Mountain Bike advice?

[newcarver]

I currently ride an old Specialized Stump Jumper. Wanted to upgrade to a soft tail bike. Will be doing a lot of uphill and technical downhill singletrack. Want a bike with less of a weight forward stance. I used to race motoX and BMX so a more upright position feels a lot more natural for me. Which frames have this stance. Just getting into this after riding all last summer. Hope to find a good used bike in the $500-1000 range that will get me through the next couple of years. Appreciate any advice to a noobie MTBer.

[Allee]

Bikes are like snowboards. You'll never know what you like until you sit on it ...

You can always change the geometry of the bike with a different stem, layback seat posts, and angled headsets, so it's not like you're stuck for options if it's not quite what you want.

If you want a suspension bike in that $$ range, you're looking used for sure, and you're not going to get anything wonderful. Out this way, used Konas tend to go for the cheapest prices. They're reasonable bikes, nothing fancy, but they're at least tough.

Have you checked out the classifieds in your area on PinkBike, for XC/race bikes? That might be a good place to start, and then post with things you're interested in and we can slag them for you ...

[D.T.]

Will be doing a lot of uphill and technical downhill singletrack. Want a bike with less of a weight forward stance.

One problem here - that upright stance will lighten the front wheel when climbing, potentially making the bike difficult to control on the climb.

If I read your requirements correctly, you want to be comfortable, but also be able to bomb the downhill. There is a simple solution... get a bike with a height adjustable front fork. Rockshox made the Pike and is currently making the Domain, both of which are height adjustable by turning a screw located on the top of one of the fork legs. Fox also makes the Talas which only requires rotating a lever ~90°. Manitou made the Nixon, which operated at the push of a button. I'm sure there are many others that I have not mentioned.

Drop the fork to a lower height setting (3" or 4") for the climb up, then raise it up (5" or 6") and bomb down the hill. The change in geometry is very noticeable, both on the climb and the decent.

As Allee mentioned, changing the stem can make a substantial difference in the riding position. You just have to be willing to dial things in, it's a lot like a pair of hardboots.

Hope to find a good used bike in the $500-1000 range that will get me through the next couple of years.

There is no way you will get a decent bike at the low end of your price range. If you do find one, anticipate that it is beat and will need lots of love during the few years that you own it.

At the high end of your price range, you might get lucky and find someone trying to sell a good bike because they have upgraded to something different.

Here is one for example: http://denver.craigslist.org/bik/2317524867.html

This particular seller is sick and tired of the lookey-loos and Nigerian scammers, and would be willing to deal on the price. (yes, a shameless plug, but fits your criteria...)

Back on topic - the point being, if you search, you can find something decent. Good luck.

[Guest]

If you want a suspension bike in that $$ range, you're looking used for sure, and you're not going to get anything wonderful. Out this way, used Konas tend to go for the cheapest prices. They're reasonable bikes, nothing fancy, but they're at least tough....

I will second the Kona thought, sans disparaging remark. I love my Kona.

Look at the Dawg or a Coil-Air (I have the Coil-Air Supreme) as the Geometry sounds pretty much like what you were describing. They also both happen to be frequent demos, so if you can find an ex-demo fleet bike from a reputable shop, you'll get a bike that has been well maintained, if well used. They tend to be a bit heavier than some others, but the stability on the downhills/rockgardens makes up for it.

[Allee]

I will second the Kona thought, sans disparaging remark. I love my Kona.

Not disparaging nuthin'. :) I have two of them - a 2007 Dawg, which, for Newcarver's info, I paid $800 for - and I just bought an Operator as a freeride bike. But for some reason, mountain bikers in general have the hate on for Konas, and they're worth nothing used.

The Dawg was my first suspension bike, and the first one I took to the mountains. I have smashed, crashed and bashed that sucker for a season and a half, and it comes up smiling more often than I do.

[Blue Bird]

cross country machine - Rocky Mountain Element

Freeride machine - Yeti 575

Downhill machine - ???

everything you wanted in a mountain bike and more - YZ 250

[Hilux]

Ya, it's best to get out there and just try a couple. You'll know pretty quickly if the geometry is okay. Remember to, if it's a close fit/call, you can change stem length/rise, handlebar sweep/width/rise and move saddle backwards/forwards in small increments (be careful with this b/c you don't want a bad pedaling position). However, maybe start to look for something with a bit more slack geometry...like a 68* or 69* head tube angle for starters. Some companies like Cannondale have adjustable angles (using three shock positions to change head angle). I find 68-69* a good compromise between xc and all mountain freeride. However, as you probably know too, other factors like fork travel with affect geometry.

-I know a few people on kona's. Coil-air/dawg great place to start

-rocky mountain slayer: either standard or sxc

-giant trance

[icebiker]

Hey Newcarver, me thinks that if you plan to ride the terrain you say, you'll want to up the ante on your spend if you can push your budget. For an FS (full susp) bike, expect to spend about $1,300 on up. That will give you a solid frame, good shock and fork, and components that will take some abuse. You'll pay a slight weight penalty (maybe 3-4 lbs more than an SRAM XX or Shimano XTR equipped bike), but for noobie to intermediate riders, it's a good compromise. If you can get to $2,000, you have an even wider range of options.

Here are some other factors to consider:

Manufacturer: The big companies (Specialized, Cannondale, Giant, Trek, etc) typically come with lifetime frame warranties. If you ride nasty terrain, that's a good insurance policy. They also have more buying power, so you get more for your money parts-wise. Smaller/boutique brands typically have 2 year warranties (Salsa being the exception at 5, IIRC)

Your dimensions: If you're tall (say 6' +) consider a 29'er bike (29" wheels vs the standard 26"). While they are a bit heavier than an equivalent 26'er, they tend to roll over technical terrain better.

Bike shop: If you buy from a bike shop, they'll set you up right, fit-wise (including swapping stems, bars, seats, etc). I can't stress enough how important it is to get the right fit on your bike. If you buy mail order or via classifieds, you'll spend more $$ and more time (which is measured in $$ ;-)) trying to get it to fit. I've been there, done that...

Demo: Good bike shops will have some models to demo. If you're looking at FS bikes, good idea to arrange a demo of a few models...as there are many different suspension designs out there, each with their +'s and -'s.

Hope this helps!

[skatha]

Good luck with the price range. I have a hard tail Novara that cost $450! I'm taking it to WP this summer to try it out on some steeps (reference point-Houston, elevation 125 feet)

[newcarver]

Thanks for all the info and input. Just bought a frame and shock in like new condition. Will build it up from there. That way I won't be spending a big chunk all at once. Ended up with a Salsa El Kaboing. I think this bike will fit the bill nicely. I'll probably end up with a lot more that 1K in it when I'm done though Probably worth it in the end. I will be able to put the exact components on it that I want.