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Mike T

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Posts posted by Mike T

  1. base & edge bevel ?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I definitely like a little base bevel, I find that even half a degree makes a noticable fifference in the grabbiness of the edges. I did my first day on my Coiler without doing any edge tuning, and it felt a little grabby, I put a half degree base edge bevel on the base edge and took it out again, similar snow in the early AM, no grabbiness. I'm happy with that.... if I were racing I'm sure I'd get more into this but the hlaf degree suits me well for "just having fun".

    I do all my side edges at one degree, since that's the only side edge file guide I have :)

  2. Suggestions on first board.

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Unless you have no fear of extreme speed, I recommend making sure your first board is not too stiff. The stiffer the board, the more speed you need to lay it into a turn, and the less time you have to receover if you make a mistake.

    My first alpine board was an older Liquid slalom board, it was a 159 but extremely stiff. I took it out 3 or 4 times and really didn't enjoy it. On that last day, I bumped into another hardbooter at the mountain who suggested the board was too stiff to learn on.

    I then moved to a Donek FC 163, which was definitely softer and friendlier. In retrospect even that board was probably on the stiff side for the way I progressed... I prefer learning at the slowest speed at which something works, and then adding speed later.

    You weigh 140 pounds so everything is going to feel stiffer to you than a 175 or 190 pound rider.

    Of course, if you're a speed demon you might be comfortable on a stiffer board than I was when starting out. But even then, slowing it down can be advantageous for correcting technique problems!

  3. Cheap 4807's

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Originally posted by lonerider

    Speaking of addicted to buying snowboards. Before I met all of you guys, I was a respectable recent college graduate student who owned a single regular board (occasionally having a "rock board" in the few months before managing to sell my older board).

    Hah! You've been sucked in just like I have. I *just recieved* my Coiler PR 184 last Thursday, I have two days on it, and I'm already figuring out what I want next!

    BTW that Coiler is one SWEEEEEEEEEEEEET ride. It's a very confidence-building board, I've never been able to hold an edge before like I can on this deck. My other alpine board is a Donek FC I 163. With the exception of steep runs, I just find the Coiler... well, easier to ride. (I suck on steeps so they're both hard to turn for me on steeps) Is it the length, the construction, or a little of both? Anyone with more experince got anything to say there? I've never ridden a bigger Donek or a smaller Coiler, so to me it's apples and oranges...

  4. Suggestions on a mild alpine board?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    If you want to use soft boots, chances are you don't want an alpine board but rather a very carve-worthy freeride board. My favorite all - around freeride boards are the Doneks (www.donek.com). The Incline, Wide, and Sasquatch are essentially different widths of the same board. They are incredibly stable and carve like a champ. I have the Wide 161 which is my "softie" board and I use an older Incline 168 as my rock board for early a late season - with both soft and hard boots.

    There are a few other feeeride decks out there I'd like to try some day - a Rad Air Tanker 192 or 200 (for powder), and a Prior MFR are the two that come to mind. Actually, the specs on the Prior are quite similar to the Donek Wide, just a bit narrower, and I've heard similar reviews, that they are stable as hell and great carvers... they do cost a lot more though.

  5. carving decision

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Like I said above, I'm also 190 and the Axis 172 is just right. I'm a size 25.0 MP shell and keep flip-flopping between mellower angles (48/42) to get the ideal boot position, and more comfortable angles for me (54/51) with a little underhang... your size 11's would be fine these boards. I've only ridden mine with Cateks, but I see a pair of TD2 step-ins in my future, I want the extra dampening of the TD2 w/ soft e-ring, and LOVE the intec step-in interface.

    The Deeluxe LeMans is the current version of the Raichle 224, and IMHO makes an awesome all-around boot. If you want to stiffen them up a little, see if anyone has the softer tongue from a pair of 225 or 325's to sell you. I've owned the 224 and 423 and the only differences I could see are cosmetic... the 324 and LeMans are different year models of the same design.

  6. What board to start with

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I've been very happy with my Axis 172. The amazing thing about it is how if I ride it with my boots locked in on hardpack, it feels like an alpine board... and when I put my boots in walk mode and take it off the groomed, if feels like a freeride board. I suspect the same is true of the 4x4 or Coiler All-Mtn. Although I have heard the Donek is generally stiffer.

