shawndoggy
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Posts posted by shawndoggy
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Where did you set your Speed vs Motion bar and the the Motion sensitivty?
Thx for the tip!
K
More towards speed and more towards sensitivity. Seems like about 1/3 to 3/8 up from the left side of the scale on both sliders.
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hopefully it worked out for you John. I bailed by 11. It was a zoo! Northwest is the run to carve on, but it gets very busy by mid morning on a weekend which means lots and lots of stops to make sure you don't get straightlined from behind.
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If you ride with tunes (and I'm not trying to make this one of THOSE threads), I strongly recommend checking out Adaptunes. Its a $.99 ap that uses the gps and acellerometer in the phone to turn the volume up and down based on speed and movement of the phone. Using the "skiing" setting, this ap is incredible. I can now have normal conversations with people on the chair while rocking out down the hill, all hands free. As soon as you stop the volume instantly drops. I've also got mine set up to be more reactive to actual movement of the phone (not just speed that the phone is travelling), so even though the chair ride is fast, the phone is relatively still so the tunes are really faint in the background. Pretty dern cool.
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/adaptunes-speed-based-volume/id319479071?mt=8
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What would be a very interesting project would be to record different board constructions on different types of snow. It might be possible to figure out how well a board will hold an edge on ice, or hero, just from the sound it makes.
Oh that that were the sound that's being recorded. In reality its the sound of the gopro camera bouncing around in its plastic waterproof case.
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gah... I got a trailer full of honey-dos and its the holidays and... blah blah blah. If I can get up tomorrow it would prolly be for a few hours in the morning... say 9-11 a.m.?
I'll look out for a carvin' crew.
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So I haven't posted a legit carving video on youtube in almost two years (owing to me not spending much time at a carving-friendly resort last year). Anyway, back in spring of 2009 I posted a couple of videos with the gopro facing forward. They were terrible because the camera gets packed with snow.
However, in the past several months they've taken off and both have more hits than any of my other vids. Very weird!
This is now my "top viewed" video. Its excruciating! I can't even stand to watch it because of the audio.
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On steeper terrain, narrower terrain, or more difficult snow conditions the longer board becomes much harder for the beginner to carve. The beginner / intermediate rider is not as good at cramming it into a smaller turn radius and the board picks up a lot more speed during each turn. The rider is then either going to fast for the conditions or has already run out of real estate and must skid the board to regain control (or has run off the groom - very dangerous).
Hey Buell, you and I have ridden together on some of that steep and narrow terrain, so I'll throw in this two cents... I agree that a shorter board is more confidence inspiring for the cautious carver because it allows someone to use the "natural" turning radius of the board to make a turn in tight conditions. However, after becoming proficient, I strongly prefer something with a bit more edge length in those same conditions. It probably is an element of "masking bad technique" or something like that, but I feel like the bigger board has a bigger "platform" and isn't as sensitive to minor errors in body position. What it does take is some mental commitment to "muscle" the longer board into turning short RIGHT NOW.
I'm not talking about the difference between 140cm and 210, rather more like 160 and 180. For me (160ish lbs) I really like the generally longer sidecut and greater stability that a board in the 180 range provides over the twitchier short boards.
I haven't ridden anything super new-school in a short board though, so maybe my mind could be changed. Coming to Reno this winter/spring? :)
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Man, where is scrapster... this board has his name written all over it.
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Avalanche / Sanders? Pics like these in the back of Thrasher and Transworld Skateboarding blew my mind in the 80s.
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If any of you have ever ridden with James Ong you know that a light guy can throw down on tight steep groomers on a long board. If you have to keep your speed in check my argument would be that you aren't riding a steep enough run. On steeps carving boards are slow because we finish our turns. Getting run over from behind is the more significant concern.
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This is a KILLER freecarve board that doesn't get enough love around here. Preferred to my dearly departed Coiler AM-T.
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That may be so, but it was the first suggestion you gave to michelle, with almost no information to go on as far as what the actual problem was (your post was third, and the OP was not informative enough to indicate the nature of the problem). After hearing a little more from her it seems almost certain that her problem is data corruption that occurred while syncing: something that would not be resolved by whacking her ipod and is an easy software fix: so if she had whacked it she very likely could have damaged it, with no possibility of resolving the problem.
And with that you will find no disagreement.
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It is also a very good way to permanently damage a hard drive. Like I said: you stand more of a chance doing permanent damage to the HD by doing this than anything else. That doesn't mean it won't occasionally fix something. If you've tried everything else then yeah, go ahead and give it a whack and see what happens - but it should absolutely not be the first thing you try.
The article you linked to also noted (in the comments) that you can open the ipod up and reseat the hd wiring, which seems to have come loose for some users. That is a way of dealing the problem that will fix the problem (if indeed this is the problem) without risking hardware damage to the drive. There are plenty of people for whom this fix has not worked, and many of them have probably damaged their drives by trying it. Also note: if the drive connectors are loose, whacking the iPod may jostle them back into place for some people, but the rest of the time it will probably loosen them further (while possibly damaging the hard drive).
The little sad icon can happen for many different reasons: Your connectors may be loose, in which case whacking it may help, though that is just as likely to destroy your drive. You may just have corrupted drive data (which can easily be fixed with software, and no amount of whacking will help). if you whack a hard drive with corrupted data and end up doing damage to the drive heads or platters inside the drive you end up with physical drive failure and your previously repairable problem is no longer repairable.
Just because something works some of the time doesn't mean it's a good solution. Better to fix things the way that works all of the time, and doesn't carry the risk of inflicting additional harm.
LOL, dude, whacking it was not what I did first, nor does the linked article suggest it. If you read what I said, you would know that my ipod was "otherwise bricked." Bricked means no workie, no matter what. None of the other solutions worked. It was literally going to be thrown in the garbage. Then I saw the whack it idea, and guess what, it worked.
