Binding stiffness versus board stiffness

[BadBrad]

I have a set of TD2 bindings (yellow e-rings) plus a TD3 2nd board kit (also yellow e-rings). These are going on a Prior WCR metal and a Madd 158. Would you put the softer TD3 setup on the Prior or on the Madd? I'm thinking that the softer suspension would be a good match on the Prior, but perhaps it would be better to balance out the stiffer Madd with the softer binding? The Prior is used as an all-around carver and all-mountain board, and the Madd for short quick turns when the slopes get crowded.

[Mike T]

I have a set of TD2 bindings (yellow e-rings) plus a TD3 2nd board kit (also yellow e-rings). These are going on a Prior WCR metal and a Madd 158. Would you put the softer TD3 setup on the Prior or on the Madd? I'm thinking that the softer suspension would be a good match on the Prior, but perhaps it would be better to balance out the stiffer Madd with the softer binding? The Prior is used as an all-around carver and all-mountain board, and the Madd for short quick turns when the slopes get crowded.

When matching up bindings to boards in my quiver, the stiffest bindings go on the skinniest boards. (In particular, bindings with the least side/side dampening go on the skinniest boards). Why? I find side/side dampening helpful at lower angles (keeps me from unintentionally kinking board in middle when regaining balance after a bump or mistake) and harmful at higher angles (at high angles the ankles get taken out of the picture and I reply more on side/side movements to switch edges).

[BadBrad]

That makes sense. The Madd 158 is skinnier and uses slightly steeper angles, so I'll put the stiffer setup on it.