SunSurfer
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Posts posted by SunSurfer
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Hi Andy,
Not having a plate in front of me when I wrote the post above I made an error.
The axle moves with the plate, not the board, so the only advantage is the solid feel underfoot.
Alan
I'm obviously hallucinating through lack of snow. It's been nearly 18 months since I last rode. Only 6 more weeks till I get another fix!
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Things to consider.
In my 29.5 mondo hardboots the centre of the ball of my foot is approx. 6.5cm in front of boot sole centre.
In the depths of a carved turn, as the snowboard bends, the sliding axle will move between 5-10mm (millimetres) towards the centre of the plate. (Error - board moves relative to axle)
The wider the axle units are apart, the greater the length of the board that is torsionally stiffened by the plate mounted above it, and the greater will be the movement of the sliding axle.
For more rider ability to twist the board use a softer plate.
On the boards where I have added UPM pattern inserts, I have centred the pattern on the centre of the effective edge. On my custom plate optimised Coiler NSR, I place the axles equidistant from the centre of the insert pattern as BV placed it.
I setup my plate and bindings equidistant from the same centre of the insert pattern.
I always have the ball of my front foot over or behind the front axle.
For preference I like the maximum stiffness so mount my axles as far apart as possible.
Edit re fixed axle at front to come.
Since Benjamin Karl started this whole plate thing the vast majority of plates have had their sliding axles at the front. Why? Noone has ever been able to give me a reasoned answer.
Meanwhile many riders complain about a lack of "feel" underfoot.
All the sliding axle mechanisms I know of have some slop in them, even Fin's beautifully machined Bomber plates.
Every sliding axle mounted at the front will move relative to the rider's front foot as they turn. (Error- axle attached to plate, board moves in relation to axle - see post below)
With the fixed axle at the front you'll get a solid and unchanging relationship between axle position and the crucial front foot.
Meanwhile the board will flex underneath as always, the riders weight and lean transmitted only through the two axle mechanisms.
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Now slice the other boot of each pair horizontally, parallel to the sole.
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Fin,
The graphs of boot profile at the end of the article seem to assume the width in the boot shell is symmetrically distributed. Is that actually the case, or are the boot cavities asymmetric?
I thought that the boot shell was straighter on the inside of the foot and more curved on the outside of the foot.
Trying to determine how the width is distributed just from the photos introduces significant inaccuracies unless all the photos were taken at exactly the same position for each section.
Can you re-measure and graph both sides of the boot shell profile, showing how the width changes on both sides as the sections progress?
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No experience with QuiverKillers. I've just looked at the website and they look like a useful product, assuming that they have an insert that takes an M6 thread.
I've drilled a number of older snowboards to put UPM pattern inserts in. I use a pre-Ptex'd brass inserts I picked up from a French website.
http://www.worden.fr/boutique-worden-snowboard-multi-inserts-9-mm-les-10-unites-,111624.html
To drill the board I recommend using a drill press rather than hand holding a drill to ensure that the holes (and inserts) end up perpendicular to the base of the board.
1/ Mark out the pattern on the top of the board.
2/ Drill a pilot hole for each insert using a small bit, from the top of the board to the bottom, with the board clamped to the drill press table. I use a 3mm bit.
3/ Turn the board over and and use a brace bit that matches the size of the insert P-Tex (16mm) to create the round hole in the P-Tex base for the insert. Drill just through the P-Tex and no more. The pilot hole drilled from the other side is used to centre to brace bit.
4/ Use a countersink bit to create the rebate for the conical shape of the insert. The angle is 110 degrees on the insert but I only have 90 degree countersink bits available. Be careful not to drill the countersink too deep.
5/ Now turn the board over again and drill a hole from the top sheet side big enough to take the threaded side of the insert. I use a 9mm bit.
6/ Test the position of each insert before epoxying into place. Ideally the inserts sit with less than 1mm of P-Tex protruding above the base surface, but are also not below the base surface. This means they can be made level by a base grind or similar after being fixed in place.
7/ Epoxy the inserts into place and leave to cure.
8/ To level the base either get your local shop to do a base grind OR take a metal ruler with a 90 degree edge. Make sure it is well sharpened and carefully scrape the proud insert P-Tex back to the base level for a near perfect finish.
