gTa Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 Hi, I have a 2007 F2 Silberpfeil with 2007 F2 Intec TitanFlex bindings and 2003/2004 Blax Ingemar boots. The set has been used for approx. 30 days of rather intense riding, not more. I have a problem with the bindings : the boots do not fit really well, even when clicked into place, they're kind of loose in two ways. I can lift my toes up: there is some mm of room between the front boot block and the front bail (especially of the rear boot). I can rock the boot from left to right: the inner Intec pin from the heelpiece has enough clearance when clicked in the hole, so that the boot van rock several degrees from left to right. Those two combined, make it feel as if the boot/binding fitment isn't that sturdy at all, and honestly: i'm not too happy about it. What can i do? I reinstalled the bindings so that they fit the boot as good as possible. The front bail height isn't adjustable on the TitanFlex, only on the RS and the Titanium. What else can i do? How can one "allign" the boot better with the holes in de Intec binding? Thanks a lot for your advice. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 That doesn't sound right, but as you say you don't get the toe height adjustment in that model so you're kind of limited there. Perhaps the boots don't mate particularly well with the bindings, although they should be standard. I've not had that problem so I don't really know what the issue is I suppose it's obvious that you can control the binding length, and to some extent that increases or decreases the front-back pressure on the boot, increasing or reducing hold a little. But really that shouldn't be necessary and may make it harder to clip in. It sounds like this wasn't a problem on "day one", but something which appeared over time. If so, then are the holes on the Intecs worn or something? They are slightly elongated out of the box I think, but perhaps there's wear there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gTa Posted March 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 Yes, a little. And indeed, it's something that arose over time, in the beginning the boot wat rock solid in the binding. I just went up to look at them again, snapped the boots in place ... and it seems that the major part of the probleme is due to the width of the rear Intec steel thing. It's like the binding is just too wide for the boot or heelpiece, so the boot can be rocked from left to right considerably. I just made some pictures and some videos, i'm preparing them to put them online, so you guys can see the extent of the problem. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gTa Posted March 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 Here we go, hope you guys get an idea of the problem with these : http://users.skynet.be/kantooramez2/front.wmv (4,47 MB) http://users.skynet.be/kantooramez2/back.wmv (5,44 MB) And some pictures : http://users.skynet.be/kantooramez2/frontleft.JPG http://users.skynet.be/kantooramez2/frontright.JPG http://users.skynet.be/kantooramez2/bootleft.JPG http://users.skynet.be/kantooramez2/bootright.JPG http://users.skynet.be/kantooramez2/snappre.JPG http://users.skynet.be/kantooramez2/snapleft.JPG http://users.skynet.be/kantooramez2/snapright.JPG http://users.skynet.be/kantooramez2/snapfront.JPG Any ideas & help are welcome! Thanks, guys. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabor Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 Your bindings are surely too long for the boots. Try reducing the length. The ability to lift the toe and the loose binding with the heel receiver is an indicator of improper length adjustment. The length should be set so tight that clipped in you shouldn't be able to rock the boots with hands. Light movements can be possible if you are in the boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gTa Posted March 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 OK, thanks. That helped, but it isn't totally gone. But it's better already. Some more thought? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordy Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 OK, thanks. That helped, but it isn't totally gone. But it's better already. Some more thought? Have you checked the intec heel screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDY_2_Carve Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 Not sure if this applies, but I've got yellow shell Head Stratos Pros and F2 Intec Titanflex and have no issues with slop. Actually they are probably more solid than TD2 SI's for whatever reason. I love my F2's! The teflon Intec heel receiver is FAR superior than the Bomber/Catek version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDY_2_Carve Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 Hey, I was thinking about this earlier and I had two random thoughts: 1) Did you adjust the front (toe) piece with the phillips screw that's on the front of the binding? You are right the Titanflex doesn't have a micro-adjust, but you can adjust the toe block with that phillips screw. Set your Intec heel then "micro-adjust" using that screw. Forgive me if this is a "captain obvious" situation, but I figured it might have been overlooked. Not having the micro adjust on the bail itself is a good thing IMHO as I've heard the micro adjusters on the titanium model loosens over time? I can't verify this but I remember reading it online somewhere when I was purchasing my Titanflex. 2) Make sure you have equal cant/lift on both heel and toe blocks. Again a random thought but if they weren't the same it would create a bunch of slop in the system. I hope this helps, otherwise sorry. :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDY_2_Carve Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 I just watched your second video and that toe block is way too loose. It looks like you have the toe block moved all the way back, so it might not adjust any further back? If that is the case you need to move the heel block back a notch or two then move the toe block forward some so you can adjust it both forward and back (to fine tune it). If there is no adjustment possible then you have the wrong sized bindings. Perhaps you bought the Large version and your boots are too small? According to hardbooter.com on the Carve RS model: Medium < 27.5 MP Large > 26.5 MP If you are outside of that range then it'll never work right. Let us know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 The length thing is tricky - my boots are right on the boundary and I can get away with the small bindings, but obviously you have to get it right. That said, you're either in the range or you're not, which should be easy to see. I wouldn't worry much about the micro-adjuster. I have both types of bindings and although I happen to use exclusively the "race" ones at the moment, those adjusters aren't much use really. I'd put them in the class of "things I could do without and which may just cause trouble". The design of the toe pieces appears otherwise identical across the two sets (although my sets are different model years). I looked at the images and the wear didn't seem any worse than mine. But I've ridden one pair of these since they first came out (branded "proflex" or some such) and they don't wear much. I do make sure they're tight length-wise, and they should lock solid. But if yours used to be bang-on and now they're not, something must have shifted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cfj04 Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 To reaffirm some other opinions, you do not have your heel and toe blocks spaced properly. With your bindings, as the toe block is moved towards the boot, the toe lift will diminsh since the bail will be pushed forward which also leads to it being pushed down. That is why there is no need for toe heigth adjustment. The heel slop will also decrease since there is now more pressure at the interface. You should have a centerline inidcator at the bottom of your boot. Is it centered on the binding? If it is, can you move the toe block back? If so, do it. If not, move your heel block at least one space forward. It takes a bit of tinkering to set them right and then you should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.