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zyzgerry
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Posts posted by zyzgerry
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26 minutes ago, kitejumping said:
Cordura or nylon 1000 would probably work well too but might tear easier.
Fancy! So is Cordura 500 or 600 Denier a slightly better choice? Not sure how the number going up/down affect the fabric's ability to endure abrasion.
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9 hours ago, kitejumping said:
Not at all an easy solution, but I made my own snowpants using 8oz DYN500 Dyneema fabric reinforcements for the higher wear areas (cant find it available for sale anywhere anymore), I expect them to last many seasons as that material is crazy strong (if you precut it, you can't even rip it by hand). Neoshell with fleece for the rest as it is the most breathable best fabric for snowsports imho. With that being said, I think it's common to trash a pair of pants when you are learning extra low or laydown heelsides with all the washouts that can happen as you learn the edge control and body positioning, but once you have them down trashing pants shouldn't happen that frequently. I made these a year ago and they still look new after many knee brushes and butt skims on snow (although I already knew how to laydown heelsides with no butt skimming before using them and trashed another pair of pants learning those in the past).
Wow these look really awesome! Did you buy the fabric yourself online and asked a tailor to sew them onto the pants? Or did you DIY entirely?
I found something like this on Amazon, is this similar to what you used? I know almost nothing about fabric. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093Y3ZTGD/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
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7 minutes ago, staples156 said:
plus some handy cant/lift adjustment
Thank you for the tips!
I've browsed a few riser plates mentioned in other posts, like Bomber Power Plates, Donek BX plates, and some others. Pretty expensive from what I've seen, and often not available to buy right now.. Just curious, what does "cant" mean - is it the angle where riser plate lifts the heel (but not toe) ever so slightly?
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Because I'm still practicing the heel side carves, I fall a lot. After a few days on the snow, I noticed my newly bought Gore-Tex snow pants started showing signs of damage (see the white section below).
My previous snow pants had the exact same problem, and eventually lost its waterproof-ness. I thought Gore-Tex will slow down this from happening, but I guess not really.
So I wonder if anyone has found some solution to this? Anything on the market I can buy to mitigate this? Or if I take it to a tailer to sew a extra layer of something on top, what materials I should ask for - or is that gonna help?
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9 hours ago, Odd Job said:
that you aren't booting out at about 80+, that's good enough to carve it all. You do not need total clearance.
If I place the board flat ground on heelside edge, it stands at about 80-85 degrees (guessed) - however, when carving on the snow, the edge will dip into the snow (probably even more so on softer conditions), so I think that will probably reduce the angle I can carve without boot-out, right? At least that's what I think in my head, maybe this isn't a big issue..
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41 minutes ago, ShortcutToMoncton said:
Like I said before, you definitely don’t want any narrower than you have now. With 8.6m SCR, that means your board is even wider under your feet than it would be with a larger radius. IMO at 10m SCR you probably should be looking for at least 28.5-29cm with those bindings. You could also look at some risers to minimize your bootout.
For reference, here’s my 28.3cm waist board with 10m sidecut. I’ve been playing around with stance on this new board but the bindings here are a comfortable 27/12, 22 inch width (5-10 here). With the cup-less Flow NX2 bindings and size 8.5 short-length Driver X boots, my rear boot is pretty much exactly over the edges at 12 degrees, and I can get away with less overhang than you have even down at 3 degrees.
In contrast, on my old 25.5cm waist board with 10.5 radius I really struggled with bootout and had to use something like 39/24. That’s great for carving, but in my humble opinion not for much else.
I’d echo the previous advice on bending your knees more on your heelside and getting low low low, but keep your head and chest up and don’t break at the waist.
Thank you! I didn’t get much boot-out until the last 2 days ago because I was doing even less angulation before, now I’m feeling the fear of boot-out every time as I try to go for more:) I will indeed consider 28.5cm ish width in a new board.
I have 2 questions:1) what’s the benefit of 15 degrees difference between front and rear foot? - noticed from your 27/12 and 39/24.
2) other than donek flux, is there any other board brand&model you would recommend - hopefully one that won’t break the bank either? (Consider that Flux raised my budget plan to ~$900 already, any other good alternatives?). What is your softboot board above? It looks great.
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2 hours ago, pow4ever said:
Be more dynamic (more up/down - left/right) on the heel side. Bend the knee more.
Compare to your toe side - much more fluid. Heel side seem static/rigidThanks! Yeah due to my struggle with heel side my body automatically tense up. Will try to be more dynamic!
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2 hours ago, Xargo said:
f the disc is not symmetric, you could try to rotate it 180 degrees and then use the adjustment range to move to bindings as much towards the toe edge like possible
Thanks! I rotated it by 180 and was able to shift it towards tow edge by like 0.2-0.3 inches. Not much but I will take it
Didn't realize the disc is asymmetric.
Also appreciate the technique suggestions!
2 hours ago, crackaddict said:Add more rotation and more compression on the heelside. Try putting the back hand on the front knee through the (heelside) turn and remember to rotate from the hips.
