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Skahw

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Posts posted by Skahw

  2. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    5 minutes ago, daveo said:

    Then buy it?

    Yeah, but here were some plausible counterwords regarding the sidecut radius.

    The biggest sidecut radius that I have experienced were 12.44m on the Capita Slush Slasher. But that is is a short rocker heavy party board, so that doesnt really count.

    It just worries me a little that@David Kirk even bought a new board to switch from 17m to 14.5m Thats a lot a money.

  3. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I only have the 9 degrees because of the width with of my korua stealth. I would like to ride it more positive for this board when its not too wide.

    The BX169/17:
    Mat.: T
    Weight kg: 70-80
    Stiffness: M
    Width mm: 259
    Stance mm: 550
    Nose: medium
    Tail: comp

    actually sound okay imo. It's titanal, 169 long, with a good waist width. Just the 17 meters sidecut... 
    As I have stated I like to ride long drawn out carves at high relatively high speed. I am not that interested in tighter carves on this board. Maybe 17 meters would be exactly made for those wide carves. But maybe 14.5 is already enough for that, I dont know. 500€ just sound way more attractive than 800€.

  4. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted · Edited by Skahw
    gramma

    9 minutes ago, wulf said:

    I have the impression you want to "cure" lack of technique by buying new boards. That might not work. 

    You want to carve like the Korua guys. You have a Korua board and a bunch of others. But you cannot ride like these guys in the video. So the natural solution is to work on your technique rather that buying new gear.

     

    Food for thought...😎

    Well with the right technique you are always better, for sure. An olympian winner could destroy every one of us with just a capita slush slasher. But wouldn't make it easier for him.

    I do not want to ride exactly like the guys in the korua video. I DO ride like them, thats why I picked the video. And I like my style and want to keep it. I just want to leave out the sidehits and I want the sidecut to feel a bit more stable. 1200mm isnt much for 194.

    13 minutes ago, daveo said:

    @Skahw Kinda feel like a P-1 170/10/278 might be better for you than a BX board... Have you considered one?

    From that list, surely the 169/14.5 is the one.

    Seems like you also have the updated list! 😄
    The P-1 170/10/278 is exactly on there. 

    To be honest, I do not know what the different between a BX and P-1 board is. But its waist width is HUGE!
     

  5. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    5 minutes ago, daveo said:

     

    @Skahw Can you show me specs of the boards that were suggested for you? I'm curious to see.

    BX169/14.5:
    Mat.: T
    Weight kg: 70-80
    Stiffness: M
    Width mm: 259
    Stance mm: 510/550/590
    Nose: medium
    Tail: medium

    BX169/17:
    Mat.: T
    Weight kg: 70-80
    Stiffness: M
    Width mm: 259
    Stance mm: 550
    Nose: medium
    Tail: comp

    BX169/17:
    Mat.: C
    Weight kg: 70-80
    Stiffness: M
    Width mm: 269
    Stance mm: 560/600
    Nose: medium
    Tail: comp

  6. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted · Edited by Skahw

    10 minutes ago, daveo said:

    Well, that's reassuring!

    It started to sound like you wanted to go for world record flat base bombs and I was hoping you had good health insurance and an even better lawyer.

    Yeah, I had little time writing that "I actually want to go as fast as possible with that board"-post. That didnt describe it that well.


    Better words would be: Long drawn out carves in a crouched position to maintain speed.

    @daveoI love your new pb. That black on black style looks awesome!

  8. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted · Edited by Skahw
    mentioning sidehits

    5 hours ago, daveo said:

    That's very disappointing to read. I hope something is missing from there.

    People with that approach often end up in hospital or end up putting others in hospital.

    "as fast as possible" doesnt describe it that well. I do not want to go flatbase down the hill. Thats would be a little boring and flat base riding gives little control.

    This Korua Shapes Yearning for turning video decribes my kind of riding/carving very well: 

    (I bet you have seen it before, and some of you might not like it)

    The thumbnail is a bit misleading as it shows an eurocarve / very low carve and thats not how they ride in the video.

    Sometimes I am carving with 90 degrees to the fall line but that depends on the speed I am having atm. But most of the time I am carving like these guys in the video. Especially my posture is the same. I heavily lean forward and crouch most of the time to not get slown down by the wind.

