Terryw

I have Directv/Tivo HD with the Hr10-250. On my Poineer 720HD I have had the same complaint since day one five years ago. Analog to digital difference is more like 30%. The commercial problem seems more pronounced on the HD channels. Maybe becaus of the digital audio signal? I know that some tvs have a automatic volume control to limit the boominng comercials, but if you run the signal direct to a home theater system you can't take advangage of that feature. Oh well, just bite the bullet and get your Tivo and never watch live tv again! For what it is worth, as I recall, the networks intentionally crank up the volume on commercials so that you can still hear them when you run to the bathroom or kitchen durring the breaks.

The avatar was a very subtle giveaway. I did two semesters in law school. Liked it a lot. It was just too expensive for me to continue. I still think about going back and completing the jd. Someday.

Based on the avatar:rolleyes:, and the fact that most people are interested in the things that they themselves are into, I think skipuppy might just be a lawer.

Went out last night and tried out the wave carveboard. That is the one with the big rubber tires. Had to have it! Brought it home and surprise surprise, my family seems to be interested in riding it too. My son wouldn't give it back for about 45 minutes. Way fun board. Its been a long time since I have either surfed of skateboarded, but so far this feels more like surfing to me than like sonwboarding. Maybe once I get real comfortable on it and start pushing it more, it will feel more like boarding. Still , it is a whole lot of fun either way. It is also the first skateboard I ever bought that came with instructions!

I am sure Kurt put a lot of time and effort into basic research when he came up with the current configuration of the T-board. I would certainly try it as is before playing with the base configuration. The T-board looks like great fun, and I do have some decent hills around the corner from me. But I will probably go with a more traditonal carving long board for now just for its versatility. The hills are great but I think I will still need to be able to work the flats too. However, next time around I think I will be picking up the T-board. I will just have to have different boards for different terrain, no problem! The tough part is getting my wife to buy into that logic. She allready frowns at the snowboards on the garage wall.:rolleyes:

Hey Eric, I went back to the web page for Tierney boards. I think the reason they don't flex much is because of the way the trucks mount the wheels directly under the board towards the center of the board for each wheel. In other words the nose wheel pivots towards the tail, and the tail wheel pivots towards the nose. If the board flexes too much, I believe that the board could actually contact the wheels with the bottom of the board. Of course if you are going to customize it any way, you could probably machine some kind of spacer between the truck and the board which would raise you a little higher above the ground and allow a higher angle of carve before hitting the edge of the board, hmmm....

What a cool idea. Gotta love that public transportatiion!

Well I am glad I asked prior to commiting mysself to the T-board. I read all the great testimonials, but I was worried about versatility. I was also curious about longevity. I took a look at that carveboard from Jacks post, I really like that board. It just so happens that there is a board shop with the wave carveboard about twenty minutes away from me in Alta loma. They will let me demo the board prior to sale. It would be nice to actually try one of these boards I have been reading about. So far all of my research has been on the net not on my feet. I believe that I could have a great time on all of these boards, but I would feel a lot more comfortable buying something I have actually ridden on. I have a small quiver of snowboards, I guess it is time to begin my long board quiver! Thanks for all of the feed back guys.

Been doing some research for the past couple of weeks on carving boards. I have pretty well settled on on the T-board. I just wanted to hear from other owners here and see if they are still happy with thier T-boards. I should add that I am fortunate enough to live in an area with several good hills that are calling to me every day!

Those are some scary pictures. The last time I was on the hill, I rode a few runs in walk mode. It was just a little too lose for me, so I clicked back into a locked in mode. Then I went home and ordered BTS. After seeing your pictures, that kit which has been sitting on my table for the last week is going to be mounted tonight!! I was going to wait till next year just like you. Thanks for the timely warning. I didn't really understand the risk I was taking in walk mode. Now I do.

