shawndoggy
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Posts posted by shawndoggy
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if you want to sell the prior I might be interested in that
nah, I've found my magic carpet with that board. She's a keeper.
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How would this board compare to a Prior WCR metal board? The board my roommate rode was a 173 WCRM, it has a 12m SCR and a 21 waist, would this be a close match being softer than the Prior?
If you decide to break up the set, he is actively looking for TD2's.
Thanks
JIM
My other board is a 177 wcrm with the 21cm waist. I would say that this board rides "longer" than the prior. It's not a noodle by any means... it's a stiff board, but not silly stiff. I'd say it's probably stiffer than my prior, even though it's "only" built for 165 lbs. It's also a cm narrower, so it's going to require slightly steeper angles for a bigfoot.
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Lol maybe we can work a three way? I've got a 169 but would really like to downsize.
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Since it's howling windy and I'm stuck at home today, I snapped a few pics. Wax is fresh. The board's finish looks flat because the plastic is still on top. Man was it dusty. This board needs to go to a good home where someone will put it through its paces.
For those who asked about the bindings... bumpers are purple (not yellow like I thought) and both receivers are alu. Took pictures of the wear on the receivers. There's lots of life left in them.
and a couple of "shopped" pics:
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It was $800 or so new, and has only a handful of runs.
I've not been religiously following the classifieds and I don't have a feel for the market right now. What's it worth?
Gah. OK that's not an answer. Let's say $600 shipped in the lower 48 or $800 shipped with TD2 SI's with 3 degree cants and yellow bumpers.
And then you can all beat me up if that price is way off.
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carvedog, sent you an e-mail. Also I forgot to note that I'm 165lbs, so this board is probably softer than Bruce's stiffest offerings.
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Built for me by Bruce two years ago, ridden once or twice. Still has plastic over the top sheet. Oh the blasphemy, but I've fallen in love with softies all over again and this board is literally gathering dust in my garage. Could probably include TD2 step ins for an interested buyer.
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pm sent on the 4807....
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My favorite days involve soft snow not firm. On untracked days I prefer steeps, bumps and trees. I'm too mediocre on hbs for that to be fun. Air, slashy laybacks and stopping on a dime are all much safer for me on softies. Last year the weather gods put a lot of those days on the weekends for me so softies it was.
If conditions are more marginal/firm then it's back to hbs.
I also started hardbooting while my kids were doing ski team. Something new to keep me engaged on the same old mountain. Now that my kids are older and faster and freeskiing, softies lend themselves to riding with skiers much more so than hbs.
Shoot, I'd tele on the right days and have a set of at gear if funds allowed. There's more than one way down and all can be fun. Variety
Keeps it fresh.
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Mt. Rose is the best, but Kirkwood is closer.
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This shows the Energy and what happens when the Cameras show up...
wow. what happens when you get crushed by that thing? wow.
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This is a really fun board and of the skinny variety. I owned one a couple of years ago just as I was learning (could be this one as I sold one to Kendrick) and it really helped me progress. I ended up liking my now dearly departed coiler am more so this one went... And I kinda regret it. Fun board that demands aggressive riding.
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<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/9k2iE55CUu0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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shawndoggy, I was just re-visiting some old threads (the wheels are turning) and was curious, did you ever drill out the rivets?
I had good results sanding the 2nd and 3rd straps where they touched when fully flexed (my buckles did not actually touch, the straps did) to allow for clearance.
What is your feeling on the modified boots as compared to stock?
jp1
Yes, I did drill the rivets. Boots are perfect now though I wouldn't mind finding a button top screw to replace the hex bolt that's on there now. Just the right amount of flex for me but I tent to catch the bolts on one another when I'm walking to the chair.
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....on the nose of the board (Shawndoggy style) has been the small flat mount plate provided with the camera purchase. The trick to keeping it on has been to buy some 3M spongy two-sided tape much like what is already on the mount, but softer and gummier (red peel away film on the roll). Cut a piece to size and sandwich it between the clean and warm board laminate and the mount plate (with it's existing two-way tape still in place and sticky exposed). Then for good measure, and extra hold, a bead of GE clear silicone around the edge with 12 hours dry time.
To mildly stabilize, I've used a little plastic from a sandwich bag around the fastener that slides and clicks into place to mount the unit. Rattles around a little less.
The surf mount's plastic fractured on me in sub-zero temps.
No guarantees, but this has worked for me on icy crud and hard landings.
Thanks Dave. I was really really surprised to see the surf mount come un-stuck. It didn't crack or break or anything... just came off of the board entirely. Especially weird given that it's been stuck to the board for almost two years... plenty of time to "cure."
