frunobulax Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 I don't see any chance to run 58-60° on neither Tantalus (width 17) nor Silberpfeil (18). We're talking about 65-75 depending on your skills/inclination and shoetype/size. Twice the price...what do you mean? Not enough? 1:4 would be more suitable? You cannot compare the two.. If you're buying a Virus you pay the price and eradicate it from your memory immediately afterwards. You fall in love with it, and maybe after a couple of seasons you sell it for twice the price of a non-custom. If it's worth it nobody can tell you because nobody has bought one for sensible reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 The costs are getting high for the tant, but is it worth twice the price of the F2?will you get twice the fun for twice the price?do virus use metal in their boards, or is it exclusively exotic aramids these days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 I don't see any chance to run 58-60° on neither Tantalus (width 17) nor Silberpfeil (18). We're talking about 65-75 depending on your skills/inclination and shoetype/size. i manage to run 60°r/65°f on a silberpfeil 172. m30 boots. pokkis' fuego alignment method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frunobulax Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 One of the unsolved enigmas in our sport.. how some of us can ride low angles without drag and some can't. Talking about me: Size MP 29.5, I need 21 cm for the same angles. One explanation could be that some (NSR) boards have a lot of taper and wider radii towards the tail.. therefore you have more trouble to run low angles on the rear foot than with classical shapes. The Tant has some taper (specs above), more than the Silberpfeil with its more classical shape, so I'd say that on the SP which is also 1 cm wider you can run lower angles than on the Tantalus. edit: metal, yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 One of the unsolved enigmas in our sport.. how some of us can ride low angles without drag and some can't. Talking about me: Size MP 29.5, I need 21 cm for the same angles. One explanation could be that some (NSR) boards have a lot of taper and wider radii towards the tail.. therefore you have more trouble to run low angles on the rear foot than with classical shapes. The Tant has some taper (specs above), more than the Silberpfeil with its more classical shape, so I'd say that on the SP which is also 1 cm wider you can run lower angles than on the Tantalus. edit: metal, yes. yes. my f2 has a nice 12m radial sidecut. on my donek, which is 14-20m, i have pretty much the same angles, but it's 20cm wide in the middle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 as far as recommendations for a good board go, how about a nice carbon/kevlar build from donek? if you ask nicely, i'm sure he can build a board that will turn nicely and launch you into LEO during transitions. oh. and make sure to get a herringbone/twill topsheet for über-bling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LambertoMI Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 pokkis' fuego alignment method - Can you explain this? I have not heard of this method.... I ride high angles, around 60, with a MP of 27. But, this is the old Burton wind/reactor boots that angle up on toe and heel. That with the race plates allow me get the board close to 90 degrees up without too much drag. Most of my boards are around 20cm waist and I have no issue with clearance. Actually, I almost have 1/2 - 3/4 clearance from the edge. I just parted with an F2 asym that had a 18.5 waist and had no issues with clearance. I won't know exaclty what I need until I drop bindings and boots on the deck. As far as price goes, it more about what I pay out. Odds are, I will keep this board for a long time, so its more about what are you getting for your money. For example, you buy a ferrari, its not the fastest car on the road, it may not be the best. But when you drive it, the feel is like no other. I would not mind to own a Ferrari, but I want to be sure this is the board that will feel right every time I ride it. With my small board exposure I am in very unfamiliar waters trying to figure out how to swim.... This is why I am asking so many obvious and silly questions. I am so far behind in technology and design that I am not sure where to start. If I lived in CO, this would be easy as I can go to a local shop and try all that I want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LambertoMI Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 That is a beautiful donek! Love the weave and it looks like a carbon fiber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 it certainly is. as for the cost of importing a €uroboard, maybe you could take an alpine holiday, sample some f2, oxess and virus, then take one or two home with you .. oh. fuego method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LambertoMI Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 :lol: FEUGO METHOD!! Love it..... I have debated the alpine holiday, but once you add $500 in trip costs to test a few boards, its almost better to buy one, ride it for a while, then buy another if you are unsatisfied.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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