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Don't do this if you have an ipod that uses a hard disk drive inside: shocking the drive physically like that can cause hardware drive failure that will turn your ipod into a brick. If you absolutely cannot get the ipod running and have tried everything in your power you could do this as a last resort, but whacking it is more likely to damage the drive in your ipod than anything else.
You have an iPod with a hard disk inside of it if it is one of the larger models with a click or touch wheel on the front.
funny thing is that's EXACTLY what I had and this is a known fix for ipods that already seem to be bricked.
http://www.spillingcoffee.com/2006/07/13/how-to-fix-an-ipod-with-the-sad-ipod-icon/
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I had an old ipod video that wigged out and I tried every button pushing trick in the book to get it to work to no avail. Then right before I was gonna throw it out I read something about whacking it pretty hard with your hand. Sure enough it came right back to life after a little physical abuse.
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Admittedly Shawndoggy, I was less tactful than you. Next mounting job will be to a higher standard.
LOL, "tact"ful! :)
Really though if it doesn't work in the really cold temps that would be interesting to know. How cold was it?
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This model will soon be released due to overwhelming consumer demand. It features a 10 inch (25.5cm) long forward extension beyond the front binding inserts with a permanently attached Manfrotto ball head for maximum versatility in camera angles. The same qualities that give the rider a more stable ride translate into a better mounting point for the camera.
Sunsurfer ;)
I know that's supposed to be a joke, but IMHO it would still be undesireable because to get a good camera angle you want to get the camera as far to the front (or back) of the board as possible (gets more rider in the board). 10" from front binding would just get a whole lot a knee in the shot.
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I have used the surfboard mount (w/3M 2-way adheive) succesfully but even that failed at brutally cold temps. Got brittle and chipped off landing on groom off a roller. I reused the same disc after cleaning it up, purchasing new sheets of 3M 2-way and cutting to size. Failed again in the brutal cold when the plastic mount portion of the disc got brittle (- temps) and the weight of the camera itself was too much to bear mid-turn. Had to take a hike to find it that time. Always interesting to watch the footage of such incidents. Never used suction cups on the snowboard because I have no confidence in it.
Interesting, dave. Did you heat the 3M vhb before sticking it, and then let it cure for a while? I've had tons of success with that stuff, especially if I get it super-gooey with a blowdrier for a while first. Granted, I've not tried to use it in "brutally cold temps". My temp range is usually 20F+.
EDIT: my avatar is actually shot from one of the stick on helmet mounts (which I would not recommend trying at home) that I used the blow drier trick on.
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My experience was negative.... dry, it'll stick pretty good. but if there's any moisture on the board, the mount will start to "skate" on the surface of the board, eventually falling off. I could never get mine to stay on for longer than a couple minutes.
The semi-permanent surfboard mount is a way better choice imho.
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I will respectfully disagree with anyone saying you'll only lose 1-2 mpg. That could be true for around town driving, but on long freeway stretches, it will be more unless you religiously drive 55. I'm a 75-80 mph driver in the west, and I've had a roof box on five different vehicles. The more economical the vehicle to begin with, the bigger the impact on mileage. I lost 5+ mpg with a box on my 1997 accord wagon. Similar losses on top of my wrx (plus major PITA with spoiler clearance). Honda Pilot, Nissan Pathfinder and Honda Odyssey all lost 3+ at highway speeds (and those are all sub 20 mpg vehicles to begin with).
Which is not to say don't buy a box. Love it love it love it. But it's not without penalty at the pump.
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Please do not understand me wrong
I'm not pointing in any direction or saying that one brand better or worst than other
I'm just pointing out the inherent limitations of the bullet camera systems,
Anybody who want to buy such a system should know about the compromises demanded by a small, roughed & cheap camera.
But there is hope, things are evolving and I believe in the next couple of years we will see serious improvement on image quality.
And I hope some of the big names(samsung, sony, canon, panasonic etc) will jump in am turn out some quality product.
Bang for the buck, the gopro HD is pretty darn good for $250. If you are looking for the absolute BEST HD resolution, probably not. But shooting in the r3 mode (720p, 60fps) the results are quite good. I'd say 90% as good as my canon vixia hf100, for half the (current) price.
As for editing, I've started using imovie (mac) and it's pretty good for a moron like me. Apple actually converts every video into its own apple codec first, before you edit. So it can take quite a while to import videos, but once they're imported, they edit very well in real time. You can then export the videos into different formats.
For editing on a PC, I'd look at a rig that's billed as a "gaming" machine. Core i7 with a 1gb video card should be awesome.
A couple of samples of the gopro HD in action this summer:
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When's it gonna snow?
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With a big fat headstart on the dates I could probably twist some arms in the Reno crew to actually show up and ride with you guys too.
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In the interest of explaining what I'm doing here... my HSPs have a set of size 10 intuitions in them now, and the fit is heavenly. These are the "plain old" intuitions... not the power wraps. I believe that the current model equivalent would be the alpine liner, though the ones I'm running in the HSPs are black, like the universal liner. My liners are a few years old, though, so I'm assuming intuition changed the liner color along the way.
Anyhow, my snowboard boots are dialed with this liner and a set of footbeds. Never had a better fitting pair of boots. What I'm trying to do now is replicate that near perfect fit in a pair of Dalbello Avanti shells for skiing. This boot uses the same shell mold as the HSPs, so I just need to duplicate the liner situation and I should be good to go.
So please don't tell me it won't work (I've done it already, it does work for me).
iphone users...
in Carving Central
Posted
My experience too. And the nice thing with this ap is at the moment you stop so does the music (and it turns down as you slow down too).
For a buck it's $.$$ well spent.