Thanks Crack! I will practice those movements.
2 hours ago, crackaddict said:51cm is very tight, try 54cm or more. I ride 55-57cm stance width on my soft boot carvers, I'm 5'10" tall with a 31" inseam.
I will give 55 a try as well. I have almost the exact same height and inseam. I'm curious what's your board's waist - given that you ride 27/12 mostly - you must have a very wide board to not have drag right？
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Same for me, partly for cost reasons, also partly want to stay flexible, I'd like to stick to soft-boot
I just posted a new post asking for some carving technique advices (posted in the wrong forum i think, but don't have a way to change it). If you have any suggestions for me, please do share
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I've been learning to carve on softboots and this is kinda my best results so far. This is my 2nd season on snowboarding. I'm at a point that I can get low on toe side, but find it hard to get lower on heel side carve.
Equipment:
I'm riding Korua Dart, length 160cm, waist 27.9cm, effective edge 123cm. Burton Step-on bindings & Burton Ion Step-on boots (US size 9.5). Stance angles 36/27, stance width 51cm. I started with 30/21 initially, but found myself getting "boot out" on heel side too easily (or "binding-out") - thanks to the huge heel cup of Burton's. I increased my angles to try to mitigate that. With 27 degree on back-foot, I'm not getting any boot-out yet, but I'm sure if I learn to tilt the board more, I will face the issue again, because the heel-cup is still visibly outside the board by 1-2 cm.
I'm aware I can probably upgrade my gears to a dedicated carving board, but I'm hoping to get some suggestions on my techniques first. Welcome any critiques on my stance, posture, etc. Thank you for any input in advance!
Video
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On 3/6/2023 at 12:44 AM, NByrne said:
I have a Donek Flux new this season. I’ve been riding mostly bigger freeride boards for a long time but wanted a dedicated carving board. It’s been an interesting process learning how to really ride it. Not my favorite ride in chunky variable snow, low visibility, or the trees. I’m just not that nimble on it yet. Haven’t really ridden it in the powder or in the steeps….
But when I’ve had it on a clean soft groomer, and can let the sidecut work, that thing is amazing. Kinda terrifying too… it definitely out carves any other board I’ve ever ridden.
The process of ordering a Donek was educational to say the least. Those guys are greatThanks for sharing! I'm planning to order the same before next season!
19 hours ago, Carvin' Marvin said:Nothing wrong with your board or equipment. The Dart will rip carves. Focus on technique. At MCC there was a dude doing stuff on a short pow board that people couldn’t do on hardboots. Take advice here with a grain of salt. Have the money and like boards? Heck yeah get one then.
Haha for sure, techniques always prevails!
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6 hours ago, Shred Gruumer said:
So far I'm at 36
What is your board brand and name? Looks so cool!
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Looking for a Donek Flux about ~160cm length with ~28cm width.
- Width is preferably somewhere between 27.8-28.5cm.
- Length I can be a little flexible, 158-165cm maybe
If you have a board that not Donek Flux but with a similar profile (Carving-focused, hammer-head), I'd consider too
I live in NJ/NY area, so I can pick up locally if not too far.
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32 minutes ago, ShortcutToMoncton said:
Funny, I got a chance to hop on a Gray Desperado “Type R” for a run two weeks ago. Some Japanese guy from Toronto was also carving and interested in my wide softboot Coiler, so we switched for a run. I think it was a 160, so a bit smaller than my 163.
Anyway, it was way too narrow in the waist, probably around 25cm. To me that’s just crazy talk for something that’s supposed to be a softboot carver, but they obviously design them to use a high-angles softboot stance. He had slightly bigger feet than me and was using something like 42/30 or so? Personally if I have to run high forward stance angles and stick to groomers, just give me hard boots please!!
With all due respect it was a very nice board but my Coiler crushed it, hahaha. Dude couldn’t get used to the 24/9 lower stance angle I was trying out, but he seemed pretty shook at how amazing it is on the Coiler and he locked in one toeside carve that might have blown his mind.
Anyway, rest assured that niche manufacturers like Donek, Coiler, Thirst etc make world-class boards! This Flux is an amazing ripper but you’ll need to consider your foot/binding size and your preferred stance angles.
Haha I've been waiting to hear someone compare the Gray Desperado & Custom boards like Donek. Thanks for sharing! Yeah most of the top riders in Japan & Korea use very high angles (36/27, 42/30, etc.), and most of the carving boards they make are narrow, don't see many options above 26cm waist - and I was struggling to find something that might suit me from those brands.
My next board will probably be Donek Flux, gonna custom it to a 27 or 27.5 cm waist. Hopefully I will be able to quickly fix my bad habits and make my boards worthwhile.
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50 minutes ago, John Gilmour said:
I have always used them in both feet. I tend to cinch them down fairly tight.
I don’t super crank on my inner liners because if you do that you’re going to deform the inner liner and you’re only going to point contact along several parts of the inner liner so I make those inner liners pretty snug.
Thank you for the suggestions! Will try it out!
