Matt888 Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Hello Carvers, I started boarding at age 15 till age 20 with alpine boards/hard boots in the last 3 years. When I re-started boarding at age 27 till now (age 38) I switched to freecarve/soft boots. I had in the past 11 years a Hot Fireball 162, a F2 Eliminator 167, an Elan Vertigo 168 and a Burton T6 162. I drove all these boards with Burton P1 carbon bindings and Salomon Malamute boots. This year I'm still using the Elan and Burton boards with the P1 carbon bindings and Salomon Malamute boots. But carving is still my weak spot and when I see alpine boards/hard boots coming by on the slopes it still itches quite annoyingly... So I just bought second hand board/bindings/hardboots to get started with and check it out!!! The board is a F2 Silberpfeil 168 model year 2008: The bindings are Proflex alu base Intec model year ?: The boots are Raichle Track 325 Race model year ?: I'm really eager to know how it will run... answer in 2 weeks time! Some questions regarding the bindings: What is the distance center to center between the 2 bindings? Should I put them a bit more up front or a bit more at the rear? What is the correct angle (more freecarve than race alpine)? I read angles in between 55 and 60° on the forum while I had in mind the front should be somewhere at 35° and the rear at 20°? Can I tilt the rear binding without putting plates underneath it? I measure 1,84m and wheigh 91kg. Regarding the boots, any advices on setup of these? Thanks for your help and friendly advices! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSSage Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 (edited) Welcome back to hard booting :) I hope you enjoy it and learn quickly. and that is a nice looking board you bought, I'm a big fan of F2 Some questions regarding the bindings: What is the distance center to center between the 2 bindings? Not quite sure what you mean so I'm not going to comment... Could you explain? If you mean stance width then 45cm is a good place to start for most people then you can experiment with going wider or more narrow. Should I put them a bit more up front or a bit more at the rear? I would center them in the inserts read this http://www.bomberonline.com/resources/Techarticles/binding_setup.html What is the correct angle (more freecarve than race alpine)? I read angles in between 55 and 60° on the forum while I had in mind the front should be somewhere at 35° and the rear at 20°? I ride at 60 up front and 56 on the back foot. 35 and 20 is super low you would have to have a really wide board and really small feet to pull that off most people ride anywhere from 45 to 60 the angles are really just determined by how narrow the board is. I would go as low as you can on the back foot as long as you have no overhang and then set the front foot about 1-5 degrees higher. If your feet hang over its bad, and if there is a lot of board between your toes(or heels) and the edge you are to high. But you should experiment with this until you find your "sweet spot" Can I tilt the rear binding without putting plates underneath it? I assume you are talking about cant/lift. For the F2 bindings (the proflex are really just F2) you use wedges that go under the toe and heel blocks if you don't have any you need to order them I am not sure where you would get them if you are from Belgium. But they are pretty cheap and easy to set up (they just take a while) Hope I helped Edited February 12, 2013 by NSSage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted February 13, 2013 Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 (edited) Hey, nice gear! Silber might be a bit soft for your weight, but at least it would be easy to ride... I would start dead centre on the insert packs, see how it feels while "carving the carpet" and adjust from there, wider or narrower. More then likely, you'd go wider, you are a tall guy. Do not worry about binding angle values much. Just set the rear angle so that the toe/heel of the boot is just by the edge. Then, set the front one a bit steeper, maybe by 5 deg. As NSS said, it is probably a good idea to start with toe lift shims in front and heel lift shims in the back, no inward canting. They should have came with the bindings, but can be bought separately too. Have fun. Vertigo is an awsome board. Give it a go with the hardboots, too! I think that the spring system on your h/boots is up side down... It should still work, though. Edited February 13, 2013 by BlueB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted February 13, 2013 Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 The RAB setup is correct. It can be modified:http://lonbordin.blogspot.com/2011/02/rab-modification.html BUT Bomber's BTS system is far superior and worth the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted February 13, 2013 Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 The RAB setup is correct. Thanks for correcting me. It's been long time since I had boots with RAB... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt888 Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Thanks for your helpfull advices!!! I'll be trying that out very soon and keep you updated! Vertigo with hard boots... why not? Since I've got the equipment now, I can easily find out...:) Best regards, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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