pdube1

Un cuissard de vélo pourrait peut-être aussi faire la job??? Bon surement pas autant que les "Demon". :-) J'vais essayer ça le prochain coup...

Mes bindings sont des TD3 SW. J'ai les canting plate qui venait avec par défaut (6 degré arrière et 3 degré avant). J'aime bien le cant/lift arrière avec la 6 degré, mais je ne suis pas convaincu du lift avant que me procure la plate de 3 degré. ce qui est plate c'est que si je diminue le lift, j'ajoute du cant et vice versa. Va falloir que je me commande une plate 0 degré de Bomber et leurs shipping coute un bras! Ça m'a couté 30$ de shipping pour des e-rings, 6 vis et un t-wrench! Et c'est sans compter les autres frais (tx + duty) que je risque aussi d'avoir à payer!

Ma FLC c'est une 169, mais des fois je me demande si une 163 aurait pas été mieux pour rider au Relais étant donné que les pistes sont plutôt étroite... Ou sinon, c'est peut-être juste ma technique qui n'est pas au point, j'ai encore pas mal de misère à contrôler ma vitesse! :-)

J'aimerais bien essayer ça une Swoard! La seule et unique planche que j'ai ridé à date c'est ma Prior FLC. J'aimerais bien connaitre le feeling de d'autres planches... :-)

Je vous ai vu hier au Relais, vous aviez l'aire d'avoir pas mal de fun! Malheureusement, je n'avais pas mon board, mal de dos oblige, je me suis contenté d'attendre mes gars dans le bas de la pente... :-( Effectivement, je ne comprends pas pourquoi ils laisse les bosses dans cette piste là, c'est dommage parce que c'est la pente parfaite pour le carving!

J'en porte une aussi, ma ceinture de Motocross. C'est bien d'en mettre, mais ça ne fait pas de miracle.... :-(

Bon, il se pourrait que ma journée soit compromise! En fin de semaine j'en ai fais Samedi et Dimanche. À ma 4ieme descente Dimanche, mon dos a flanché solide, durant un virage "heel side"! Ça m'a fait sensiblement la même chose l'an passée en début de saison et j'en avait eu pour 3 semaines à m'en remettre! En espérant pouvoir me rétablir plus rapidement cette fois!

Oui pour les photos. Patrick.

Excellent, en espérant pouvoir y être cette journée là. Pour l'instant, j'ai rien qui pourrait m'en empêcher... :-)

Bonjour tout le monde, Est-ce que quelqu'un peut me dire en quoi ce "carving session" consiste? J'ai commencé à faire du carving l'an passé et je suis au relais à toutes les fin de semaines. je suis loin d'être un pro mais ce genre d'activité m'intéresse. :-) Est-ce qu'il y a d'autre hard booter régulier qui vont au relais??? J'aimeriais bien me joindre à vous. Patrick.

I finally found out what was the issue with the block sliding out on td3 sidewinders... It actually is a problem in the design in the bindings. When you have to use the most inner screw block hole (very small sole lenght like me), the bolts are just a little bit too long and they sit on the cant plate under the block, so it is not possible to screw them down enough. So i though they were really tight but in fact they were not sitting properly in the pocket. By hand it was not possible to move it but with the force applied when carving was enough to get the bolts out of its pocket. The solution has been to grind the bolt a little bit so now they are shorter and then can be screwed down totally.

I'm sorry for the confusion, my bindings are TD3 SideWinders.

And if at the shortest I'm not in a pocket, I will need to flip the block. :-(

With TD3s, the bolts don't sit on the red block on the picture you referred, the bolts sit on the alu block under the epad, maybe for that reason I didn't see those pockets. Anyway, I got the point and maybe I was just between the two pockets as you said, that would explains why it slides. Thank you very much.

Actually, I don't think the bolts themselves got loose. I tightened them up pretty much the first time (the bindings were brand new, there was already some blue loctite on the bolts) but it sounds like not tightened enough because the plates slide a little bit. So after I tightened them up as hard as I could they seemed to be ok. But I'm afraid to strip the bolts by having to tight the bolts too much... The adjustment plates are metal on metal with flat surface, no little teeth or anything to prevent the plate from sliding. So it sounds like the bolts need to be tightened VERY much!! Should putting loctite between the 2 metal surfaces would help or it would be worst? I would not like the boot to get out of the binding during carving!! :-s Thanks

Hi, I got my first ride yesterday after waiting 1 month for my board to arrive. My boots are UPZ rc-10 size 25-25.5. I did not flip the block and the adjustment is just perfect when putting toe/heel adjustment at the shortest. (My boot may not be centered, but I don't see any issue with this so far...) However, I got an issue with the adjustment toe/heel plates which come loose!! Chance is that I've verified that after my first run. I have to re-tightened the adjustment bolt and tight the bolts VERY VERY hard. At a point where I'm afraid to strip the bolts. Do you guys has had the same kind of issue with TD3 bindings? Thanks

I'm also a bit confused. From my understanding the boot I received seems to be Mondo 24-24.5. The box says 25-25.5. Maybe a packaging error? Anyway, important thing is that the shell is perfect for me. But I had to work hard on the liner as it was not long enough.

Just got my brand new UPZ RC-10 2013 size 25-25.5 Sole length = 258mm numbers written on the shell: 4/4.5/5 258/279mm

I always had problem finding any kind of shoes or boots. I have short feet, but large and thick, also my feet's toe end is square shape. Also, I know there is place for larger liner in the shell since I can feel a 1 cm gap between the end of the liner and the shell. I think that if I can heat only the toe box of the liner with heat gun to expand this section they would fit perfect. Else, I will have to try with a new liner. On the side of the boot there are number 4 - 4.5 -5. There is also the number 5 written on the liner, does that mean liner 5 is the larger I can fit in the shell?

Hi, I just got my UPZ boot today. My foot is 24.5cm. Size of my boot is 25-25.5. Actually, There is place for 2 if not 3 fingers in the shell with bare foot. But the liners that come with the boot is REALLY thight. I'm wondering if the liner will pack enough??? Is the UPZ liner can be put in the oven before molding? I feel pressure in the toe, since the toe is made of neoprene, I'm affraid it will not stretch over time. any experience with this? Thank.

Got it. Thanks you for the information.

Ok, and what about loosing the "hard stops" if I flip the blocks? Do you know what is "hard stops" feature exactly??

Hi, I'm new here, I just purchased my first carving gear. UPZ RC10 boot size 25 with TD3 sidewinders binding. Can you please tell me if it will be required to flip the bails? Or by don't flipping the bails I just loose access to the angle adjustment bolts? Sorry for my ignorance, but could someone tells me what is the "hard stops" feature on the binding??? Thanks