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10 minutes ago, inkaholic said:
Bob is @softbootsurfer
Hahaha awesome, world is small!
Hi Bob, @softbootsurfer, just want to say hi again lol. This was me on that day, not sure if you still remember me
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16 hours ago, dhamann said:
an 8.5-10m scr is 8.5 at nose and grows to 10m at the tail. if it were 8.5/10/8.5 then it would not be a variable sidecut radii
Yeah I think you might be right, now I remembered Sean’s demonstration in his video..I remembered wrong.
interestingly there is a famous Japanese board called “Gray Desperado Ti” which has 3 radius for the same board, like 9600/9200/10200. I guess it has the same overall design as Donek’s VSR, but they tightened the radius in the middle for a bit. Not exactly sure what it does to the riding thou.
Link to the Gray’ spec book if interested: http://graysnowboards.co.jp/pdf/21-22_GR_CL_GRAY_english.pdf
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5 minutes ago, John Gilmour said:
I’m a huge booster strap proponent on soft boots and hard boots. Do it only around the boots.
the booster strap helps to give more support higher up and keep your shin in proper tongue contact to prevent slopping around during edge transitions and reduce shin bang.
I use heavy duty Velcro to keep the booster strap from wandering up.
Thanks I will give it a try this weekend! Do you usually apply straps on both front and back feet? Since we bend back knees more, does strapping back foot limit it’s ability to bend?
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59 minutes ago, John Gilmour said:
- If you get to aspen this season look me up. I’ll dial you in . Nothing wrong with what you have initially . I find mid level riders benefit a lot from better gear. Though some upper guys can make almost Anything work. But those upper level guys got the skills to make riding Anything look good from years of riding great gear first. 347-263-7238.
I can put you on some gear that would just make your head explode. Stuff that most people don’t even know exists.
‘With insightful instruction you can learn more in 3 days in Colorado than 5 years of 40 day+ seasons trying to figure it out on your own. . Then you can bring those skills back to the East coast.
‘Your ikon pass gets you 5-7 days at Aspen. We have had a lot of snow this year so we won’t melt out as quickly.
Next year buy the Frontier Airline “Go Wild” pass with unlimited flying and hit all Ikon CO . You can be on the hill Riding with LCI (The Loveland carving crew) faster than driving anywhere decent from NJ. CHeap tickets.com ‘will start having those super cheap rentals once again for rental cars.
Thank you for the offer! I wish I joined this forum much earlier this year, LOL. I went to Aspen at the end of January this year, mind blowing snow conditions, definitely will come back. If not this season, for sure next. Only got 2 days left on the pass for Aspen, if i can find a cheap flight I will go.
In January at buttermilk, I met a 74 year-old softboot carver, and he’s just so smooth. Didn’t get his name, but he said “we are Cold Surf, look it up”. Do you by chance know the group, or even the person I’m talking about? He rides a Burton family tree.
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8 hours ago, Odd Job said:
You will be at the Donek Demo at Cooper right? (Not Copper); Cooper is up near Leadville, if you continue on Highway 96 from... Copper.
You will see a bunch of softboot carvers, including Knapton.
It's this Saturday, 3/4.
Thanks for the note! I will think about it - the original plan was copper so we booked a place on the north side of copper, need to convince friends
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On 3/1/2023 at 5:19 PM, rjnakata said:
Here's another's summary of binding mods that look good
Burton Step On Full Season Review... - Softboot Carving Gear Reviews - AlpineSnowboarder
Do you know if the booster strap should be wrapped around boots only, or wrapped sounds both boots and bindings? Any difference?
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On 4/9/2022 at 4:07 AM, RoroSnow said:
3 Home made booster strap, a lot cheaper, yet effective....! stiffer upper boot area allowing at the same time tightening
Maybe a silly question - should I use the booster strap to wrap around only boots, or should I strap it around behind the binding? The image seems to strap the boots only, but I don't fully understand its functionality - isn't the boots already tightened up?
On 4/9/2022 at 4:07 AM, RoroSnow said:2 Steel braces to tighten the heel cleat/highback combo to the heel cup
I also noticed the movement of the bindings when I try to bend my knees, tried to tighten the screws but that didn't help at all. Where to get these steel braces? Are they custom-made?
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1 hour ago, dhamann said:
the 10m tail will send you downhill
I thought 8.5-10m VSR would mean nose/tail have 8.5m sidecut, while middle body has 10m sidecut? Did I get that wrong?
1 hour ago, dhamann said:26.5 waist with a size 12 boot
After using riser plates, what minimum angles can you ride on this setup without drag? I thought size 12 boots would need a waist of 30cm lol
Appreciate your suggestions by the way! I know this board is great deal, but I’m also wondering whether or not my first carving-focused board should be custom made to fit. So I need to get some of the facts right, like vsr and risers.
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Thanks for the info!
I think the width is a little narrow for my back foot angle, and maybe I probably need sidecut to be 10+ for my progression. Still, thank you, and it is a beautiful board!
OES FR 162 wide, kevlar
in For Sale
Posted
Hi, still available? PM’ed as well