    That is what I mean with "as fast as possible". Still carving, not flat basing, but crouched carves down the hill. But I wouldnt do sidehits with this board. Thats what my korua board is made for. But the 1200mm edge doesnt feel like its enough.

  9. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    38 minutes ago, David Kirk said:

    Would i spend more for the shorter radius? - yes. In fact I did. I had the Oxess BX board with a 17m radius and I liked it a lot. I just felt the radius was a bit long for the speeds I wanted to go on the trails I typically ride so I ordered a new board with the 14.5.

    I actually want to go as fast as possible with that board. Therefore 17m would fit maybe. But that might be too sketchy if the track is too narrow. difficult decision

    • Sad 1

  10. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    3 hours ago, David Kirk said:

    I'm not sure if this directly applies or not but it can't hurt -

    FWIW - my experience says that one should match the sidecut radius to the speed you want to go and the width of the trails you ride. Boards with a very tight radius (like the 7.9M in the OP) are not comfortable being ridden at a high speed with a high edge angle (very tight turns at a high speed try to beak the laws of physics) so they need to be ridden at either a lower speed or a lower edge angle.

    One thing that is almost never discussed is that the torsional rigidity of a board is paramount to its precision and stability....and of course some boards are stiffer in torsion than others. At the same time one needs to recognize how every board works, regardless of its sidecut or its inherent torsional stiffness.

    When a board is flat it's relatively easy to twist it. It's just the nature of a flat plane. But when you bend it into an arc the torsional stiffness goes through the roof. The arc itself makes it MUCH harder to twist. You can try this with a good old fashioned metal ruler while sitting at your desk. With the ruler flat twist it and note the resistance. Now bend it into an arc and try to twist it. It will be much harder to twist. The tighter the arc the stiffer it gets. A board is the same way.

    Why does this matter? Well a board will be the most stable, and have the best edge bite, when it's bent into a tight arc because the torsional stiffness is the greatest this way....in practice it means that the edge angle of the tip of the board will more closely match the edge angle under your feet (less twist) and this will make it dig hard and be more stable. With that said a board with a very tight radius can't be ridden at a high speed with a high edge angle. If the short radius board is ridden at a higher speed it will need to be at a lower edge angle which in turn means that it will be not be bent into a tight arc...which in turn means that the torsional stiffness will be low...which means that it will not be as stable. So you have a board that becomes inherently unstable at speed....higher speed, low edge angle and low torsional stiffness don't play nice together.

    One other thing...a short radius board can be ridden hard and deep by a very skilled rider. I can hear some here saying that they can carve their 8m board hard and I believe you. That said it takes more skill to do so. All the movements the rider needs to make to get a deep tight care to happen need to happen in a shorter time period and this is harder to do. Most will think that that is counter intuitive and that going faster is harder than going slower. I get it. But if I were advising a moderate level rider as to board choice the board would have a medium radius and never a super short one. It's just easier to ride and more rewarding most of the time.

    I hope that makes sense. I've not finished my morning coffee so who knows!

    dave

     

     

     

    Thanks Dave. That was very helpful!

    Were you able to try out your new 14.5 Radius board or will you have to wait for the next season?
    It would be very interesting to see how these sidecutradius differences change the board behavior.

    I you were me would you spend 50% on top to get the 14.5 instead of 17m radius?

  11. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I've contacted Oxess Boards and they sent me some example boards that might fit to my needs.

    Three 169cm boards do look premising. One has a 14.5m sidecut radius and is made of Titanal, but its a bit expensive.
    The other two boards have a 17m sidecut radius. One is made of Titanal and is 50€ more expensidive and the other one my of Carbon. I guess the 50€ would be worth it, right?

    And here comes my question. Does somebody have experiences with such a huge sidecut radius?

     

  13. Rossignol Undertaker, SG Force 165, UPZ RC10, Apex V2 plate and some.

    in For Sale

    Posted

    43 minutes ago, TLN said:

    I'm in Chicago. Will ship UPS Ground, as I prefer em over USPS. I got some board packaging from past boards so it should be pretty easy.

