Burton Step-In, Reactor Boot, Magnesium Clicker and Nitro Boot

[bruincounselor]

Rat-Trap Step in - I only have 3 hole disks and one of the step-in's was disabled when I was racing (use for your front foot, mechanism is easily swapped to fit your preference). I'd keep these if they worked with my fin-tec heels, but there is some spacing issue. Still lots of life. $75 - Edit, only the safety was disabled: see explanation below. SOLD

Reactor Boots - 28.5MP (~US 10.5), One buckle replaced (gate), no footbed, used and abused. Coldest boot on the planet - the duct tape cut down on snow entry. $25/make offer - anyone need parts? SOLD

Clicker binding - This is the magnesium, lightest step-in binding ever made. $75 - Sold

Nitro Boot - 28.5MP (~US 10.5), Used, but still decent. Stiff internal highback, speedlace liner, lace-up and buckle shell. I love these boots, but I moved to 100% hardboot so they must go. $75 - Sold

I will part with the whole Clicker set for $125 or a second board kit for TD3.

All prices plus shipping wherever you want from the northern US plains. PM for details or more/larger pics.

Edited January 29, 2013 by bruincounselor
Sold.

[MTB_DH11]

pm sent

[bruincounselor]

MBT_DH11: Quit surfing here and check your email. :)

pm sent

[bruincounselor]

Clickers sold. Any takers on the Reactor boots?

[emark7]

Are the Reactors a Intec compatible?

[bruincounselor]

Are the Reactors a Intec compatible?

No. Let me know if you want them anyway. I'm heading to the post office this afternoon.

[bruincounselor]

Step-in still available. Help a brother buy a lift ticket. :)

[breeseomatic]

Rat-Trap Step in - I only have 3 hole disks and one of the step-in's was disabled when I was racing (use for your front foot, mechanism is easily swapped to fit your preference). I'd keep these if they worked with my fin-tec heels, but there is some spacing issue. Still lots of life. $75

I have a few questions:

Are these Carrier or Race bindings?

Can the step-in function be re-enabled on the modified binding?

Can cant/lift be adjusted on these bindings?

And should these work with UPZ RTR boots size 26?

Thanks.

Edited January 23, 2013 by breesej

[bruincounselor]

I have a few questions:

Are these Carrier or Race bindings?

Can the step-in function be re-enabled on the modified binding?

Can cant/lift be adjusted on these bindings?

And should these work with UPZ RTR boots size 26?

Thanks.

1. These are the Step-In's - Neither Carrier nor Race Plate.

2. The parts to re-enable the (edit - the safety) step-in are long gone. You only really need the step-in feature on your back foot anyway and you can swap the hardware to the binding of preference. I ran them Goofy so the release lever was on the outside.

Just to be clear - one binding is still 100% operational; the other holds the boot very well, but is manual in nature.

3. Cant/lift can be adjusted with Burton or other plate - not included. I might have a spare 6 degree at home if you are interested.

4. They should work with your boots, but I can't guarantee it. I used them with a 28 Reactor and before that a Megaflex without issue. They will certainly get small enough. They dont work with Fin-Tech heels because the pins get in the way.

Edited January 25, 2013 by bruincounselor

[breeseomatic]

Can you post some detailed photos of the bindings and the modifications?

Thanks.

[bruincounselor]

I took a couple of additional photos today. While doing so I realized that both bindings work as step-ins - Only the safety was removed from the rear binding. The safety is intended to prevent smashed fingers while playing with the binding - It prevents the lever from rotating all the way forward unless the heel block is pressed down. The two left photos show the binding with the cover taken off the rear assembly. Look at the left picture you can see an aluminum block on the right binding - that part must be pushed down by the heel of the boot for the lever to rotate to the fully closed position. On the left binding you can see the loop of rod in the center of the heel piece - this is what actually forces the lever to close. Only the spring(s?) that hold the Al block up are removed - It does not impact the function of the binding, maybe your local hardware store has some that fit if you think it's an issue.

Clear as mud? Still only $75.

[breeseomatic]

Clear as mud? Still only $75.

Clear as mud! I'll take them. Do you accept PayPal? You can send me a PM, email or just reply with your PayPal address.

[bruincounselor]

PM sent. I can get it out on Friday once paid.

[breeseomatic]

Payment sent. Thanks!

[breeseomatic]

Got the bindings. This may sound dumb, but what side to the release levers go? Should I mount the bindings so the release levers are on the inside or outside? By your description above, the "rear" binding was the one without the safety, is it better the have binding with the operational safety in the front or rear?

Thanks!

[bruincounselor]

Either way works. I had the release on the outside - I don't think it really matters. As for the safety - I took it off the binding I used the most; sometimes snow would build up and be an issue.

The key to good function is to adjust the toe/heel to just the right length; trial and error.....

[breeseomatic]

Okay, thanks. I did some experimentation and it looks like "levers inside" has the most clearance with my boots. I found some springs at the hardware store and rebuilt the safety. Thanks for the tips, I'll try removing the safety if ice and snow start making it difficult to step-in.

Thanks again.