Chubz Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 Folks, This may seem like a simple question, but the last board I bought came with a cutout from the tail that was attached to a keychain. While sitting in a company meeting (boring), I began to study the piece and in doing so, notice the machined aluminum in the tailpiece. Checking some of my other boards, they have it as well through the tail. I only found this intriguing because I have spent the summer prepping for building boards this fall. Press built, core resawed, expoxied, resawed again and epoxied again, forms made, bladder finished and material ordered. I thought I had all of my material ordered until I saw this aluminum. Is the aluminum being used instead of the tail filler, instead of plastic? I hvae already order the tip and tail fillers, but if the AL function better, that what I wanna go with. Plus it looks good. I will post some pics on Thursday. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Walters Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 I'm no experienced board builder but I would think aluminum would be pretty difficult to work with in relation to your standard plastic fillers. It sounds like you have a pogo (the cutout on the keychain) and they tend to go all out on features that if you're building a homebrew you don't really need. I'd get the hang of building boards using the "traditional" layup before you start experimenting with fancy stuff. That's my oppinion but you could also let some people who have more experience chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pow Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 Folks,This may seem like a simple question, but the last board I bought came with a cutout from the tail that was attached to a keychain. While sitting in a company meeting (boring), I began to study the piece and in doing so, notice the machined aluminum in the tailpiece. The same thing happened to me, except at precalc class. Im pretty sure the aluminum is mainly for tail protection. I dont think it's necessary in alpine construction, but it seems to work well on these boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 The aluminum isn't necessary. There are a lot of manufacturers who choose to use it instead of plastic. I use plastic tail extensions in part because I try to minimize my contact with toxic chemicals. If designed and finished properly, you won't notice a difference between the aluminum or an ABS extension. Etching aluminum gives off toxic fumes and requires you store acid (can't remember the type). There are some aluminum primers available too, but I've never investigated them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derf Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 All my boards (past and present) have an aluminium tail protector. It's mainly to protect the board when it is standing up. One thing I have noticed on mine and read on the forum is that with aluminium, the corners delaminate quicker (I think...) because it is harder to make the fiberglass stick properly to aluminium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kent Posted August 10, 2006 Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 Ditch the alum tail protector....just another place for the tail to delam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcross.au Posted August 11, 2006 Report Share Posted August 11, 2006 i sharpen those to deter race club in lift lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted August 11, 2006 Report Share Posted August 11, 2006 Here are two F2 SL's from different years. What I have found when comparing "apples to apples" with and without the aluminum tail protector is that the more modern F2 delams a lot. Actually, it has been a little annoying. The older one with the aluminum tail protector has never delammed (neither have any of my other boards with the same aluminum tail protector) even after several hundred days on the board. I believe that the culprit is riding switch. With the tail protector, it was not an issue, but without it, the laminated layers are constantly being bombarded with snow and ice while riding switch. The newer board delammed at the tail within two days. After fixing it, it continued to delam several more times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pow Posted August 13, 2006 Report Share Posted August 13, 2006 so i guess aluminum tail protection is the best way to go after all:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
groovastic Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 have you tried your Pogo yet? comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubz Posted September 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Just picked it up this summer and waiting for December here in PA. I look forward to it though. If i rememebr I will post how it rides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 alu as said makes the board delam when it hits a hard surface since it does not absorb vibrations at all > it is also heavy on the tail ( inertia).. Alu has been used for ages ( my burton safari weights a ton and is all alu tail block protected) Abs is a good solution but it does not like to be harmed too much... we ( virus production ) have had great results with urethane ( like skateboard wheels) since it bumps on the hard.. its a bit tricky to stick to the resin thu and more expensive to manufacture. Advantage of the urethane: you can regrind down the whole nose/tail when it is harmed ( other advantage of not having a wrapped edge) Nils Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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