    Stance will depend on your boot size. I got US11-12 boots, and for duck I'll need 270-280 if not more. I also got Burton Elevators if needed.

    I live in germany. So yeah... not gonna happen. 

    I have US9 so that shouldnt be such a big problem.

  15. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    10 hours ago, rst said:

    it's good board, but it requires certain level of skill, if you are ready to improve, go for it

    I will look into the sales of Oxess boards first. 
    When all of the boards are way to expensive, I will play the waiting game until the 2021 version in 166W of the F2 Elimnators are less expensive. (All earlier 166W versions are sold out)

    10 hours ago, rst said:

    if you are riding a board, you do not see top sheet, it's covered with snow... I really do not care how topsheet looks unless it's custom board and I have to pick one

    On groomers I can see the board, but in good powder you are right.
    The looks are not in my top criteria, but the huge "Eliminator" logo looks like its made for 6 year old kids tho...
    However, it might be fitting! 😂

    And when I really cant stand the looks, I'll might just get some black vinyl wrap and cover the topsheet.
    Does somebody have experience with that? Does it peel off too fast or might it even change the boardfeel to a certain degree?

  16. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted · Edited by Skahw

    12 hours ago, daveo said:

    LOL! Goon. Time to move to Australia I think. You'll fit right in.

    When corona is gone I will certainly go on a vacation to Australia. I just hope that no giant frog or sth is going to eat me 😄

    12 hours ago, daveo said:

    You know what ... maybe email Marcel and tell him what you are after and ask him for a recommendation from his sale list because you want to try his boards without paying the high price for a custom. Every Oxess board is custom and hand made. There is no large production facility, just a small workshop.

    I have just called Heinz and he is going to send me a selection of boards that could fit my needs.
    But first they are going on a 2 days vacation. I lowkey envy them, cause I am learning for an examn right now...
    He really seems to be a kind and funny person!

  17. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    3 minutes ago, daveo said:

    Well, maybe for world cup athletes, but for scrubs like me it probably wouldn't make a difference haha.

    Elim is a great board man, rest assured! Plus, it is German! (assuming you're German, this may be appealing)

    Yeah well I do not really care where its from. If any it would be a contra, because it woudnt be as rare here! 😄 And I wanna be a special boy 
    Also the topsheet of the F2 boards look awful, I dont know what my german fellas smoked while design that

    The #20426 looks like the perfect board. But why is it so much more expensive? Not cool

  19. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    5 minutes ago, daveo said:

    Don't think this is true. But it might very well be unecessary. As your angles increase above say 21degrees-ish you start to lose leverage over your edge in softboots. In saying that, the last time I rode softboots, I was at 33 front I think. Many people stiffen their softboot laterally to run higher angles. But as you go higher, you also lose the advantage softboots have.

    Well I already ride 27+ on front foot. Thats more than 21 degree. And I might try more next time...
    But yeah, I think softboots are fine.

     

    7 minutes ago, daveo said:

    You'll need to talk to Marcel to discuss that. A new Oxess is EUR1600, so even though 513 seems like a lot of money, it wouldn't even cover the raw material cost, let alone labour or depreciation on equipment involved to manufacture the board. Off the shelf options like the F2 Elim will always be cheaper and are great, though.

    1600€? Jesus! Thats a lot. Then they truely have to be better than F2 Elim boards.
    From the new list I was looking at #17338. But its waist width will be too narrow, when looking at the table above.

  20. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    47 minutes ago, JRAZZ said:

     

    image.png.4da6ca84543e6b9e01c367505e306178.png

     

    For a size 9 boot (approx 29cm BSL) these will be the widths on 12, 21 and 30 degrees. You can usually accommodate about 1cm per side without much problems unless you're really laying it down.  So subtract 2cm from each to get the MINIMUM board width at the binding position (notice, this is usually the rear position). Subtract another 1cm for the waist width.

    Again, this is the absolute minimum width you would need to have a reasonable chance of riding without bootout.  The more you lay it over the more boot drag will be a thing.

     

    BTW, I have a Korua Cafe Racer and have tried the Bullet Train. They are awesome boards that are very capable so if that's your direction they are excellent choices which carve well and are a blast in almost any condition.

    Thanks for those numbers!

