lonerider

All but the Head liners are sold.

Hi, my Intec cables are shredded and I need to get a pair before I can safely ride again (or risk getting "stuck" in my bindings when the cable breaks). BOL is out of them for the year, I checked hardbooter.com and exoticboards.com (waiting on replies) anyone have a spare set they can sell me? Thanks

Yes, by default you should aim for the sweet spot in the middle of the range. For you... to save money, just roam the classifieds and look for a board in the 165-175cm range with 9.5-11.5m SCR where you are on the mid to high end of the weight range (this will be easier for you to flex starting out) and RIDE.No matter what board you are going to ride, your preferences are going to develop and change. BlueB has the right idea with his armada of boards (I have a small battle group myself). That's awesome about your plan to hit the gym. Last November, my cholesterol had gone from 176 to 184 and so I decided to work on that. I just avoided fried/greasy/tasty foods (it's okay to have a tasty hamburger or a burrito once a week... but ALWAYS pass on the eggs, french fries, onion rings, chips/salsa, or any salad with croutons/caesar dressing) while still eating hefty portions (sometimes I still order two entrees) and I dropped my cholesterol to 125 in a year. A side effect of this (since fatty foods have about 3 times the number of calories) was that I dropped 10% of my body weight.

~99,000 posts in this forum

Peter, as people said, as long as you are gentle on initiating the carve so as not to drive the square corner into the snow. You can carve pretty hard, you just need to ride a little bit in the back seat. Boardski, a square tail gives you more effective edge and well let you hold onto the end of the carve tell the *very end* so you can load up the tail and air into your next carve. At least thats what it seems like to me. I could be wrong. Lol, the whole week you've been posting on BOL? "I keed I keed" It's all in good fun. I have been wrong many many times... maybe I'll get wiser with age. Anyways, I meant to say mixing up frontside/boardslide is an honest mistake and that a lot of people make... myself included! I'm just saying be careful when correct someone on terminology, especially when you might be wrong... or a few decades out of date. Hehe, yet another cliched comeback. The previous one was when you were like "Well whatevers, while you fiddle with this Internet thing... I'm going to be snowboarding"Other amusing inane reples are posts that follow Godwin's Law. Rick-roll posts (stupidest thing ever... do NOT click on that link). Or my personal favorite. BUNNY WITH PANCAKE :D

As Phil pointed out, this is incorrect. The origins of the terminology are from surfing, and have to do with the front or backside of your body facing the wave as you make the turn. It's all very confusing to snowboarders who don't have the background. Yea, I only learned proper boardslide/lipslide terminology a few years ago myself when I was learning to do frontside boardslides. Before that I was wrong like Photodad. Eh, live and learn.As Phil mentioned, you can approach all the basic boxes and rails straight on... but as you progress, there will be park elements that are too high to approach straight on and you have to come at an angle... that's where frontside/backside boardslide/lipslide terminology is still important. Here's a video on how to do a backside lipslide and you can agree it look way more difficult than your typical frontside boardslide.

:lol: I love when people use that reply as a "tactical retreat." Ah, newcomers are always entertaining.Hey Peter, are you going to be riding more this season? I'll be happy to work with you in the park at KW. Last weekend, the liftlines were long, so were were just hiking the top kicker and working on spins. I can grab my backside 360s... but it's so quick... like I grab at 180 and let go at 270... lol. I've been also working on "true" frontside/backside boardslides (i.e. approach a tall down rail from the side and jump over and onto the rail nose first).

That's how it was around a decade ago, but times have changed... you mentioned Kemper in another post, it's gone basically so and Sim is also not much of a factor in the "brave new world" of snowboarding. Switch is the commonly accepted term now... maybe in another tens year it will switch back.

Hey all... I'm going to be switching my BTS from my old Raichles to my new Head Stratos Pro. I've read the main "Head BTS" thread from a year ago and from reading Bosco's instructions... the main thing I need is a drill with a 3/16" drill bit and some 3/16" bolts with the head cutoff (so that existing BTS pins don't work). I remove the original mechanism and then flex the boot to the flex I want... then I take the BTS (set to neutral position with the nuts unscrewed as far out as possible without exposing any inner threads) and mark where the top hole is (very carefully) and then I drill through.Am I missing anything... anyone who has done this have any extra tips to add? Thanks

Each time you bake the liners they get a little thinner... officially you can remold them 6 times (http://bomberonline.com/store/accessories/liners.cfm). The one that is bake more has also been used more (put into 3 pairs of boots). The prices I've listed are cheaper than what you can usually get since I just got a foam liner (Comformable) and am pretty sure I'll never go back (will ride them this weekend) and now I just want to clear out my closet space.They aren't super hard to mold so long as your plan ahead and follow all the steps (here is link to how to do it at home - http://yyzcanuck.com/E_tech_cooking.htm). If you are worried most ski shops will do it for $40 (or free if you buy footbeds with will also help with your flat feet) Hope the helps.

I'm selling my extra heat moldable liners. I have two pairs of fully moldable Raichle (Deeluxe) Thermofit liners, size 24.5. One pair has been heat molded once (asking for $60), one pair have been heat molded twice (asking for $40). I will sell both for $80. I also have one pair of brand new Thermofit Liners from Head size 25.5. Never molded. Came out of a pair of 2008 Head Stratos Pros. Asking for $90. Let me know.

First to avoid knee jerk reactions I will say that a softboot cannot carve as hard as a hardboot... but you should only really notice the difference at the top end (i.e. carving deeper on steeper slopes at high speeds). Taking that into account, you should easily be able to rip some big carves at medium speed (~35 mph). It could be people are talking about screaming down a slope at GS race speeds... but I seem to doubt that. Ignoring the other things woodworkmoney said... I agree with his comment that if you NEED stiffer boots to carve (especially stiffening up a pair of Malamutes)... then you need to work on better leg strength and technique because you are depending too much on the stiffness of the boot to do the work for you.

