z_in_nyc
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Posts posted by z_in_nyc
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Ah cool. Probably just Chinese manufacturers using images from Korua. Anywho, it’s a good powder board aside from not having wrap around edges.
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I have a Stealth. It’s a nice all mountain powder board, but it’s not a stiff carving board. I ride it w hard boots but you can’t push it too hard or it’ll chatter or buckle. The lack of a wrap around edge is indeed a problem, and if you beat up the tail it looks like it will eventually delam. These are probably made in China, because you can find very similar looking boards on Alibaba.com (see photo). So yes, you’re paying a bit for good marketing. But that’s true for many other brands too. If you like the shape / specs it could be the right board for you.
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Thanks guys. @philw I ride low angles. So should be ok. And they do sell cleats to fit a solid board.
I reckon the splitboarders take it easier on their gear so I was curious if anyone here has beat these up on a solid board. I agree those bails look fragile! -
Is anyone out there riding Phantom bindings on a solid board?
They look very well built and it’s so easy to swap them between boards, but those two contact points seem a bit flimsy for all around use. I broke a couple of bails on burton plate bindings back in the day and it was no fun. Anyone had good experiences on a solid board at a resort?
I’ll be doing free riding on an all mountain board and these would replace F2 Carve RSs (the all plastic F2s).
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Already ordered and got them, thanks. I’d still buy another pair of Carve RS’s if anyone has one at a decent price.
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Ideally looking for an F2 Carve RS, but I really only need the heel and toe pieces to replace on an intec setup.
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Thanks folks.
@pokkis That sounds beyond my DIY skills. I’d also want something that’s been tested for a step-in mechanism, just to be safe. Maybe there’s a way to repurpose the intec internals...? Or is there an example of a reliable DIY step in solution?
@b0ardski do you mean that there wouldn’t be a thick enough plastic heel left for a secure hold onto the intec heel after I cut away material? I could leave a little more plastic there and just have a higher heel. I’ll have a look when i get the boots.
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I just ordered some Atomic Backlands to try as a lightweight alternative to my UPZ ATBs for free riding (no splitboarding). I’d love to chop off the rear foot heel and replace w an intec heel because I really value the step in convenience. Has anyone done anything like that?! Put an intec heel on an AT boot? I realize it’s an extreme mod, but if the boot frame can handle it, then I should be good. Would appreciate any advice before I start sawing...
my most commonly used setup is a Korua stealth w f2 carve rs bindings.
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Thanks, guess I'll stick w the LeMans if they are the softest.
I think i molded it just once, but I do recall packing the toes with extra socks because the toes felt cramped. I used to ride burton fire's and they were tight in the toes as well. I guess I will try to get the plastic blown out a bit next time i'm at a resort.
thanks for the help
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Thanks guys, that's very helpful.
I think I do have somewhat wide feet, but I definitely buy regular shoes and they fit fine. Also, don't I have a thermo liner already (I have the Deeluxe Le Mans which may be the precursors to the 225T)? The liner was heat molded a couple of years back when I got them. Should I get these blown out to widen them? And that would help the toes? Also, is there a way to thin out the current liner? Like remolding or I guess it'll just pack in over time.
thx
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Oh and also, does anyone know if the 225T's would be flexier than my Le Mans or about the same? thx
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I ride m27 Deeluxe Le Mans (325s) and they have always pinched my toes -- meaning that my toes feel like the stick into the boot -- even with my knees bent and even in the liner itself outside the boot. I measured my feet and they are definitely 27cm long. I also did the "two finger test" (sounds dirty) and i can easily fit two fingers behind my heel w/no liner in there.
Should I just man up and suck up the pain or will getting 28cm boots solve my problems? I guess I am asking if going a tad big on the boots is a problem. I ride a flexy all mountain board and dont need racing-like stiffness, but i am old enough to remember the pain of heel rise in the 90's and do not want to go back to that. I'm looking at getting that 225t's and wanted to know if to get a 28 or 27.
Thanks for the help!
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late 90's era boots need to find a good home.
see http://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/spo/561544955.html
Snowboarding Hard Boots -- Burton three pairs 27cm, 27cm, and 27.5cm - $25 (TriBeCa)
<hr> Reply to: sale-561544955@craigslist.org
Date: 2008-02-03, 12:31PM EST
-- Burton Wind (white and blue) 27cm. These were the top of the line.
-- Burton Boiler (gold color) 27cm 3 buckle. These were widened a bit by a boot fitter in lake tahoe.
-- Burton Reactor (dark blue) 27.5cm. They look beat up in the pics, but were actually ridden less than 10 times.
I wear about a 9.5 or 10 size shoe and these all fit. The Reactor is a bit roomy.
$25 each or best offer. Weekday evenings or today (sunday) before 4pm
For pickup in tribeca only<table summary="craigslist hosted images"> <tbody><tr><td align="center">
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Phantoms on a solid board
in All Mountain Hardbooting
Posted · Edited by z_in_nyc
Quick update here. I’ve been riding the phantoms on solid boards at resorts for the past couple of seasons and it’s been great. I highly recommend trying it. I’m using atomic badlands w link levers. I haven’t broken or bent anything, but also haven’t had any monumental crashes. The setup is definitely the best hard setup I’ve ever had because of the flex, low weight, and low profile (boots close to the board). So no more F2 Carve RS for me. The weight alone is a game changer vs some of my old setups like upz + bombers — although I do miss that intec step-in...