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zyzgerry

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    42
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  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Stratton
  • Occupation?
    Data Analyst
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Korua shapes Dart, Bataleon Party Wave plus
  • Current Boots Used?
    Burton Stepon Ion
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    Burton Stepon
  • Snowboarding since
    2020

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  1. Hi, still available? PM’ed as well
  2. Fancy! So is Cordura 500 or 600 Denier a slightly better choice? Not sure how the number going up/down affect the fabric's ability to endure abrasion.
  3. Wow these look really awesome! Did you buy the fabric yourself online and asked a tailor to sew them onto the pants? Or did you DIY entirely? I found something like this on Amazon, is this similar to what you used? I know almost nothing about fabric. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093Y3ZTGD/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
  4. Thank you for the tips! I've browsed a few riser plates mentioned in other posts, like Bomber Power Plates, Donek BX plates, and some others. Pretty expensive from what I've seen, and often not available to buy right now.. Just curious, what does "cant" mean - is it the angle where riser plate lifts the heel (but not toe) ever so slightly?
  5. Because I'm still practicing the heel side carves, I fall a lot. After a few days on the snow, I noticed my newly bought Gore-Tex snow pants started showing signs of damage (see the white section below). My previous snow pants had the exact same problem, and eventually lost its waterproof-ness. I thought Gore-Tex will slow down this from happening, but I guess not really. So I wonder if anyone has found some solution to this? Anything on the market I can buy to mitigate this? Or if I take it to a tailer to sew a extra layer of something on top, what materials I should ask for - or is that gonna help?
  6. If I place the board flat ground on heelside edge, it stands at about 80-85 degrees (guessed) - however, when carving on the snow, the edge will dip into the snow (probably even more so on softer conditions), so I think that will probably reduce the angle I can carve without boot-out, right? At least that's what I think in my head, maybe this isn't a big issue..
  7. Thank you! I didn’t get much boot-out until the last 2 days ago because I was doing even less angulation before, now I’m feeling the fear of boot-out every time as I try to go for more:) I will indeed consider 28.5cm ish width in a new board. I have 2 questions: 1) what’s the benefit of 15 degrees difference between front and rear foot? - noticed from your 27/12 and 39/24. 2) other than donek flux, is there any other board brand&model you would recommend - hopefully one that won’t break the bank either? (Consider that Flux raised my budget plan to ~$900 already, any other good alternatives?). What is your softboot board above? It looks great.
  8. Thanks! Yeah due to my struggle with heel side my body automatically tense up. Will try to be more dynamic!
  9. Thanks! I rotated it by 180 and was able to shift it towards tow edge by like 0.2-0.3 inches. Not much but I will take it Didn't realize the disc is asymmetric. Also appreciate the technique suggestions! Thanks Crack! I will practice those movements. I will give 55 a try as well. I have almost the exact same height and inseam. I'm curious what's your board's waist - given that you ride 27/12 mostly - you must have a very wide board to not have drag right?
  10. Same for me, partly for cost reasons, also partly want to stay flexible, I'd like to stick to soft-boot I just posted a new post asking for some carving technique advices (posted in the wrong forum i think, but don't have a way to change it). If you have any suggestions for me, please do share
  11. I've been learning to carve on softboots and this is kinda my best results so far. This is my 2nd season on snowboarding. I'm at a point that I can get low on toe side, but find it hard to get lower on heel side carve. Equipment: I'm riding Korua Dart, length 160cm, waist 27.9cm, effective edge 123cm. Burton Step-on bindings & Burton Ion Step-on boots (US size 9.5). Stance angles 36/27, stance width 51cm. I started with 30/21 initially, but found myself getting "boot out" on heel side too easily (or "binding-out") - thanks to the huge heel cup of Burton's. I increased my angles to try to mitigate that. With 27 degree on back-foot, I'm not getting any boot-out yet, but I'm sure if I learn to tilt the board more, I will face the issue again, because the heel-cup is still visibly outside the board by 1-2 cm. I'm aware I can probably upgrade my gears to a dedicated carving board, but I'm hoping to get some suggestions on my techniques first. Welcome any critiques on my stance, posture, etc. Thank you for any input in advance! Video
  12. Thanks for sharing! I'm planning to order the same before next season! Haha for sure, techniques always prevails!
  13. What is your board brand and name? Looks so cool!
  14. Looking for a Donek Flux about ~160cm length with ~28cm width. Width is preferably somewhere between 27.8-28.5cm. Length I can be a little flexible, 158-165cm maybe If you have a board that not Donek Flux but with a similar profile (Carving-focused, hammer-head), I'd consider too I live in NJ/NY area, so I can pick up locally if not too far.
  15. Haha I've been waiting to hear someone compare the Gray Desperado & Custom boards like Donek. Thanks for sharing! Yeah most of the top riders in Japan & Korea use very high angles (36/27, 42/30, etc.), and most of the carving boards they make are narrow, don't see many options above 26cm waist - and I was struggling to find something that might suit me from those brands. My next board will probably be Donek Flux, gonna custom it to a 27 or 27.5 cm waist. Hopefully I will be able to quickly fix my bad habits and make my boards worthwhile.
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