kmartshopper
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Posts posted by kmartshopper
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Originally posted by neil sunday
Take a cutting board and bandsaw it out... Drill out hoels for your screws, and order stainless bolts to compimetn from a hardware store. I just raised my TD1's and used 10mm of lift..
Did you do this to just lift the bindings 10mm all over, or did you taper the peice so the binding was actually tilted a few degrees with the heel higher than the toe?
I'm pretty maxed out on the rear foot lean, and would like to get the 'lean' from the bindings, and leave the boot in a somewhat neutral position.
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Finally had my first day on hardboots this weekend, and I improved greatly over the few days. I was railing on a salomon precept 167 (265mm waist!) - and I'm beat to crap! Donek FCII 171 arrives this week!!
Anyway, my question...
I believe I could benefit from at least some rear foot heel lift. My question is how do I go about getting that? I'm running older snowpro race bindings. Are there generic shims... or do you need specific hardware?
Thanks.
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Originally posted by philw
Duck.
I think it's supposed to help riding switch, which I guess makes sense. Although the "trick" aspects of riding backwards are less impressive if you're not actually riding backwards, in my opinion.
I'm not much of a trickster, but I do like to make a few fakie turns once in a while. It's becomes really tough with high angles because in a fakie toeside carve, you are basically looking directly behind you. The old adage about target fixation - 'go where you look' - falls apart. Turns into more of a 'go where you fart' situation.
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Originally posted by Fleaman
Maybe it can be done, but I have yet to see a softbooter carve anything with a pitch and enjoy it.
I haven't even had a chance to ride the hardboots I just bought... but that is the precise reason I got them.
On a scale of 1-10, I'm maybe a 5 in softies/Malimutes. Only a few times this season have I seen someone exceeding my capabilities on softies... and they were 6or7/10 at best.
Every single time someone grabs my attention ripping up the steeps and hardpack like I want to but can't --- (the 8,9,10's/10) they have never been on softboots. So if they exist, I've yet to see them.
I still intend to ride bumps/powder/woods on softies and a
K2 Recon Riser 161 (light) and a Salomon Precept 167 (wide). I'll try bumps on the hardboots, but I like jumping and popping around off the bumps, and I don't know how well that would work.
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Originally posted by 350
I have a 168 Volkl and love it
it goes through anything
im also ride the east coast ice and this board is unbelievable it holds anything 'i never road a 173 volkl or a F2
That's good to hear. From Volkl's site, it looks like >= 168 is a GS, and a <=163 is a SL... the GS has some added structure, in addition to the obvious length. Are you still able to really tighten up the turns on some of the more narrow trails? That's what I was afraid of with the stiffer board... don't know if a 163 would be better for me than either the 168/173.
I'm finding the Volkls are easier to find (and cheaper)... so I may end up going that way anyway.
Thanks for all the feedback.
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My knee was still too messed to try the powder yesterday :( but if the stars align, I may try to shake off some cobwebs at Okemo Friday. Just for the day though.
I still haven't found a carving board anyway... so I'll be in softies, but I'd love to see the sites and check out some of the carvers and kEwL gear in real life.
p.s. Out of Bounds at Killington doesn't carry alpine gear anymore, although the guy that runs it seems pretty helpful, and it seems like a good shop (I plan to try them when it's time to get a grind).
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Originally posted by Phil
You are from CT, right? I would say the F2 as well. If you ride the small CT mts.,...
Hmm... sounds like the the F2 is a bit more my style then... I'd like to be a little tighter turning. I don't actually ride CT, but mostly Killington - still tough to really open it up in most situations.
I just wonder how much I'd be giving up in edge hold on icy conditions? That's one of the main reasons I'm making the leap to hardboots... seeing hardbooters still carving hard when I get to the point where I can't bite in with my freeride board/softies.
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I've emailed you regarding the board.
Any chance you have more pics to post?
THanks.
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Stats: Edge, Waist, Sidecut, Taper
Volkl 173RT: 154.5 19.0 11.7 5
F2 172silberpfeil:155.5 18.4 11 0
To the newbie seeking a first board, these boards seem quite similar. I was thinking of the Silberfeil cuz of the freecarve designation. Would the volkl be much stiffer? How much of a diff would that .7m larger radius really make? From what I've read, the volkl has more of a 'racing' reputation - but is that just marketing/brand imaging?
6'4", 175#, NON-racer. East coast hardpack. Don't intend to do bumps, pwdr, or trees with this board. I do know how to carve fairly well (on softies), so I'm not a TOTAL newbie... just new to hardboots.
More thanks to everyone for all this great info and help!
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Originally posted by philfell
Ti has a different energy rebound than Al, hopefully giving a damper ride. Ti also has a longer fatigue life, metal can only flex so many times until it starts to crack and eventually break.