I know exactly what you are talking about regarding the small mount and vhb tape, and that's what I had the most success with a couple of years ago too. I guess if we get some firm snow in the next couple weeks I'll have to give it a go again.
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So I haven't been visiting much because I've been riding softies more this year (gasp!), but I came back because I too launched a surfboard mount yesterday. I've had luck with the tiny flat sticky mount in the past, so I thought the surf mount would be fine. And in fact I've had the surf mount stuck to the board for the better part of two years. I just haven't been filming much.
Anyhow, about 8 turns in the camera and surf mount ejected. Still my favorite vantage point for the gopro. Good thing I leashed it.
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-tnRpgMO0D4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Very curious whether there is a true solution or if I just got lucky doing it this way in the past. That boom idea would probably produce good video results but I'd sure hate to be impaled by that thing in a crash.
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That is RAD!
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for your intended use (long highway driving, intermittent snow capability), the jeep is too much "truck". The cherokee ride quality sucks. And for passengers, the rear seat room is pathetic. I gather that you enjoy driving a "drivers car." Of course for $4k, there aren't many of those, but even when they were brand new, Cherokees sucked to drive.
SRSLY, the 1st gen CRV and 1st gen rav4 were built to answer the Q you were asking. Car-based, so there's still a modicum of handling. Roomy enough. Not off road capable, but awd when needed. Good fuel economy, good highway ride. (suby legacy based wagons also fit this bill and are fun / pleasant enough to drive).
An old skool cherokee is a penalty box to drive on the highway for extended periods and your passengers will hate you. If you lived in the mountains and needed a commuter, a cherokee might be perfect. But for extended highway travel? UGH.
As for fwd/awd, how does it work on the east coast... do you ever have mandatory chain controls? Out here in the sierras 4wd with all weather tires never has to chain up, but fwd with studs would, even though the fwd car would do as well or better than the 4wd vehicle. So out here 4wd is very much a matter of convenience of getting through when roads are restricted.
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Forgot to mention the Legacy/Outback on that list too. I figured that the Forrester is the same thing but just a bit awkward looking and with more room, and figure that I can probably use the room. Otherwise, a legacy/Outback would be just fine as long as it's a wagon.
Diesel is a good idea, I should maybe consider a VW diesel wagon. I've had a VW in the past.
I've never had to replace a clutch - how much does that generally cost for the subaru if it becomes an issue?
I guess the Jeep is out. They drive kind of rough anyhow.
forester or crv should be on the short list, along with a legacy wagon. The legacy GT of that vintage is actually pretty sweet and came in a wagon / manual (or auto). The Forester is actually smaller than the legacy for useable space (smaller rear cargo area, but taller).
If it were me, I'd go with a 5 speed crv if you can find one. Its the biggest of all of the offerings (comfort on long drive) and still would get decent mileage.
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would like to see if Shawn has improved upon the original design. I could see tool dip on some of the interface areas . . .
LOL, no, no improvement on the original design, though I think doing it with wood might be a better idea for next time... the pvc wastes some vertical space in the box with the joints.
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I have had 2 sets of Giro's "tune-ups" and they are not bad but I am going to give this a try for deeper bass
http://www.amazon.com/Philips-Neckband-Headphones-SHS5200-28/dp/B003CJTR8M/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Pat, did you try these yet? My tuneups wigged out so I went ahead and pulled the drivers out and rewired/soldered them (also hardwired in a mic, since my helmet is plugged into my iphone). I also tried putting a cheapie set of old school headphone drivers in the tuneups' ear pads (the cheap kind you used to get with a walkman in the 80s), and they fit fine but sound was inferior to the tuneups. But now that I know it can be done I'm interested to hear about an affordable upgrade, especially in the bass department.
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Oh and on the issue of damaging the wiring... what I did was zip tie the cable out of the helmet to one of my helmet straps with a little strain relief built in.
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Thanks for this reminder - I'll be giving adaptunes a shot this weekend. It would be really nice to have something that just automatically stopped playing as soon as you stop moving.
Post your thoughts once you try it. For me it's one of those "holy crap this is so awesome" aps.
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the tuneups really do work fine and are plug and play. I like geeking out on custom stuff as much as the next guy, but for the kind of listening you are doing you don't need anything more.
if you are using an iphone, I'm the site's official adaptunes pimp. It's well worth the buck.
I also use an inline mic/volume controller (available on ebay for under $10). Volume control really isn't necessary any more with adaptunes, but before I was using the ap it let me turn the tunes up and down without digging the phone out of my pocket. Also very nice for taking calls.
Osin 3800 - 163 cm
in For Sale
Posted
OK, well snowsurfer, carry on. I'll try to get the 169 listed up this week and maybe I can find a buyer and then I can buy yours.