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Raichle Boot Cant Adjustment - Seized - Any suggestions?


jhcolman

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Hi All

I previously posted on how to adjust the boot cants on my sons Raichle 225's. Thank-you all for some great advise. We've tried adjusting the cants. However, the bolt is sized on one boot and the hex nut slot on the bolt is starting to strip. Any solutions or suggestions? Would any of you folks at Bomber have a solution (we bought it from you about 13 months ago)?

Thanks

Julian

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Guest Randy S.

The old forum had a great series on this. Unfortunately the old forum seems to be down. KJL and Hiroshi have both done a superb job of replacing their cant adjusters. The old forum had pictures Hiroshi had published with step-by-step instructions. He drilled out the holes and replaced everything. Ken, Hiroshi? You got those old pics and details?

Here's the link to the old post in case the old forum comes back up:

http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=17266

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Well, whether you do my fix or Hiroshi's fix it sounds like you'll need to destroy the bolt to take it out. If it backs far enough out before stripping you can sneak a dremel tool under the head and simply cut the thing off. Otherwise, you'll have to do what I did, which is put the engraving head of the dremel tool on, stick it into the hex hole, and widen and deepen the hole until what's left of the head falls off. Pour water frequently on it or risk sizzling hot metal and melting plastic.

You'll need to get replacement cant assemblies from bomber (see http://www.bomberonline.com/store/boots/parts_sb.cfm). They sent me replacements free of charge because the boots were so new and because they are awesome.

Then, to avoid breaking them again, you can modify the cant adjusters. The cant adjusters are basically a large piece of plastic with a toothed slot which a smaller piece fits into. The slot is bigger than the smaller piece (which is why it's adjustable - slide the smaller piece up and down and you get different cants). They usually "break" when the little teeth grind away so the position doesn't stay put or you strip the bolt trying to tighten it down.

Hiroshi's fix is to find the cant position you like, set the pieces together, and fill all the airspace with epoxy so the smaller plastic piece can't slide around anymore.

My fix is similar, except I cut out little crescent pieces of plastic to fill the airspace (I think I used 3/8" HDPE plastic, available at TAP plastics or any other plastic place, I'm sure).

The AF600 uses a different canting mechanism (I could be wrong - I'm judging it from this year's Deeluxe Susuka, which I assume is the same boot). It looks like it probably won't slip unless the bolt is completely missing (so if it's in a good location I wouldn't worry about it). It's kind of a funky mechanism - you unscrew the bolt until you can pull out the little grey plastic piece with the tiny molded triangle indicator a little bit, rotate it 180 degrees, and push it back in (so there are 2 settings). I don't actually own AF600's so I could be completely full of crap. As usual.

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...I recommend buying some better bolts than the ones that will come with the replacement cant assemblies.

Get some good stainless steel socket head cap screws (I believe you want #10-32 length: 1/2") and you get better material which is less likely to strip out and a larger allenhead size than that little tiny 3mm one on the current bolts.

I get them at http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/socket_head_cap_screws.html.

Oh, and get #10 flat washers (to sit in between the new screw and the cuff plastic). Mine have a .450 outer diameter. I don't remember if it was a perfect fit but it's good enough.

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