I don't remember where I saw it, but I'm fairly certain I also saw that the baseplates were still AL, and are anodized gold (I pity the fool who don't like TD2s!). Bales are TI (must be normally steel)... don't remember about the bolts. So probably only just the weight and bling.
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Yeah, I meant that I was waiting for some hardboots to get here, and I'll be using those. I was trying to be cheap and use this board with the hardboots - then get a more specific board after I get a feel for things.
I do ride just that... 30/24 with the malamutes - although I do still get a little overhang with sz29. I was actually planning to go higher with the hardboots (425s w/just old snopro race bindings) - start maybe 45/40 to see how it feels. I'm wondering how the wider board would affect - versus maybe a donek axis - which seems to be similar radius and edge, but like 21.5cm (probably a handful stiffer too).
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I'm awaiting the arrival of my first set of boots, and plan to learn using the "biggest stiffest" board that I already own.
It's a Salomon Precept 167. 9.3m sidecut, 1320mm edge, 312mm tip/tail 265mm waist (fatty!). It feels very stiff, holds a great edge, and is very fast and stable - at least when compared to normal boards you'd find in a typical shop :) . I have read that this is comparable to an earlier W5 or 550(FYI, but I don't know what they are.).
I can carve it heel/toe pretty well with malimute softies - but I can't bust the real hardpack, and have trouble tightening the turn radius (it doesn't blow out... just keeps tracking the same arc - gimme room!)
I'm 6'4" skinny-ass 175#. Love bumps, carving, and trees... well, except one tree in particular :(
My ideal board will be all-mountain, so I'm wondering what limitations to expect from this board - as compared to a top notch AM board. Think that fatness would be problematic?
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Trying to find some raichle's in decent shape with 4 straps, 5position lean, and thermoflex liners. Mondo 27. I'm in CT.
Drop me a line if you have anything around.
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Anyone have first hand knowledge of these two models?
I know the liners and the lean adjusters are different, but what about the shells? (speaking only about the larger 4buckle 413's).
If I bought a set of 413's and got thermoflex liners and a 5position adjuster, would I have essentially the same boot?
Thanks!
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Thanks for the info all. That's pretty much what I wanted to hear.
Now I'll just wait around until something pops up in a 27... just a few indy's in the classifieds now.
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Can someone chime in and tell me if I understand this right?
Indy's and suzuka's come with HPD liners.
Lemans & older xxxSB's come with the 'other' Deeluxe Thermoflex liner?
Has anyone used HPD liners in lemans's or 423SB's, or is this a no-no? I have narrow feet, and also don't want a terribly stiff boot, so I was going to try to go this route to use the SB shells with HPD liners (to better accomodate a large heel spur).
Thanks
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I just started to take the plunge into alpine gear...
Got my used bindings in the mail last week.... check!
Boots (413s) in the mail... will arrive this week....
...but...
Tore a knee ligament (MCL) on second run Friday morning at Killington
All I'll get to do now is admire my untested gear. On the bright side, maybe the hardgear will be more supportive and I'll be able to get out this spring if things go well.
I'll join you all someday... for now, just cry for me. :(
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Umm... what's the status?
Was the $250 offer too low, or did it just not work out?
You don't seem to have email. If it just didn't work out, I'd do $250 + shipping, but don't want to spend more than that at this point.
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Right now, I can carve OK on my softboot setup... as well as most of the decent SOFT BOOT carvers I see, and I love it. I'm using solomon (malimutes-precept167-SFXcarbon).
My observations have been that I...
...can't dig into as firm snow (chalk) as the hard booters.
...can't pull as tight a radius.
...have bone growth on the rear of my heel now from pressing into rear of boot on toesides carves (or hitting hard, rutty moguls on toeside).
My hope is that a hardboot setup would help me carve better, (of course :)), but also would minimize the hotspot on the heel. I think the overall hold and available custom moldability of a hardboot would help this situation.
Just wondering if your experiences agree with my hopes regarding the fit of the hardboots? I am not an ex-skier, and have no experience.
I'm also scared to mail order boots with my terribly narrow heel, but I can't find any gear in the area (VT, MA... maybe ME?) to try on. Should I just resign myself to mail ordering from a shop that will take returns, and just eat the shipping costs?
Thanks for any advice you could offer.
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How to get heel lift?
in Carving Central
Posted
Heh :)
Yeah, I'm still fighting things, and familiar enough to know what little tweaks I want yet.... I was just locking the rear foot in the most leaning position every time, and I wanted it to be more neutral for when I flip it into powder mode for bumps etc. I'll definately take the new board out first to get a good feel before messing with it.
But it sounds like it's not a good idea to just put a shim under the heel plate, and leave the toe plate flat, in order to get heel lift. Since I don't have any wedge shaped peices, I'd probably have to muck around to cobble something up.
Thanks for the info.
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