For great tuning info check this site: http://www.alpinecarving.com/tuning.html This is the tuning section for "The Carvers Almanac". Lots of pics and details. Also check: http://www.tognar.com/

Be caraful with your brand new Donek. You should check with Sean and see how the board left his shop. He has in the past sent them out totally flat with 0 degree on bevel and 0 degree on the edge. You can really appreicate this if you ever bought a baoard and later found it to be concave or convex to such an extent that it will never be totally flat:angryfire This is also so that you can choose your own personal preference. You might find this to be difficult to ride. I believe that he was using a stone grinder this year and some of his boards went out with 1 degree on bevel and 1 degree on the edge. But you should check to be sure. Sorry if this is old info to you, but if it is not, it might save you frustating day:biggthump

From all I have read on the various boards there seems to be a signifigant preference towards the BTS. I am just curious, does anybody prefer the locked in 5 position over the BTS?

I recently bought all of Rays tools. I have yet to try the base flatner. For what it is worth here are his instructions: Instructions for Snowboard Base Flattening My tools WILL give you the accuracy you desire. My kits can are designed for maintenance tuning except for deburring for which you will need a stone (you probably already use one). I say maintenance because my tools are designed to only remove a minimal amount of material with each tune. I designed them that way to eliminate the risks of damage from over zealous tuning. If your board is good shape, my tools will bring them up to spec very quickly and accurately. If a board has been neglected, using my tools will require extra time and I do mean extra. Particularly base flattening. I often tell board tuners starting to use my tools to get the base stoneground with the goal of removing the least amount of material necessary, then do the beveling yourself assuming there was a bevel in place to start with. As far as a brand new board is concerned, they should come from the factory with 1 degree on the base and 2 degrees on the sides. If they have 90 on them, better let the shop rough in the angles first. I say this only to save time for you. Let me explain- a grind tech should only remove .0002 to .0003 inches per pass of the wheel. A one degree bevel using this material removal rate will require 5 to 7 passes and you are done. For the two degrees on the side you need to make twice as many passes of the wheel. My bevelers require 50 strokes to remove .0003 inches. Remember we are talking about creating the angle here. For maintenance tuning I have found that the edges sharpen up with about 10 strokes as maintenance sharpening is done on the side edges only and the angle is already present. We don't touch the base bevel except to remove burrs unless you redo the base flattening. Regardless, it is relatively effortless work because the line contact of the abrasive generates very high cutting pressure. In tuning a board I need to make you aware of a couple of technique points in base flattening unique to boards because the tuning tube does not extend across the base from edge to edge. For a board, RAY'S WAY base flattening begins in the center portion of the board where only P-tex will be removed. Use my standard flattening instructions and continue to remove material until you are satisfied but remember to count the number of strokes because P-tex, being less dense than steel, will be removed 4 times faster (.0008 to .0010 inches per 50 strokes). Next you should wrap a piece of masking tape on top of the abrasive at one end of the tube . This end will ride on the P-tex surface you have just tuned near the center of the board and will prevent any material removal there. The other end will ride on the steel where you will use 4 times the number of strokes you used on the P-tex because the steel is denser. This will leave you with a pefectly flat base, except for the edges which have a bevel angle that you will then touch up assuming we are talking about a maintenance tune. This step is obviously repeated on the opposite edge. Sounds a little wordy but it is really quite easy and straight forward once you get into it and it doesn't take too long. With very little experience you will know exactly what you need to do. I usually touch up my skis every weekend and it takes about a half hour complete with waxing and brushing to open the structure.

Any more impressions about the Blade? I talked to Sean today, and I think this may be my next board. I would love to hear about the boards versatility.

Hey Kimo. You never did say in this thread what you did think of the Blade. I know it wasn't in hard pack, but one of my queations about the board is its versatility. So I am curious how you kiked it in the conditions you rode it in. I have been watching those videos of of EC till my eyes burn. Just so cool. I talked to Sean today and I think I will be ordering a 180 Blade very soon. Looking for a little more feed back on this board:rolleyes:

Is this board still available?