alexeyga Posted January 8, 2006 Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 Guys, I'm rather ignorant about Burton stuff, but I know that the cant plate I've got with the pair of bindings is no-go... I only need to rise the heel a bit without any canting... What are my options? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derf Posted January 8, 2006 Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 Do you have Race plates on which the heel block can be unscrewed or other Burton bindings (Performance, Carrier, rental) on which the heel is riveted? If it's the first, you can put shims under the heel block and use longer screws, if it's the other one, you haven't got much other choice than to use the burton cant, ride flat or get other bindings. Or make one if your a machinist... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexeyga Posted January 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 Derf, I think I have the Race-series bindings with screws.. Though I don't feel right about shims, since the boot won't be standing on flats anymore. If i still had access to a machine shop, machining shims with a specific angle woudn't be a problem, but I don't - got my DEC finally... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derf Posted January 8, 2006 Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 You could try some plastic shims and grind them at an angle with a belt or disc sander (which are common outside of a machine shop). I'm not sure about the type of plastic though, but try something hard and not brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexeyga Posted January 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 Derf, I have a CNC punch at my workplace... what do you think about making some composite wedges out of 3/16" alum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derf Posted January 9, 2006 Report Share Posted January 9, 2006 It should be OK. With 3/16" you should get around 1.5 degree of lift, so you may have to stack a couple of them. With 1", you get 7 degrees, 1/2" = 3.5 degrees, and so on. Use atan(height/8)=angle, assuming you have "regular" size feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfell Posted January 9, 2006 Report Share Posted January 9, 2006 Go to Wal-mart check out the plastic cutting boards. Find one that is the same thickness as you want you heel lifted. Cut to the shape of the heel pad. get new screws that are long enough and your done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil sunday Posted January 9, 2006 Report Share Posted January 9, 2006 Phil- excellent advice. the same as Anton gave me. I'm putting them on Snowpro's today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexeyga Posted January 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2006 Guys, adding shims solves the problem, but the boot isn't standing on flats anymore... no good imho. Although in old snowpros the heel lift was acheived by changing the thickness of rubber pads under the heel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfell Posted January 9, 2006 Report Share Posted January 9, 2006 It's fiine trust me, I know dozens of people who just put a peice of plastic under thier heel piece for lift. F2, and Phiokka come with shims to do this with. For a breif time Burton even made shims to do this for the toe of the front binding. Lynn Ott, Pogue, Kosglow, Rosey, and many many others have this same cutting board piece in their binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexeyga Posted January 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2006 F2 makes wedges, thus both toe and heel pieces always stay on the same plane... Perhaps it's not that important, but I don't like half-way approach... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derf Posted January 9, 2006 Report Share Posted January 9, 2006 LIke I said previously, take some plastic (a cutting board as someone suggested) and put and grind it at an angle with a sander, this way you will have an angle. Make two shims like that (one front and one rear) and you're all set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjvircks Posted January 10, 2006 Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 Some cutting boards are made out of materials that can become very brittle at the moderately cold temperatures we see. Others will be too soft and "creep" (yes, it is a real term in materials science) under the platform and your screws will seem to loosen by themselves. Not good. Look for the milky white, very tough cutting boards. They are almost always made from a blend of what is known as Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE). This is the stuff you want. Please be careful with 'home-brew' modifications. I'm a mechanical engineer and I've seen too many "makes sense to me" things go wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfell Posted January 10, 2006 Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 F2 makes wedges, thus both toe and heel pieces always stay on the same plane... Perhaps it's not that important, but I don't like half-way approach... It isn't a half-way approach. People have been doing it for years with no problems, if you want to make it more difficult and complicated go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexeyga Posted January 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 Thanks guys, I'm in Mechanical Engineering my-self, so cutting board doesn't sound good to begin with... I've been abusing my work-time today, punched out a bunch of nice spacers out of 1/4" alum... Same form as the heel block.. :D I've also tried to make a new base plate, just for the sake of it... but this thing is bloody hard to copy. Whoever drew it originally was really sick... I still want to make a few spare ones, before I quit my current job... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfell Posted January 10, 2006 Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 If you already knew the answer why ask the question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfinsmiley Posted January 10, 2006 Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 UHMWP.......that`s the stuff to use, flag the aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kipstar Posted January 10, 2006 Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 cutting board works fine; you can just grind it at a slight angle, so that the boot is flat again. However, take a look at the rubbish sole of most snowboard boots; it is soft rubber which compresses when you tighten the binding; so being flat against the sole means nothing. It only make a difference for a ski boot, which I understand the guy Anton still uses; but even so i can bet he has some play in the binding probably, so again, maybe he likes it that way? I think aluminium is overkill and heavy maybe, but what do I know as I am not an engineer :-) When in doubt, use a dremmel. When in more doubt, use a hammer. When in most doubt, use dremmel plus hammer, plus jaegermester. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tufty Posted January 10, 2006 Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 cutting board works fine; you can just grind it at a slight angle, so that the boot is flat again.However, take a look at the rubbish sole of most snowboard boots; it is soft rubber which compresses when you tighten the binding; so being flat against the sole means nothing. Exactly. That said, my bits of cutting board are angled, because I'm a perfectionist and a geek. They didn't need to be, but I enjoyed doing it. Dremels are for girls, though. You don't want a dremel, you want something like this plus plus plus and the job's a good 'un Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skategoat Posted January 10, 2006 Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 Regarding the Burton bindings with the rivets - has anyone tried to drill out the rivets and replace with bolts? Doable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil sunday Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 spend less time figuring out your ultra tech lifters, and more time riding cutting boards under your feet! ask anyone who actuallly rides them- cutting boards are perfect. but they will not instantly make you into a super-carver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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