Jump to content
Note to New Members ×

Concave base? Edge high??


Blackbird

Recommended Posts

Got a question for you guys/gals out there...

I have a board that is a little edge high towards the tail... (about 350mm from the rear binding to the tail) it's a FP 164

It's like .030" or 0.75 mm when measured with a true bar....the rest of the board is dead flat from the back of the rear binding to the nose.

Just wondering if it's anything to worry about yet I've been riding it for two seasons and only just noticed it when tuning it after my trip from JH...

How deep does the warping have to get before It impacts my ride??

I've never checked this before and I thought it only happened to boards that get ridden lots of days in a season....:smashfrea

Any thoughts??

Thanks again

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like edge high, maybe a little more skittish if it's ridden flat, but who does that with a carving board? This condition is much better than a convex base, be happy! More bite when it's up on edge.

:lol: Never thought of it like that.......

I occasionally bomb runs going dead flat in my psycho tuck speed position...... usually stop when my eyes start to water under my goggles!!!

I can always use more bite in the tail!!! Thanks!!

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would save the "pyscho tuck" for the big boards and just rip a file over the edges intill they come down a bit. If your board is railed enough to matter you would feel it grab and swim while straight. No big deal intill it hooks up and throws ya.

Very common in boards that get ridden since plastic is just a little softer then metal and wears aways. It should be easy to rip the edge to match the base.

I unlike Chris prefer a convex based so the edge only matters when I want it. It makes the board very slick and fast.. A board that is overly concaved will feel like its on railroad tracks if allowed to worsen. Which can be a cool feeling if you don't mind going where the board wants to go VS where you want to go..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would save the "pyscho tuck" for the big boards and just rip a file over the edges intill they come down a bit. If your board is railed enough to matter you would feel it grab and swim while straight. No big deal intill it hooks up and throws ya.

Very common in boards that get ridden since plastic is just a little softer then metal and wears aways. It should be easy to rip the edge to match the base.

I unlike Chris prefer a convex based so the edge only matters when I want it. It makes the board very slick and fast.. A board that is overly concaved will feel like its on railroad tracks if allowed to worsen. Which can be a cool feeling if you don't mind going where the board wants to go VS where you want to go..

General consensis is that it's not really a big issue till it starts throwing you off... Which I'm a little surprised but relieved to hear....It doesn't swim at all... if anything it's quite mellow at speed (Could be the detuning doing that too)

It gets up to a decent speed with the 11.79 scr, but the 178 I have is on another level...

Thanks again Billy... Much appreciated!:biggthump

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I'm not mistaken, a wide Panzer file - sold by many of the tuning suppliers often discussed here - will make short work of your problem. My limited experience indicates that these coarse files remove a lot of material, so you have to be careful.

More experienced tuners on this forum may want to jump in with comments on the Panzer.

I have a 164 Alp that's slightly concave, and it's never bothered me. Hope to add a 171 for next season (are ya listnin', Derf?) that'll probably also be concave.

A slight base edge bevel might reduce the tendency to "hook" when ridden flat?

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Typical base thickness at the time of manufacture is 1.2mm (.047in) to 1.4mm (.055in). If you are .030 out at the center, I would look carefully at the amount of steel edge left on the board before starting to remove material.

I base ground a Burton that was extremely concave once. One pass on an 80 grit belt went right through the remaining base material at the edge of the board. This board was brand new and sold as a Demo, so it wasn't covered by their warranty. The real point is that we typically remove material at the base grinding phase of manufacturing. I would say at least .2mm is typically removed in finishing. A board that was concave after pressing is likely to have had a lot more removed.

Be careful. If you're not sure how much you can remove ask someone who knows what they are looking at. Your edge is roughly 0.5mm (.020in) thicker than the base material. This can change with the process the manufacturer uses to assemble the board. Some of the boards out there have fiberglass between the edge tabs and the base material, making that number even bigger. If you watch the TV show How it's Made", you've seen this done. The Karhu plant uses this process in ski production. That plant is responsible for a large number of Burton snowboards. I do not know if they produce snowboards with this technique.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...