Ear dragger
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Posts posted by Ear dragger
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first off I've gotta say it is amazing to see 2 board builders posting. I loved that virus. It was a fantastic ride, and I've contacted frank and it looks like I'm gonna get another tantalus but an evolution series. He says it has some more beef to it and of course all of their cutting edge technology. I find the warranty he offers to be very attractive!! We talked about my board.He thinks that the board got a crack prior to me owning it, and after that it was just a matter of time.
Bruce builds a fantastic board as well. My 178 FC is awesome to ride. It has been alot of fun for me, I just want something a little different which the virus offered to me. I would get another board from bruce but the waiting list is very long, and eces is not this month!
Ursle, My back boot was the one that broke, the board broke under the front binding and I was on my other board during that impact. Bruce, I would send you the board if you want it. And Jack I'm sorry you see this thread as a way to bash or call out. That is not my intention, I just wanted people to see what happened and wanted feedback.
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If cateks were the problem, I would have busted my coiler a long time ago!! Yes the lexan plate is to disperse the "point loading" but I highly doubt the board would have stayed together with those plates. I think it is just a imperfection that was in the board from when it was built. I will talk to virus, and other virus owners, because I plan on riding another one with os2's. Again The coiler I have would have done the same thing if the bindings were the case, cause I have been beating on that board for a while. of course I'm open to all opinions on the matter (why i posted the break).
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Yeah I went to the virus website, They don't use metal in that board. Ace I'll give you a shout about the virus
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scratch that, I have no idea. I don't think the bindings did that
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it's not a metal board
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I destroyed the Team Tantalus 175!! It happened during normal carving. No crashes, no improper setup, bindings were tight, No user mistakes. I do ride pretty hard but it should not matter!! It was a sweet carving board:(. I'm gonna talk to mr. Virus tommorow and see what to do. I doubt it will be replaced. Probably gonna buy a new one but a custom that can handle what I dish out to it! Pretty surprising that it delaminated. You can see inside and the core is split! the pics probably won't show it but, it's definately cracked. Guess the board is going to carving heaven:ices_ange
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I was plagued by shin bang my self for a long time.It would get to the point that half a day or riding was almost unbearable. You should get custom liners. try to find the tallest liners possible. I've got dallbello "silver" liners and they stick up out of the boot probably 4 inches or so. If you can't afford them, another thing i found out is riding with you're boots not clamped down hard will give the nasty shin bang as well. you really need to crank yourself into that boot. My shins used to blow up like golf balls all the time. But now with liners and crankin down pretty hard on the boots (don't cut off circulation) I'm a happy camper:)
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we'll see what happens. I put loctite on every bolt and screw.Having all the parts removable is great but there should be a lock washer underneath every thing to really hold stuff together
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stratton is a good place:biggthump
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sounds like you need heel lift in the binding. you could close up you're stance one hole, but lift is better, keep the width if you can. if not close up, you'd be surprised the difference one hole can make. I tried one of my boards with one hole wider on stance and experienced fatigue right away on the first run. closed it up and instant comfort!
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thanks all. I will loctite the tongues and i did tighten the springs up.looking forward to trying them out this weekend:rolleyes:
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I have ridden on the older upz's (the RSV's) for about 2 seasons. I just received my new RC10's and they are awesome! some nice new things on there, but one problem for me. The tongues are softer than what comes with the older boot
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The stuff is called plasti dip. and you can find it in home depot or similar stores.
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thanks for reply, but too much sidecut for my taste
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what is the side cut, and what is rider weight? thanks
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Since you're in the west, and I assume you're trails are pretty wide. you can get away with a 13m sidecut. If you go bigger, the board is gonna take a long time to finish a turn, and because you''re a beginner it will probably pick up alot of speed! Try not to get a GS board. They have pretty big sidecuts. if you watch there seems to be a good number of coilers getting sold here on the classifieds. Just beware that these boards are built specific. so the specs on the board are important. A 6.7 rating or higher should be good for you're weight. I think i saw a race carve on there the other day.
You can go for other boards of course but a swoard should not be one of them (in my opinion). Don't go for a hybrid (4wd or whatever). You wanna carve, then get on a real carving board. Spend 300-400 bucks on a deck just not too much side cut. Go for 175-180 range as far as length. You can probably pick up an old set of trench diggers or cateks. but you could also ride a softer binding to start, like snow pros or burton plates. I will say it is a great thing to have toe/heel lift. It makes riding more comfy, and less fatigue. You'll find out pretty quick as to whether you like a soft interface or a hard one. I prefer a very hard interface. I want the board to move. have fun:biggthump
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It's too bad bruce does'nt post up his new board designs on his web site. I know he keeps it very simple but still. I have yet to see a new board in person, and i am looking forward to trying out some of them at eces. :)
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Here's the million dollar question: If you don't over tighten a standard binding, are the boots prone to splitting because of the interface. Are stepins stronger than standard?
I find it hard to believe after this many years of non stepin bindings, that they are not close or equal in strength. One thing is for sure, I am not buying stepins after just throwing down for new boots. So i will set up as best as possible. if they break, you can bet your @@@ I will be looking to upz to replace them
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I gotta say, everytime dave espi or bobdea get involved into a thread, I get a really good laugh:). I almost look to see what you guys are arguing about!:rolleyes::D
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I ordered rc10s. the fix was to get me through the weekend. and it did. the bottom row is self tappers. predrilled of course. surprisingly that part of the boot is solid plastic.
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how much are you asking? what is the stance width? How long and what is waist width?
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put that board to bed and get something newer
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You probably should set the front binding angle a little steeper than the back, try somthing like 48 or so in the front with you're 45 in the back. stance: If you can set up 19 inches or more 19 3/4. you may not be able to set up too wide if you cant put toe/heel lift into the bindings. No canting at all is a good way to be (I think).
An alpine board feels like it will run away out from under you when learning, If you don't get them into a turn, they speed up in a hurry! I don't know how you ride but i can say body positioning is pretty important on alpine. It's morel like a skiiers shoulder position than a boarder. square with the board. Then to initiate, push the hip out and twist the shoulders into the turn (along with the head). Everything is done in a graceful manner. harsh movements will make the board do things you don't want (when learning). I'm no instructor and i have not seen you ride but remember you're body follows you're head so look where you want to go, up into the turn:biggthump have fun, you'll get you're groove, and before you know it, you will have a coiler (or something) and laying trenches!!
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the plate is covering the large crack. I suppose the bail could have been too tight. but it could also have been due to use:confused:.
broke a Virus!!
in Carving Central
Posted
Bruce, I set the board up in such a way that I could flex the crap out of the board. With a flashlight, I was able to see the inserts. They were not pulled thru. The core splintered some but only a small area. It's pretty interesting, I've never seen the inside of a board before. It kind of looks like many sheets of plywood stood on edge and glued all together (i guess)