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TLN

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Posts posted by TLN

  1. (Relative) Newbie doesn't like ice

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Hardboot and alpine is like a cheat code for icy condition and carving.

    You can ride same carves/speed as on your softie with no effort. Lean sideways, front/back - edgehold is great, you know that board will hold the edge. It's more fun to ride faster/tight turns though, and you'll get some crashes doing so.

    Hardboots might be uncomfortable, but once you dialed in - they're pretty comfy.

    • Like 1

  2. SCR Question for the Engineers

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I think that board

    1. Almost never reaches 90 degree.

    2. It rips through snow. Tips dig into snow deeper, then board center. If center touches the snow, that pretty much means that other parts of board dig though the snow 3-4cm deep which is enough to hold the rider.

    3. Obviously that 8m board will hold edge a bit less then 13m. But you have to put more force into 13m board to go tight radius.

    4. Talking about stiff/soft board and snow: harder the snow - softer board you need. You want board to bend a bit more and touch the snow.  More skill you have - stiffer board you can ride.

  8. Looking for narrow soft boot carver

    in Want to Buy

    Posted

    I have F2 Eliminator worldcup 166. That's metal+carbon version. Season 13-14 I believe, last one they made 166. Longest they have is 163 now.

    245 waist, 12.5m avg VSR I believe.  I also have Burton Elevators, if you're interested.

    I live in midwest too, so you might save on shipping. PM if you're interested.

  9. The Magic of Metal

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Tanglefoot said:

    Hello again TLN,

    I agree that it is an unfair comparison, but the whole reason for this quest is to find measurable differences between metal boards and composite boards. I think I will struggle to get my hands on a composite board that has been engineered to behave like a metal board though. Had to start somewhere, hence the F2 / Kessler comparison.

    I see what you're saying. It's interesting comparsion indeed.

    Wonder if we'll get similar results with other boards: i.e. compare metal race board with Glass board. Say SG Full Carve vs Kessler 180 for example. Different brand and construction.

     

    I wasn't following the whole thread about titanal and everything, but I guess the supply of 0.3mm is limited, while 0.4mm is widely available. 0.4 is stiffer then 0.3 obviously. Tell me please, should I worry, if my weight is 200lbs+? :)

  10. The Magic of Metal

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    19 hours ago, Tanglefoot said:

    Hi TLN,

    The reason for choosing these two boards for comparison is that they are very similar in terms of purpose, rider weight range, length, width, sidecut etc. They are both boardercross type boards, but crucially, the Kessler is a metal board and the F2 is a composite board, so this was my one chance to perform a back-to-back comparison. Unfortunately, the F2 is quite an odd construction in terms of lay-up, which makes it less relevant than if it had been optimised in a similar way to the Kessler.

    I have similar F2, but Worldcup edition. That's metal board, and would be fair to compare to Kessler.

    I agree that top clear layer affects the performance. But IMHO, metal adds so much to the board, so you should only compare metal-to-metal boards. Carbon vs glass is fine to me.

  11. The Magic of Metal

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    On 9/14/2016 at 3:11 PM, Tanglefoot said:

    F2 Mass: 13% lighter than Kessler (2862g vs 3286 g)

    F2 Bending stiffness: 7.3% stiffer than Kessler

    F2 Torsional stiffness: 24% softer than Kessler

    F2 Bending frequency: 8.8% higher than Kessler (9.8 Hz vs 9.0 Hz)

    F2 Bending damping: 33% faster than Kessler (4 s vs 6 s)

     

    Just curios, isnt Cross a metal board? Carbon f2 have to metal (WC does). I'm not sure about cross though.

    On 9/15/2016 at 0:41 PM, Tanglefoot said:

    BlueB, thanks for your feedback. Everything I have learned in life also points towards the Kessler as the grippier board, but I am not sure which of the measurements show this - if any.

    May be it's not Kessler, but F2 was made for different weight? While F2 position Eliminator as BX board, they're definately more user-friendly.

     

     

    ps. @BLOODTYPEZX10R  soulds like something fun and interesting. Fx sounds extremely nice.

  13. Buck Hill Summer Skiing

    in Great Lakes

    Posted

    18 minutes ago, bobble said:

    Buck rents skis and freestyle boards. i believe their gear has extruded bases that will hold up to the Neveplast. 

