AT and Randonee

[Guest atamme]

I searched the forum for AT and rondonee boot info and found too much unrelated stuff.

Has anyone tried to ride plates with AT/Randonee boots with any sucess? I am thinking of trying to consolidate my boot collection from 4 pairs down to one or two and the AT seems like it might have the capability to fill the gaps (ski, board, mountaineer, etc...). So any thoughts and experiences would be great.

A.

[Guest Zach Davis]

atamme,

I've been using Scarpa lasers with TD2s and Bomber Splitboard Bindings (Customized version... Thanks, Fin!) for the better part of this year. Works great for me....

With some bindings, you may have to take a finishing sander to the lug and sole of your boot, to make the toe-bail fit. I had to shave out a little channel to make my Lasers work... nothing that would affect the integrity of the boot.

FWIW - I'll be ditching the Lasers in favor of Garmont, Mega Rides... they are a much better fit for me, and they have the most forward lean of any AT boot on the market (except for the Garmont Adrenalines, which are too heavy for my use).

Zach

[slopetool]

I've been riding AT boots excusively since 92'. Not all brands are the best. The Raichles and Garmonts seem to have a natural forward lean design. They work great for me. I like to hike OB or into closed areas sometimes and it sure is better than the newer hard boots with no Vibram lug sole. Plus just walking around is better overall. Call me old fashioned. I started skiing with them too two years ago. Why change boots? Stiff boots are over-rated.

FYI - if you wear a 9 and a half boot, I have a pair of Raichle AT boots for sale. Brand new old stock. I will post a classified ad next week, once I get a picture to download. Too small for me and the store tags said 10 and a half. damn!

[mtnbumvbc]

I use randonee boots for carving and alpine touring. Plus, I've always prefered a softer boot for carving. I use the Garmont G-Ride (4-buckle with power strap) for aggressive carving and the Garmont GSM (3-buckle with power strap) for boarding in softer conditions and in the back-country.

If you can fit into a Garmont, the G-Ride is the way to go. It's stiff enough for aggressive carving (usually on my Sims Burner) or skiing in all sorts of conditions, yet has enough flex and a walk mode for comfortable alpine touring. The buckle extenders are great for the skin out to the car after your last run.

The Garmont GSMs are used primarily on powder days or when I'm hiking into the backcountry with my board (usually with my O-Sin 4807). The GSMs are soft enough that when I have it in walk mode, I can snowshoe in them.

[Guest Randy S.]

My first hard boots were Dynafit Tourlit AT boots. They worked great. I hiked Tuckerman Ravine a few times in them. Here's a pic of Kevin McMillen in his Lowas:

[Guest atamme]

OK, well it sounds promising then, now all i have to do is wait for my current boots to blow out (probably this season) and find a pair that fits well (mondo 28/28.5).

Thanks guys, esp. for the photographic evidence.

A.

[D.T.]

I have a pair of Garmont SKi-Mountaineering boots from ~six years ago. The issue I had was after a few turns the toe bail/clip would rotate and come off during heel side turns. Booting out during a turn is no fun. I set-up the binding such that it was fairly snug to close the clip onto the boot. I always assumed that the Vibram sole was compressing too much and allowing the clip to rotate. Has anoyone else had this problem?? If so, how did you remedy the problem? I would really like to use this as a backcountry boot since they are compatible with my crampons, snowshoes and potentially the TD1's.