you have some insight, we would welcome it. We will not ask you to post anything that you cannot back up with data :)
Here's where I found the 50/40/10% ratio: Sacramento Skyranch engineering manual, http://www.sacskyranch.com/pubsem.htmIf one is going to post that something is "well documented", please provide a link to this documentation. -
As a bolt becomes tight, the majority of effort turning the wrench is in overcoming head and thread friction. In one engine book I have, it says that for a given torque, about 50% of the friction (when nearly tight) is from the head friction, 40 is from the thread friction, and 10% is from the inclined-plane effect that is putting the actual tension into the bolt. If you lube the threads and/or head, and put the same force (torque) on the bolt, more of the torque tranlates into tension on the bolt, and you might exceed the yield point.
When a company says "Torque to X in-pounds" they specify what lube, if any, should be used because it changes the amount of torque that should be applied to get the right tension, which is what really matters. Torque is only used because there is no easy way to measure tension.
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Many people think it softens the material around the inserts in at least some brands of boards. I didn't think it was a problem before, but I finally did notice it in a board that I used locktite on.
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I don't think there is anything bad about using lube or anti-sieze in fasteners as long as the reduced friction (especially with anti-sieze) is compensated for by using less torque.
Actually the more I think about it the better lubing everything (heads and thread) sounds, because it'll reduce the wear on the hex sockets and tools and make it easier to get the preload needed to keep the parts from sliding in shear. After thinking about it this morning, I am starting to believe 100% that the bolt loosening in bindings has nothing to do with thread friction, but is caused by shearing loads causing the plates to slip, making the thread mating surfaces and bolt heads move, causing an off-torque. If the bolt tension/preload (not torque) is sufficient, this shouldn't happen (the plates shouldn't move with respect to each other). If the plates don't slide with respect to each other, I don't think there is any way the bolts can loosen because with enough preload on the bolt, it doesn't see any changing tensile force when the board is ridden. It should no more loosen on the mountain than it would sitting in the living room.
I sure felt like an ass. It was the proverbial "last run." My wife Katie had a huge amount of fun too, so we'll be back 
. BTS etc. would probably be better than unlocked. But I only liked the narrow/hard/high angle setup on perfect days, and only for carving. I got kind of tired of it after a while.
Getting an EC board...
in Carving Central
Posted
I have the EX 176 23.5 width and also a Swoard 175M. The EX seems very similar to the Swoard but is a little more "damp" and stable and seems slightly heavier. The width is just right for my 28 AF-600s at 55/50 degrees. I would buy another one in a second, like Mark says it's a fun board.