I agree with Dr D and Carvedog... while it's the same idea on a softboot board (get the board up on edge and your weight balanced over it) a lot of hardbooters try to do *exactly* the same thing as they do on their alpine boards and that' s the wrong technique... also softboot aren't as stiff, so you need to use more of your own lower leg muscle that *ahem* some hardbooters have not be working out for a while having their ankles encased in 5 pounds of stiff plastic.I just got back from five days of riding, I was on a Prior Khyber 160 split and softboots riding ~4 feet of fresh powder (photo of my lodge the first and second days of the storm) and while I had my brand new Head Stratos Pro and a wide Coiler in my car, I never looked back. If you find that you can't ride softboot and freeride boards anymore, that's not because the board sucks... it's because you ...

Lashed are ultrasoft... I would go with the Forecast (med stiff) or Team Two (med) at least.

I have ordered two boards and have gotten both on time (one was delivered Dec 15). I suspect the holiday period might be a slow time.

If the boot is too loose, heat molding isn't going to help you. The liner only really squishes outward to avoid pressure points. You are going to need to buy some foam inserts and stick them around your liners to fill in the space... check out Tognar.com and look for C-pads or Ankle-wraps.

Everything you just said is completely applicable to the softboot to hardboot transition as well. Your feet take a lot of abuse from the stiff board and bindings, your joints are aching because you are unuse to the high angles and you probably have the stance width, cant and lift adjusted wrong on the first go and need to tweak them... you are booting out because you didn't bother to get a wide enough board (notice how people are now moving away from 16-17cm boards to 19-20cm waisted boards) or set the angles properly...If everyone were to quit hardbooting because of that, there would be no new more hardbooters (oh wait... that's almost true). Really, it's all about how much money and effort you put into it... and frankly we are all getting too old and too lazy

I'm right here with ya... but the world is against us!

I rode a pair of 2001 Dialogues and 2002 Dialogues at angles up to 36 degree without problem. I don't think you can really go past 45 degrees in the front for any softboot. If you are worried about stiffness the Salomon Malamute should have the same fit, but be even stiffer (I have a pair of 2005-06 and they are nice).Another boot to look at is the Nitro Darkseids - I think if the Salomon fit you these will fit you as well (especially if you have skinny ankles). Stiff, better heel pocket and ankle hold - better lacing system in my opinion.

Yes, I always ride powder in my softboots - they are still my preferred setup for freestyle and powder. I have ridden softboots and straps 30-40 days a year for the past ten years and not only do I like them... I still prefer them for general riding where I might be carving up some steeps for a while... then hit the park for some jumps and rails... and particularly for powder. I find them more versatile personally (no question that hardbooters have more power in their carves) Although that could be because at 140-145 lbs... even the softer boots are still kind of stiff for me. I suspect that many of the die-hards here tend to be bigger guys (over 200 lbs) and so they need the support hardboots give them... while obviously softboots don't given that type of support... I've found since I'm lighter, I need less support than they do I can support myself using my muscles instead of plastic.Actually... another problem is despite what everyone here says... I have not found hardboots particularly comfortable. I have purchased 3 pairs of hardboots in three sizes (one size too big, one size too small) and have tried 3 heat molded liners and gone for 3 bootfitters and have had 3 sets of custom footbeds and I still find hardboots more uncomfortable (again I think it's because I'm not as big as everyone else). This season, I sold my extra snowboards to get brand new set of boots with foam liners... and I hope that will do the trick... else I might stop riding hardboots because they hurt my feet too much (can only got half a day in them). I personally agree with D-Sub in his observation that most hardbooter don't "get" softboots. They go with a super stiff Catek FR2 and like Salomon Malamute or Burton Driver and then try to ride the board like a alpine setup... you are going to be disappointed if you are going to try that - they just have the wrong philosophy - kind of like Hawaii T-shirt day at the office - if you are a stiff and uptight... it doesn't matter what you are wearing.

Lol... yea I'm sure everyone here has at least another 4 pages of hot air before some just posts a video. My money is on 6 pages.I'm *not* saying that you no-video-all-talk posters are big-fat liars, just that the point is to find a video as there are plenty of posts already before this thread talking about it. We all have stories about it - heck I was introduced to hardboots when an alpine rider saw me trying to do 360 carved at Kirkwood on a freestyle board - I don't know if what I did technically counts since my loop was more of a rollercoaster teardrop shape and while I was on edge... I was going like 5 mph after the 270 part. But getting back to the point... <img src=http://i5.tinypic.com/8abx6pi.gif> Or video in this case.

I know you are a lazy person and too lazy to bother to actually read all the post in the thread (like last time you completely were something wrong because you posted before reading the entire thread - remember? you admitted it)... so here. Again... Vahur (original poster) specifically asked for VIDEO... not talk as he's seen loads of it talk, but no videos. I totally believe some of you have done it... but we want to SEE IT, else you are wasting bandwidth. Do-you-understand-the-words-coming-out-my-mouth?

I'm still seeing a lot of talk about it "I did it a long time ago...", "my friend did it", "some other story of a Bigfoot sighting." ;) Now I'm not trying to censor anyone by discouraging them from posting their empty claims... but this thread is asking for a VIDEO of it because they are already dozens of posts talking about it... just no video... and that's what I, Vahur, Carvedog, and others want. So please, if you don't have a video to back up your talk, please consider not posting until you do

Bent Metal Burnt Resin (Boot Sizes 7-9) - asking for $60. With Burton capstraps - $90. Ridden about 6 times. Nidecker 800 Pro (Boot Sizes 7-9), ridden about 6 times asking for $90.