scottishsurfer
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Posts posted by scottishsurfer
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On 10/22/2022 at 9:55 AM, philw said:
I don't put my hands down, I think. I put a lot of effort in my early years teaching myself not to throw them around at all. But then I'm not deliberately trying to get low, I'm just holding the edge... so I think I arch my back toe-side (depending on the turn type...) and face more sideways on the heel, if that makes sense. Each to their own, whatever works.
I can turn without putting a hand down but i tend to do it as a balance aid and to also give me a reference of what snow is actually like due to not really being able to feel whats going on under my feet. I think there is a fair bit of difference between puting a hand down as a balance aid where its touching but not providing any sort of support to one where the hand actually has weight upon and your effectively tripoding around the turn.....
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Unless your riding duck stance id say go with either the flux or incline if your looking at the donek range.
I personally have an Incline you can read my thoughts on it here and see some footage of me riding it. I dont have any experience of the coiler but they do have a good reputation that im sure others will be able to expand on.
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53 minutes ago, 1xsculler said:
if done with cars around, to be an extremely risky behavior especially for a 78 year old
I dont know what the area you live in is like but Id suggest something more like XC or Gravel riding if you want to avoid cars.
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16 hours ago, SunSurfer said:
Riding a non electric mountain bike as fast as you feel comfortable will tick every one of those boxes plus it's done outside and it's actually fun in its own right.
Defintely this
. I also tend to climb in the highest gear i can manage to climb the hill, I know its not the most effiecent but it does wonders if your after sheer power and dont mind grinding your way up hills at a slow cadence.
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I'm of the everything tossed into a blender school(bit of BASI/CASI/Asian/Hard boot styles) of carving but my best bit of advice is to make liberal use of the youtube 1/4 speed setting and study good riders very closely and watch what there doing. The other bit of advice is that like everything repetion is key i've probably spent over the fabled 10000 hours practising and honing my turns. Have paitence it wont come overnight but delight in small gradual improvements youll see over time
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56 minutes ago, Pat Donnelly said:
158 Blade Plus is 132 to 165 lbs
i hate that so many boards are essentially built for kids or someone built like the side of a sheet of paper when it comes to weight
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Id much rather hit those jumps on a bike thats for sure. In your vids they defintely look well made with a nice sense of flow which is what my local jump spot is missing
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I think it was instagram but i saw a vid of a lass hit a very steep dirt jump on one
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fixed it for some reason i typed winter instead of summer
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Got out for a Summer solstice ride last night probably one of my favorite solo rides this year.
Heres a couple of vids to give you an idea of what the riding is like around my local area, I imagine its fairly different terrain to what most of you ride
Lots of grass is defintely interesting in the wet
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I really like the Raaw bikes it and the Privateer were at the top of the list before i got the nukeproof mega but the mega was a deal i just couldnt turn down.
One of the things i do like about them are that they are raw ally which ive always liked as a finish and is pretty much what ill do to my current bikes once the paint is tatty. Here's my old Meta 4x in the raw-
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I have 2 bikes i tend to alternate between.
Nukeproof mega 275(650b), this my general do everything bike its very stable and is very much the enduro bike that rides like a DH bikes on descents but is light enough to pedal back up if your not to bothered about how fast you climb. It was bought as complete but at this point everything short of the frame shock and forks has been replaced with my preferred parts.The other is my Commencal Meta 4x where the Mega is stable reliable and forgiving this is the complete opposite. I'll often liken it to a 1980s supercar with far to much power with terrible tyres in the rain, its an exciting ride but you really need to always be on your A game as it will get you into alot of trouble very quickly. Being a 26inch 4x bike it excels on being efficent when sprinting and hitting jumps and with its short travel(130/100mm) it makes an excellant hooligans trail bike for an experienced rider. It is the right kind of stupid so ill often take it for a spin if im riding with less experienced friends so i can alot of fun no matter the trail grade.
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12 minutes ago, Odd Job said:
Have you thought about bypassing them and sending an email to Union complaining about the UK support? Just throw someone under the bus to get them to work.
A friend got it sorted for me awhile ago at a tradeshow when he spoke to them directly but dealing with union and capita by extention in the uk is not a fun experience
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4 hours ago, Odd Job said:
I've been enjoying the Union Atlas FC's; lifetime warranty on highback/baseplate == also cost effective.
The Warranty situation in the uk with union is pretty terrible as you have to deal with the uk distro rather than union themselves and they are like trying to get blood out of stone when it comes to trying to get a response let alone parts....
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I'm probably guilty of rodeo hand but i dont really care
If im having fun turning and finding the sense of flow i really could care less how pretty my carving is to other people.
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I actually used to the ride the 159xt soul(board in my profile pic) its a pretty good first proper dedicated carving board its a little soft in the nose than i liked but other than that it was very capable. I agree with Jack your probably going to be a little happier with the 164xt if you find your booting out with the dart
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7 hours ago, slapos said:
1. Benny says there is no carving possible with duck stance
(see recording in the post above
Looks at board set up mild duck then looks at instagram to double check he didnt dream having benny as follower and then feels confused
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Looks like you had a trip i could only ever dream of
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@softbootsurfer I come at from a different direction but achieve I think the same result with my diy tongue inserts + booster strap stop my boots from flexing at the ankles. So if they are securely strapped down by the ankle and toe straps im pretty sure the end effect is the same as your three strap setup.
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8 hours ago, i8summer said:
Now o-drive are sick! I wonder how efficient the skate tech technology is ? And do they have canted foot bed ?
They don't they are good bindings and many like them but theyd need a few tweaks to be fully great i reckon. highback rotation, moveable/slimer heel cup and canting options would bring would be improvments id be wanting
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1 hour ago, Jack M said:
My understanding is that many Asian softboot carvers are significantly modifying/fortifying their gear, like with internal plastic battens in the boots, lace-up braces over the liners, and plastic tongues added to bindings.
Exibit A my not so soft boots
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There what the A10 ride bindings replaced a metal chassis + metal disks and a carbon highback making it the stiffest binding in there line-up
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I'm 0 base 87 degree side kind of guy it is catchy but you get used to it and i feel(most likely placebo) that edge engagement is more definte and performance dealing with Ice is better than having a slight bevel. I wouldnt reccomend it for most people if im honest but its largely a personal preference thing.
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1 hour ago, svr said:
4. Boots (wish there was a driver X version)
My gut instinct is there not making one to reduce the leverage that can be applied laterally to the rear locking system
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Heard it in the Lift Line: 2021-2022
in Carving Central
Posted
Is that hemel hempsted? riding hards indoors gets interesting looks