NB: It is not recommended to drill a metal cored board for new inserts as you will weaken the metal layer. The metal is predrilled for the intended inserts prior to layup when they are made.
The inserts I use are available from a number of sources. Wintersteiger make a kit which includes a special drill bit to drill both the base and the countersink part to an exact fit for the inserts but it's rather pricey.
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Damn, I'm going to have to spend a fortnight in Aspen again in Feb 2015! Aspen Anesthesia is running 1-8 Feb.
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And so it begins.
Fields don't open till early June but a cold southerly weather pattern has brought first snows to skifields in both the North & South Island.
Cardrona (Sth Island) looks like you could ride it today!
Turoa on Mt Ruapehu (Nth Island). With its' rocky volcanic surfaces Turoa really needs at least a metre of snow depth to be rideable.
Hanging out for my first trip to the snow in late July.
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:lol:What my friend Lowrider needs is to get Bruce or Sean to build him a 200cm board with a sidecut radius so tight he can see his own backside in the distance when he turns!:lol:
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As close to a definitive answer as you'll get!
https://sites.google.com/site/compendiumofphysicalactivities/Activity-Categories/winter-activtities
and for anyone who wants to check out almost ANY type of other physical activity start here.
https://sites.google.com/site/compendiumofphysicalactivities/Activity-Categories
A MET is equal to the energy produced per unit surface area of an average person seated at rest and is equivalent to an oxygen consumption of 3.5 ml/kg/min. The surface area of an average person is 1.8 m2 (19 ft2). Metabolic rate is usually expressed in terms of unit area of the total body surface (ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 55.
The max METs in the Compendium of Physical Activities charts that I can find is 15.8, but that is only equivalent to a VO2 of roughly 55ml/kg. Endurance athletes competing at Olympic level commonly can achieve VO2s of 80+ml/kg. For the cyclists here I found a reference suggesting Greg LeMond's max VO2 was 92.5ml/kg, and Miguel Indurain's 88ml/kg. In my mid 30s I was tested as a "fit normal subject" in our hospital's cardio-pulmonary exercise lab and hit a VO2 max of 60ml/kg, so 55 is not that extraordinary.
and for anyone who wants more try starting here.
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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/LjmI3dP-pSA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/WDilQWhZxfk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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Sochi videos are starting to appear on the official Olympics video channel.
I cut and pasted embed code from another video to overcome the disabled embed button on YouTube for these summary videos of the mens & womens Parallel Slalom finals.
Hopefully full replays of the mens & womens slalom & giant slalom will appear soon.
<iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/bI-FhmBqy9c" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
<iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/1TTDRUmj0pg" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
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A year or two back I tried a cutdown paintball mask to achieve the same effect. Problems with mask fogging put paid to that.
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<iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/4FlbI3eoMPI" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="420"></iframe>
<iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/6r-35GF40Bo" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
This is as good as any of the instructional videos out there. These how to and result videos are from the same guy.
To install my external 3.5mm socket I cut & rejoined the wires rather than soldering to the circuit board. Used some bathroom sealant to seal the exit hole at the end to make it more weather proof.
The real trick is finding a place for external mike that is out of the direct head on airflow or any other seriously turbulent airflow. The bike vid above comments on YouTube say that he mounted his mike at the back of the bike under the rear seat.
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<iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/27327309" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" width="500"></iframe>
Glad to see you were OK.
Not often we see & hear raw action cam video. The roar from the standard mike at almost any speed is usually quite unpleasant.
I modified my Contour to have an external mike mono socket (cheap lavalier mike from budget electronics store) which I mount on the back of my helmet with a dead cat wind shield.
The video demonstrates the sound I got as a result. To my ears it's not far from what I actually hear as I ride, right down to the scuffed turn of the snowboarder I pass and the snow guns roaring away.
Some of the later Contours actually have an external mike socket fitted.
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NZ prices at major fields are heading towards NZ$90-100 per day for an adult pass. Current conversion rate is around NZ$100 to US$86.
And we don't have the litigation prone law that the US has, we have a no-fault compensation & treatment scheme for treatment for injury with a public hospital system that does not charge patients to any significant degree, so that's not the driver of the cost.
Our season is relatively short, and because of our temperate island climate lots of snowmaking is necessary, so these may be part of the reasons locally.