    Mind you, for each individual situation, I have a board that might do better, but each of those boards would also be weaker in some area. For example, my Coiler PR 184 is clearly better ar carving the hardpack, but I'd rather be on the Axis in trees, bumps, and powder.

    I'm at Mt Hood, maybe we'll run into each other sometime if one of us goes to the other's mountain. I always wear a silver helmet with a big red Catek sticker, snow, rain, shine, or summer.

  10. carving decision

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I think it's too stiff for softies, and unless you have low profile bidnings, probably too narrow, even at high angles something like a Salomon or Brton binding is going to be gangly on a 21.5 cm waisted board.

    But I ride mine everywhere in plates. I've taken a run or two with Sean and let me assure you that he's light years ahead of me, but I can still hold my own on it in powder, trees, and jumps. I weigh 190 and with hard boots, the Axis stiffness is just right for me in powder. I tend to jump-turn it through bumps but with practice I'm pretty sure it would be fine.

    I've never ridden a Coiler or Prior all-mtn.

  15. Pain free feet?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I achieved pain-free feet with custom footbeds, a Thermoflex liner, and by realizing that in Raichle/Deeluxe, I need a size 25 shell even though my feet are closer to 26.5.

    My feet are flat and have forward arches, so the footbed is pretty much a necessity. I probably over-did it with the cork ones in terms of spending money. I use 'em with hard boots, soft boots, and hiking shoes, so at least I get a lot of use from them. If I didn't work from home in my bare feet I'd probably use them every day.

    The thermoflex liners keep my bony feet from being exposed to pressure points, and also make for a nice snug fit without having to crank down the buckles too hard.

    My feet are shaped just right so that I can use a smaller shell size than my actual foot length. I started with 26's, and even with a Thermoflex liner theere was a lot of slop. The Shell test (http://www.bomberonline.com/Store/boots/shell_test.cfm) does suggest to me that the 26 shell was in fact too big... so try it out for yourself as well!

  16. Do you tinker with your equipment?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    For my first two seaons on plates (Catek WC), I was constantly whipping out the allen wrenches. But this season, I seem to have found my stance, and have pretty much given up tinkering on the hill.

    I'm not sure if it's because I finally stumbled upon the right stance afer two years...

    ... or, if it's because I'm finally *just skilled enough* so that *any* stance no longer feels wrong ;)

  18. Forward lean questions

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I've noticed a lot of people recommending using less forward lean on their boots here lately so I gave it a try. I used to ride my Riachle SB 325's with the front foot on 2, back foot on 1 or 2. I tried 3 front / 2 back and then 4 front / 3 back. The less lean I use the more inclination I seem to get - I'm assuming that's a result of putting more pressure on the boot tongues which in turn sends more pressure to the nose of the board entering a turn?

    Does that make sense - less forward lean makes it easier to turn harder? I seem to recall seeing racers using lots of forward lean, so I would have thought more lean = harder turns.

    In any case, I'd like to hear some of the exprts opinion on the subject... should I keep using less forward lean, or does the fact that I can turn harder using less lean expose a flaw in my riding?

  19. What resort do you want to go too ?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I'd like to try Beaver Creek for the grooming that several people mentioned after SES 2003.

    Definitely some heliboarding in Alaska, although I'd be on softies for that.

    Big Sky during a heavy snow year, for the low skier density.

    Sun Valley on a weekday, for the groomers.

    SES, maybe next year I'll finally make it :)

    Places I've been to and want to go back again:

    Squaw Valley after a big dump

    Kirkwood especially during the spring

  23. Looking for :Salomon FRS

    in For Sale

    Posted

    Topsheet:

    topsheet.JPG

    Nicks on tail:

    tail.JPG

    The worst of the base damage:

    basedamage.JPG

    As you can see, several medium-grade scratches in the base, and the big grayish spot is a core short that was base-welded and ptexed. As with any core shot that close to the edge, it needs to be re-ptexed every now and again, the base weld prevents (too much) further core damage. Like I said, it's been well used.

    If you are interested even after seeing the condition (!), make me an offer - mtovino@yahoo.com. Otherwise it will sit in my garage until next time I feel like riding on rocks!

    -Mike T

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