Guest vaguelyevilguy Posted December 16, 2004 Report Share Posted December 16, 2004 1) What's a detune? 2) How do I sharpen my edges (freeride board, not a carving one)? 3) Here's the feedback I've gotten on wax: Hot wax: good. temp-specific if you've got a thermometer, otherwise all-temp Notwax: good for wet snow, bad for dry unless under wax. Flouro sprays: ? Paste or rub-on waxes: ? I have a graphite base on my board. Do I need graphite wax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gecko Posted December 16, 2004 Report Share Posted December 16, 2004 Originally posted by vaguelyevilguy 1) What's a detune? 2) How do I sharpen my edges (freeride board, not a carving one)? 3) Here's the feedback I've gotten on wax: Hot wax: good. temp-specific if you've got a thermometer, otherwise all-temp Notwax: good for wet snow, bad for dry unless under wax. Flouro sprays: ? Paste or rub-on waxes: ? I have a graphite base on my board. Do I need graphite wax? I'll answer as best I can, 1) Detuning is when you unsharpen the edges near the tip and tal to help prevent hooking...it's best done with a stone not a file though you may not need it...only do it if you arenoticing a problem 2)Sharpening is easy though there is little difference between freeride board and alpine for a beginer start with an all in one sharpener/beveler. The Dakine kit sold here at Bomber is a good set for a beginer. I take one like it to the mountain with me (though I have added to and subtracted parts from mine. 3)Hot wax=good...learn to tune your own board it will save you money if nothing else. Notwax+never used it and I prolly never will Spray waxes work but wear off too soon same with paste/rub-on's Graphite based boards should be waxed at least a few times a season with a Graphite wax just so that you return some of the Graphite to the base...if it's starting to look whitish it needs graphite wax...the rest of the time it's your choice what wax you use (graphite is still nice though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vaguelyevilguy Posted December 16, 2004 Report Share Posted December 16, 2004 Thanks. I actually discovered the Carver's Almanac a minute ago, which has some awesome guides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrCR Posted December 16, 2004 Report Share Posted December 16, 2004 FYI I get all my wax from www.artechski.com as they are much cheaper than www.tognar.com for bulk wax. There are some good articles you might like to read at www.tognar.com too. Currently using: Swix Hydrocarbon - Base Prep on my nongraphite base (ironed in) Swix Low Fluoro LF_ (ironed in) And am thinking about trying some www.racewax.com 's fluoro overlay powder (sythentic corked in). For you graphite base, check out the Swix LF Graphite wax. As for edges, I'm currently using Beast guides on my base and Winning Edge guides for my side edges (both from tognar). Since you're not going be as focused in carving with this freeride setup, 1.5* base edge would probably be a good choice. i read somewhere about some freeriders using a different degree base ednge on their tips and tales then under their feet, but I can't remember where and haven't tried it myself. I would explore that option before detuning. I a mill file to get to the desired edge, switch to diamond and then ceramic for a nice finish. Don't use a mill file if you are already at the right angle as you will wear down your edges faster. Instead touch up with diamond and perhaps then ceramic for an extra smooth edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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