    I already own a Korua Stealth. A Cafe Racer would overlap too much, I guess.

    38 minutes ago, daveo said:

    He's riding 9deg rear at the moment. Can you calc it?

    I have tried 12deg rear and I liked it equally as much. So that shouldnt be a problem at all. 
    I didnt try more, but I guess I wouldnt have a problem with even more.

    50 minutes ago, JRAZZ said:

    image.png.4da6ca84543e6b9e01c367505e306178.png

    I guess I have to take the lower angle of both right?
     

  22. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    32 minutes ago, daveo said:

    @Skahw

    Found a technical engineering diagram that may be of use to you. Obviously you'd replace the hardboots with your softboots.

    fuego.jpg.e31e55f137239d973ab72a5fe66ab2

    I will do that tomorrow! 
    Never thought about a hardboot setup. I bought my Salomon Malamutes and the Rome Cleaver bindings for carving. I cant return them, so it seems like I will stick with the very stiff softboot setup. 

    Maybe I'll get the chance to try out hardboots some day. But also gettting a hardboot setup would be too expensive... and it might overlap too much.

    1 hour ago, daveo said:

    F2 Eliminator boards have a good reputation for a reason, but like what someone else said, maybe getting the titanal version might be the idea you're after.

    But that ouwld be 599€. 250 bucks for more dampening? I dont know 😅

     

     

    1 hour ago, daveo said:

    There are some Oxess boards in the sale section made for 70kg riders (racers), you may consider those... Board #17035 looks particularly good, maybe a bit short at 159, the rest are a bit narrow until you get to board #16466 but the sidecut is quite big at 16 (but that may not bother you if you want to "bomb" down and not carve). Only EUR513, also.

    http://www.oxess.ch/files/51/bx-boards-sale.pdf

    Well 16 is huge, maybe too much for my taste. I would try to keep it between 10 and 13 😄

    Do you think these prices are fixed or might it be possible to get an even better deal when calling them? 513€ is still a lot of money

  23. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    8 minutes ago, daveo said:

    If you are carving, then you definitely want the wide versions of the board with a boot angle of 9 and size US9. Otherwise you'll have overhang and boot out. 

    I wouldnt have a problem with going for higher angles than 9 on my backfoot

    19 minutes ago, Corey said:

    Maybe a silly question, but in your 'bombing' runs, are you making S-shaped turns that leave 1-2 cm wide tracks? i.e. what we define as carving. Not skidding. 

    Not meant as an insult in any way. The average snowboarder and skier that talks about bombing down runs makes fast skidded turns, so sidecut radius matters less than you'd think for them. Toe & heel overhang don't matter as much either. 

    This was 100% me a while ago. Fast skidded turns; thought I was awesome because I went faster than most. 

    Hmm, at lower speeds I can carve in a S-shape and with rather thin tracks. But when I am going faster it's more skidding tbh. But I think that could also be cause of the tight sidecut radius making the turns to narrow, which makes them wash out with too much speed. That would change with a bigger sidecut radius, I guess.

  24. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted · Edited by Skahw

    17 minutes ago, daveo said:

    Definitely go the wide version! 

    Why exactly? US9 boots arent taht big, are they?
    The 166W version would cost 559€. Thats a whole lot more than the 349€.

    At that point the 
    - F2 Eliminator Carbon* in 166W**
    (Flex: 9/10, effective edge: 1240mm, sidecut radius: 13,3m, waist width 257mm)
    for 499€ 1000€

    would be cheaper.

    Im looking into Apex, but I cant find any prices. Might call them tomorrow.
     

  25. Nidecker Spectre - too deep sidecut? (7.9 m Sidecut Radius on 168)

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    16 minutes ago, rst said:

    taking price into account I'd say

    - F2 Eliminator WC TX - Carbon/Kevlar* in 163**
    (Flex: 7/10, effective edge: 1440mm, sidecut radius: 13,2m, waist width 254mm)
    for 349€ 700€

     

    Thanks for your suggestion. 
    Do you think 163 will be enough? The 166W version would be more expensive.

     

    I am thinking about getting this one. But the topsheet just looks awful. Is using vinyl wrap a legitimat option or will it go of too easy or even change the board feel?

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