Guest silversurf Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 I dusted off my Burton PJ (the first model made circa '89/'90) and got all sentimental about riding the big brute. I had sold the two different plates I owned when I was actively riding it as well as the boots. As time went on I just shelved it and moved on. So I'm wondering if anyone has ideas on converting the 5 hole pattern to a 4-hole that'll work with TD's or something. Another option might be to go find some old 5-hole plates and see if they'll fit my Deeluxe's (non-Stepins). Any thoughts, anyone dealt with this that wants to share? Regards, Colin S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangten247 Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 Colin, I work in a shop and back when Burton did the transition from 5 hole to 3D, I used to do a ton of T-Nutting of Burton 5 hole boards to convert to 3D, before then, I'd T-Nut to 4-H. If you can find a shop to do it,I think it will be expensive, not to mention I think you'd rip the board to shreds with a T-nut job and Trench Diggers installed. PJ-s are dime a dozen on ebay, best just to check there and pick one up cheap. I just passed on one for sale yesterday, it was a PJ 6.8 and it came with plate bindings. (And it was a 3D model). Opening bid was $45 with no reserve, shipping 40 bucks for a complete board/binding package. I thought the shippping was high so i passed on it, USPS Priority should only cost about 25 to ship a board in the Conti USA. The other alternative would be to again check the bay of "e" for some 5 hole Burton plate bindings, I've seen at least a pair a week for the last month which would work on your board, and I've seen them as low as 10 bucks a pair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gecko Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 if so that you are getting ripped off I think the most I ever paid wad $00.30 a nut/bolt combo which for a board if you know where you want things works out to $2.4 paying someone to that is a waste of money they parts can be found at Home Depot and requires little actual skill. Catecks or TD's is pretty much overkill and would likely rip the core out of the board but a softer more compliant binding should be fine. I would definatly go with 4x4 it's a bit stronger an attachment even though it increases the stress on the coreover the 3D... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangten247 Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 Expensive being a relative term here Gecko, considering the age of his board. When replying, I figure worst case scenario price wise and skill wise. Not everyone on the planet may have a workbench in our basement, be as experienced, talented, or mechanically adept as you or me, not to mention having Yankee thrift built into our genes. I don't assume anyone has the skills or talent to tackle the job correctly the first time without butchering or ruining his board. If he wants to do it himself, I also don't assume he owns a drill, drill bits / countersinking bit /t-nut bit, epoxy, bench, vise, etc. and any other handy man type stuff. Yes, the actual nuts are cheap, but the related stuff to do a nice job may cost some coin right there. If he's going to pay someone at a shop to do it, it could get expensive for the whole job relativly speaking compared to buying a used PJ. The shop rat doesn't work for free. You think someone will t-nut a whole board for $20 bucks? I would for a friend, but not if I owned a shop and was trying to earn a living from a customer. Its been a while since I have had to t-nut a board, but I remember that t-nut starter kit's cost, even at shop cost, was relatively cheap, but not dirnt cheap. For not much more he could buy a PJ these days with a 3D hole pattern. Unless he has the tools and wants to experiment, just find a new used PJ board. And yes I agree the 4H would be the better way to go for binding attachment purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gecko Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 I often think from my POV as a former snowboard manufacturer but I have explained the proceedure to enough people that it's just not that tough. And while all of those tool are nice all thats needed is a Hertie Gertie a paddle bit of the appropriate size (same as the t nut) a couple of regular bits and some epoxy...Bindings can be used to set the T-nuts they do a better job and anything I've ever found. In truth for a relative novice hand tools are better anyway. And I'm in the Navy now I never assume anyone actually knows how do do something...even people who are supposed to be trained to accomplish the tasks they are assigned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest silversurf Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 I'm fairly adept in the shop, so I'm not ruling out customizing some solution. I've considered the ebay idea as you've suggested, but figured I'd ask around first (looking for alternate ideas). I never really liked the Variplates much, but since this would be board I'd ride only twice a year or something I wouldn't worry too much about it. That's my "worst" case. My thought was to machine an aluminum base that converts the 5 hole to 4 hole. This would effectively raise the height of the bindings off the board enough that the effect could be odd at best (who knows, it might actually make the board responsive :-). I'll probably end up buying a pair used, but the thought of running newer 4 holes sounds fun to try. -c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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