We also have legislated minimum wages, both for staff in training(NZ$11.40 per hour) and for staff 20 yrs or older(NZ$14.25 per hour), and a business culture where tipping is not the norm.
Lots of things potentially drive a lift ticket price.
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Scott,
Making plans for SES 2015. There is a work related conference at Snowmass at pretty much the same time each year as SES which got me there in 2012 & 2013.
Hoping to earn some more NASTAR gold and maybe a first platinum.
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Ride fast take chances!
Your recovery from injury and return to racing is giving me hope as I rehab from, fortunately, more minor injuries that have had me off the slopes since Feb 2013. One of them happened while riding fast & taking chances in the NASTAR course at Highlands. Hope someday to pick your brain over a beer at a future SES!
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Not quite the king. Mark Hogan (50-54 class) was the fastest snowboarder at the NASTAR championships, beating Scott on raw time in both the snowboard race course and the Race of Champions. Mark is an Aspen local I had the pleasure of meeting, and having my butt whipped by in the Snowmass NASTAR course, in Feb 2013.
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Agreed, pressure causes the phase change. Same scenario as an ice skate.
The difference in pressure between the edge of a single ice skate blade and the base of a snowboard, each bearing the weight of the rider, has to be several orders of magnitude different.
Science of all sorts advances by currently accepted knowledge being challenged.
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To me it seems like the universally most difficult part of a turn is at the bottom/end of the turn. This is when all the forces combine to try and pull you out of the turn, leading to fun problems such as chatter or skidding on the heelside. Now, if I have understood everything correctly, at the end of the turn you should have moved your weight aft on the board, having more weight on your rear foot to really dig that edge in.
Are you really looking for an answer as to why you end up with problems keeping your edge engaged throughout the whole turn?
If that is the question, then I suspect the answer lies elsewhere than changing your natural stance. Lots of points of view to be found on solving this across many Bomberonline threads.
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The video is proof of the concept that you can heat a board's base. You can potentially reduce the variability in wax requirements with different temperature snow. I would have liked to see a formal trial of matching prepared boards with power on vs. off to see the actual performance gain too. But the concept is possible.
That said, I think that the research to make it work to the optimum would be beyond all but the larger companies. The effect on the cost of a board would be likely to be considerable, and the effect of heating/cooling cycles on durability could be a significant issue.
On the other hand, maybe Fin could develop Powertec heels that only deliver power to the board when you click in, within a battery back pack you wear under your jacket!
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<iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/-nOMcl_rbgk" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
Wax techs might well have bad dreams tonight. Heating the base of the board to ensure a water layer underneath appears to be within the FIS rules (p81). They don't seem to have ever conceived that someone might try this! Have to think it will be banned as soon as the FIS sees someone trying it.
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Pictures, sketches? can't figure out what you guys are talking about.
Ron
Monoski - binding centres on a single line perpendicular to the length of the ski.
Alpine snowboard/Skwal - binding centres on a single line along the length of the ski.
"Plankenstein" concept - binding centres on the opposite corners of a rectangle approx. 50cm long and 6-8+cm plus wide (how wide depends on your board/plate/bindings).
PS: I can't figure out what to call this hybrid/chimera/cross of snowboarding and monoskiing.
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Softbootsailer,
Funny you should ask that.
Sitting in my garage, waiting this season's snow, is a snowboard with an isolation plate on it. The plate has extra binding inserts significantly offset from the centre line. The bindings are set up with the feet front and back, but also side by side rather than one behind the other, and with the binding angles at ®87.5 and (L)92.5 degrees (I ride regular normally). I plan to ride it with and without ski poles. I anticipate it will carve beautifully, be able to be poled easily along cat tracks, and will be an awful lot easier to ride on T-bar and platter lifts than a standard stance alpine snowboard. Come July-August this year I'll find out.
PS: The forum seems to be getting posts out of order. Starting to wonder if it's due to a problem the software is having with international time zones and computer clocks.
How to setup an isolation plate
in Carving Central
Posted
Pat, can you explain why you say "you don't get the full suspension effect"?
To my thinking the board still is able to flex completely independently of the rider by moving at both the front and rear axle mechanisms, whether the fixed axle is at the front or rear. Impacts on the part of the snowboard ahead of the front axle will still be transmitted along the whole length of the board.