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Toesides


Gecko

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I have always had good toesides...until now...new setup and I am having issues with intiating my toeside turns...I also had some problems with heel lift but I added a degree of cant so I think that will fix that issue. I think part of my problem was really soft snow and a fear of pearling but even on hardpack I was really having to shift forward to drive into a toeside... any help would be appreciated. On a positive note me new setup was awesome I have never had the control or speed that I had yesterday and due to it's length (RC175) powder wasn't the issue that it used to be (I still want a OSin 4807 though)

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but did you change your binding angles at all? I remember when I was messing around with my angles last season I went too steep and it felt like I couldn't initiate my toeside properly either. I backed 'em off alittle and it was like night & day. I've only been hardbooting for 3 seasons now, but I've had the same or similar problem,

Good luck,

Paul

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Originally posted by ar(angel

but did you change your binding angles at all? I remember when I was messing around with my angles last season I went too steep and it felt like I couldn't initiate my toeside properly either. I backed 'em off alittle and it was like night & day. I've only been hardbooting for 3 seasons now, but I've had the same or similar problem,

Good luck,

Paul

Last season I ran 53*/48* (the shallowest I could go and still not have drag) with 2* lift rear (max) 2* cant and 1* lift front, no cant but my issue last year was heelsides. This season those numbers are 57*/54* with 2* lift 1* cant front and 4* (now 5*) lilft , 2* cant in the rear again the angle are the shallowest I can use. I could make the front steeper to match last years differences I could also close my stance a bit but last year my board had a max width of 17.5", that was too tight and my knees hated me, I'm comfy at 20" I'm 6'1" and have a 33" inseam its what I use skateboarding. I'm thinking of going flat at the front and just using a bit of toelift 1*-2* and posiblly not using any cant in the rear either...

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yes, going too steep in the back especially will make your toe turns harder to initiate. i remember that clearly- i decided to try to "tuck-in" the rear leg and dialed 60 front 62 back and i could not turn toeside to save my life...

i am thinking less aggressive rear angle allows for better control- at least for me...

alex

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I definitely don't know what I'm talking about...but thought I'd mention something to learn from any responses...

I noticed for the first time last night that my transitions (to both toe/heelside) were a lot easier when I got low in the turns, then came up during the cross-through, unweighting the board in the process (then dropping low again in the subsequent turn). The board just seemed to float around to the other edge. For me it's definitely a "faith" move, 'cause I was always a bit nervous when I did it (half-expecting a massive edge-catch face plant every time)...but it worked out well.

Of course, I'm not riding a carving board, so that could change things a lot. :) (I said I didn't know anything...)

Scott

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I think Jack actually suggested that in another thread when someone was struggling with a similar problem. I started out running flat on the front but now run a slight toe lift but no cant. I also run with 6* lift in the back with a slight cant inward as well. I'm 6'3" 195lbs and have a 19.5 stance (18.5 on my Burner) with 60*F-58*R. I think eliminating the cant in the back is not neccessary but you never know til you try :D

Paul

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I hear this a lot---driving the rear knee toward the inside (toward the slope) on a turn. It makes sense, except one thing puzzles me...your knee doesn't *want* to go that way! :)

What I mean is...if I stand on the floor (not on a board in boots) with my feet at (for example) F50/R50, then try to push my knee toward the inside, it can't go very far IF the foot under that knee remains "glued" flat to the floor. Our skeletal structure just isn't made to bend that way! (Try it standing flat on the floor, and don't let your rear foot come even a millimeter off the floor---your knee won't go very far!)

So what's happening? Is your knee being *enabled* to drive toward the hill by your board tilting more on edge? Or is your boot flexible enough that your foot actually is *not* "glued" flat to the board?

I'm not arguing with the technique...just trying to understand it!

Scott

PS - I just realized all I said above was with a heelside turn in mind...but I think the same applies to toeside (I just stood up and tried it with the same results---can't move your knee out very much if you keep your foot "glued" flat to the floor.)

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worked great...It felt weird....really weird to stand on and step/clip into the rear. I added 1/2* of cant and that went away...over all removing cant turned out to be the perfect thing. As for my day I spent it at Happo One (pronounced Hop-oh O-ne) site of the Nagano Olympic Ski downhill, that course is brutal BTW, my thighs were toast when I finished it (yes it's still open) I had a few perfect runs where I had no skidded turns just carves...one was in front of my wife which stroked my ego for a while...at some point I'm gonna end up going Intec, or at least half, my wife (the skier) doesnt care for the wait at the top of the lift. The other thing that blew me away was the ease with which I could slash through a small moguls...I am not a mogul guy in truth I hate them but this RC is a lot of fun in the cruddy stuff...I have in no way found the limits of this board and will very much enjoy the next few years looking for them (thank you Bobby Buggs)

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