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Hotbeans

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  2. Hardboot camps?

    in Racing

    Posted

    friggin' PA currently. But, flights out of Pitt. aren't too bad and rates have been dropping. Pitt to denver now at ~200 rt.

    looks like may & june. That'd be ok..especially if I can get a few days of fly-fishing/backcountry in..

  9. Base-high board observations

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Hmm. I'll take her back out with an adjusted stance although I don't think that the board is particularly stiff..maybe even a bit softish. I'm looking forward to having this help, especially as it looks like it'll be, once again, a sheet of ice!

    You guys think a 0/2 degree edge angle is ok then? I won't put ANY angle on the bottom, as with the base the way it is, it probably already has about 5deg..

  10. Suggestions for binding angles-Virus Phantom

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I've heard from many that virus boards can be super stiff and require full on aggressive riding to get them to perform (HOPEFULLY I'LL KNOW SHORTLY..ahem). IF you feel this is the case w/ your board, relaxed angles will provide more leverage during turn initiation vs. high angles. By coming down on your angles you could recruit more of your body mass to initiate the turn, thus overcoming the board's stiffness.

    Maybe drop down and then slowly work back up?

    Thor? Come in, Thor..

  11. Base-high board observations

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Sounds exactly like it is when riding a stiff borad at low speeds... And of course, if you use counterrotation when initiatin a turn. A stiff board with longer radius will need more speed, if you do not have a really good technic and have a lot of weight... If you are extremely good and sensitive rider and compere excatly the same boards then you will feel the difference on a convex bottom of 2mm and one with flat bottom. But if its not over 3 mm convex then I hardly think it is the only cause of your "problem" with the board, (but perhaps some of it). Then its also probably a technic or setup thing. :cool:

    I'm not denying that it could be a technique issue. I tried higher speed carving with the board and "feathering" into a carve was impossible. It was either skidding sideways (remember, this was on *hard* snow/ice conditions, and by skidding, I mean like trying to ride a dinner plate.) at high speeds *with* the usual recommended angulation or, once a higher degree of angulation was achieved, an instant hook-up. At any rate, I'd like a little more control of the edge.

    If you suggest a different technique to practice or angle set-up, I'd be happy to give it another go. I'm going early next week.

  12. [technique] Slarving

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Huh. I love doing this coming across the fall line faasst as I begin my transition into the next line. I've found it comes naturally when my balance is centered well-- a tad to the front for course corrections, drop to the rear for edge hold/acceleration. My issue occasionally is that I'll get caught "in the back seat" and rocket off towards the tree line.:eek:

  14. Base-high board observations

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    gs 172. I can see where, properly tuned, this board could have a lot to offer. The day I spent riding it, I went 4 runs, then switched to my coiler, then back again to the oxygen. I feel this provided a fair comparison in regards to edge hold, angulation required to "bite", and, I was hoping for carve characteristics. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a fair assesment on the last part because of the pronounced skidding and the *high* degree of angulation I needed to get it to hook up. Once it hooked up into a carve, it held a line really well. The issue I was having was that the angulation required to hook up wasn't in phase with the speed I was carrying (excessively high degree of angulation for lower speeds), and, hook-up was quite sudden and unpredictable.

  17. What to do about terrain parks?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Personally, I'd adapt. We've got big rollers and domes now due to intense snowmaking. It's fun to carve over the head of the dome and back down the other side.

    Or, you could get on with the guys on the thread "killing jumping" and blame the resort for putting them in your way, potentially causing a hazard...

  18. killing jumping

    in The Lodge

    Posted

    Pretty much all my days are in technicolor..

    Ohh, and lens selection helps a bit as well. If that doesn't extend my range of detailed vision, I slow down until I know what I'm getting into.

    If I'm still not seeing detail well enough, then I just keep carving away, thinking "I hope there aren't any bumps coming up! If there are, and I eat it hard and break something, at least I can potentially BLAME SOMEONE ELSE!"

  20. killing jumping

    in The Lodge

    Posted

    "The only thing that would scare me in doing so is that the couple of us carvers who do ride in control and pick our spots, would get yanked first because alpine riding tends to turn heads more readily that anything else on the mountain."

    Doesn't the "ride in control" rule already take care of the argument, or do we need lawyers and "risk engineer's"..insurance companies, to spell it all out for us?

    So someone hits the jump that some kids built and hurts themselves. Blame the kids? the resort? Hell, blame Mother Nature! The snow was able to be compacted, moved, reshaped into a 'dangerous' design.

    What about the person who hit the jump unexpectedly? If said person WAS in control, wouldn't they be able to avoid the obstacle? If the answer to this is yes, then fault the injured. If the answer is NO, then better take out the trees lining the runs, the lift poles, uneven terrain, bare spots, heck..eventually we'll be going down one at a time.

    CONTROL isn't ambiguous. You hit it, you own it.

    This BS I will fight forever. Pushing the blame on anyone/anything other than the simple fact that someone was going too fast to avoid object.

    I do agree that makeshift jumps should be removed, but not for the liability reasons. A ski area is to be enjoyed by many different age groups, skill levels, and techniques. Having these obstacles proliferate unchecked would reduce enjoyment for many others.

    What if a youngster's tips got buried in one of our ruts and got a broken leg? In your opinion, that'd be on us, the resort, and whoever else had a hand in letting that rut stay on the slope.

    That is BS!

  21. Heel side washout...why?

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    I thought the vid looked fine. MY opinion is that you're not over the edge at all times, ie: maintiaining angulation throughout the carve. I've been recently working on the "pinching the pencil" technique and found that an earlier and more consistent edge results. That "riding on rails" feeling.

  22. Oxygen Dangerous

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    Yea I agree it is a good board but not very forgiving. But when you get it right it will deliver very powerful turns. Also chek for a concave underside wich will make your life especially difficult( I had to do a massive basegrind to get rid of it)

    I'm getting experienced in the same manner with a board I already own!

    See the "convex base" thread.

    I'm assuming the base grind worked well?

  24. newbie help: leading leg tires on heelside

    in Carving Central

    Posted

    "shoulder width stance" sounds vague. I'd make sure you're not too wide as IMO could force you to drive your cg towards the front of the board too much. I've found that narrowing my stance (30" inseam, 17.5" stance) has lead to much easier turn initiation, especially on heelsides. "Shoulder wide" for me was 21 and initiating a heelside was a herculean effort.

    Angles you're running come into play if you're adding front cant.

    Setback?

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