    I've emailed both Donek and Coiler about riding on Neveplast. The consensus is that riding on Neveplast will damage the boards.  Donek and Coilers have sintered base and while it can withstand the heat it might deform and cause delamination. 

    So I would recommend a rock board if you want to attempt riding on Neveplast.

    i tried going out last night with plates mounted on an Elan Ballistic.  I couldn't carve. I was going way too fast for the board to turn. I had a painful boot issue and left after two runs.  Going to try again this evening.

    There was abrasion along the edges but no gouges.

     

    My thoughts, exactly. 

    I will probably be there, and just grab a regular freestyle board.  I don't have  a rockboard in US, so rentals is the way to.

    Mind you asking about prices for tickets or may be rentals?

     

    ps. You're talking about old Elan Ballistic or new with titanal?

  16. Newbie looking for advice

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Neil Gendzwill said:

    He's not talking about riding in Chicago local resorts, he's talking about his 2 or 3 trips west with friends. Hardboots work fine in powder on an all-mountain board.

    Oh, sorry, Missed that.

    I've tried my 4WD 179 in powder, and that was terrible. I will do way better now in similar conditions, but thanks. I can see how this works for someone else though. I was 220+lbs riding in 4ft fresh pow/trees.

    I guess everyone here have different definition of "all mountain", "trees", "powder" and carving which causes lots of confusion.
     

  17. Newbie looking for advice

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Neil Gendzwill said:

    This guy wants to use it for all-mountain riding. When I think of all-mountain, I think it should work in the bumps, in the trees, in cut-up pow, etc etc.

    I personally don't get an idea of hardboots in pow on anything but swallowtail, but may be that's just me.

    I've been to  Chicago local resorts. No bumps, trees, or something else. No powder also.

    I agree that something wider would work better for newbie though.

  18. Newbie looking for advice

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    29 minutes ago, Neil Gendzwill said:

    Not necessarily. I think the setup Puhutes outlined meets those criteria, but it's distinctly unsuited for what the OP wants to do, which is all-mountain riding.  He could go shopping in the used section and end up with an old Factory Prime, TD1s and some AF700s and again, have the wrong gear for what he wants to do.

    He needs a shorter, wider board than what many of the people here ride.  He needs a boot/binding combo that is softer than what many of the people ride here.

    OP haven't posted his weight, have he?

    I personally think that slalom board, especially old one(glass and single radius) is solid choice for a beginner. I never tried AF700, but guess it will work ok for heavier riders.

    Bottom line: it all depends on weight-skills and asking price to me.

  20. Newbie looking for advice

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I was writing a response, but it wasn't posted here.  :mad:

    Cheers to Chicago carvers. I live in windy city also, and ride local resorts. Feel free to reach out, it always more fun riding together.

    In my opinion it all depends on a skills and weight. As @teach said: 220lbs and 150 lbs makes bigg difference. 

    I was asking same questions when I started carving, so long story short:

    Bindings: F2 Race Ti.

    Boots: UPZ if you're into carving and willing to spend. Start with used Deeluxe if you not sure. Moldable liner is a must for any boos.

    Board: For local hills you want something shorter. Waist  about 20-21 is a good starting point. If you wanna save a little - you can start with used board - believe me it will be as much fun as new one. Modern Donek/Prior/Coiler is a great great choice. With hardboots - it will be easier to "make board turn" then softboard, so no worries here. I was riding hardboots only last season (simply because I didn't bought soft boots/bindings last year) - and I got no problems on my almost-GS Coiler 180: from icy conditions to spring slush.

    If you're 200lbs or more - you can try my boards/plate if you want.

     

  21. Off Season Training Regimen

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    <= Not a racer. Went from 280lbs to 205. Was ~240 on average.

    I've bought road bike this summer as well. Pretty cool thing I should say. 50-60 miles rides works great for me. I'm not participating in group rides,riding mostly alone.

    Gym: squats, deadlift and everything else is a good idea also. You need to have strong core and legs. I'm not doing anything specific for alpine, but I will include more different exercises in the gym this fall.

    Personally I see two problems:

    1. leg veins. I have problems with em. All the sports I do (snowboard, bike, basketball) require stronger legs what leads to vein problems.

    2. I'm stil debating what to do during winter season: on one hard I want to be stonger, and people usually gaining weight during the winter. On the other hand I want to be lighter. That's a biggest debate to be honest. I can get to something about 240-250 but that's no fun for snoboarding.  I can get below 200 but that's no fun for anything else  :)

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