kmartshopper
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Posts posted by kmartshopper
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I checked my boots when I got home today and they are 27.5 actually - Raichle SB324's.
So they are yours crelling. (I'll follow up to your email)
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Will these bindings fit a 77.5 boot? If so i would like to buy them.
Regards chris
I can't say for sure - but I don't think they make different sizes binding - they just adjust for a wide range with a big screw that lengthens the overall binding. So unless it's an extremely huge or tiny kids size (assume you meant 27.5?), it would be fine.
oldsnowboards: thanks for the info - that seems plausible.
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I have a set of Snow Pro race bindings for sale. They still work great - and any ugliness in the pics is just the paint on the metal footpad surfaces (not sure why they all don't look like that). Not sure what the duct tape on the bail is, but it was there when I got them and I never took it off.
I'm not sure what the original hardware was, but the bodies seem to have a built in 3deg cant, and it comes with 4 corresponding canted shims - so the net result could be flat, 3 deg, or 6 deg of cant. Plus about 1/2" of orange ghetto shims I cut out of plastic to give me some heel lift.
Well regarded solid economical binding to get started on. How about $65?
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It's been my goal for a number of years to get really good at moguls and I've gotten quite a few pointers from this thread and RCrobar's old thread. I never put too much thought into where I was scrubbing speed on the bumps, but my eyes were opened by this thread. Last weekend, I started scrubbing on the uphill faces and tops of the bumps, instead of the downhill (icy) sides. Wow! What a difference!
Hey Sooper... was poking through that thread and couldn't find too much reference to specifics about scrubbing. That's my achille's heel... once these east coast moguls get firm and rutty, I can't control speed. With any soft snow, I'll go straight down Outer Limits at Killington. Like that guy in the video (nice job BTW!)... (only me in softies)... I couldn't do that cuz no loose snow... too fast. Put 3"+ of fresh in the troughs, and I could ride that that line np. Once "the hit" coming off the backside gets too firm and rutty - I do 2 or 3 turns and I'm going to fast.
Anyway, curious about your scrubbing topside technique. Realistically, I'm really only about the flow in the soft bumps - not out to prove my ability to tame unpleasant hardpack... but some days it's hit or miss, and I'd like to be able to tame the rutty spots better.
FWIW.... my eperience in bumps (which I love) with my boards:
169 Osin 3800 - Super fun with any new snow in any size bumps. Hard or rutty, the tail catches and the polar moment of inertia (
) is undeniably greater than a short board (for flicking).161 K2 Recon - old, super light, super trashed, huge base bevels - the spoon... my most fun all around bumper (I'm 6'4"). So light an maneuverable that sometimes I can unweight over a big bump, and by kicking with my trailing leg pop the board heelside, then bring it back toeside again, before coming back fully weighted. It's very fun, and I can't see ever doing that in hardboots or a longer heavier board.
161 Donek Incline - Heavier, stiffer, less sidecut. This is my newest board and so far I find that it doesn't "flow"' as smoothly in soft bumps, and is more punishing in hard bumps. I don't have a lot of time on it yet though... so maybe not fair.
173 Donek FCII - I still suck at hardbooting on groomers... so another unfair comparison.
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Hey, I have that board, those bindings, and those boots! You have great taste.
Interesting mod... I've used powerstraps and tongue pads/fillers from my hardboots in a similar fashion, and it does help - so I bet that full strap works well. Those laces and tongue area really does loosen up as the day goes along. I've been thinking of forming some thermoflex liners in the boots too... I have a brand new pair I got super cheap last year that I haven't even used yet - so the liners would have a 1-1/2 boot lifespan.
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I'll second the recommendation of the 3800... you can get one SOOOO cheap, and they are so much fun! I also have a Donek Wide, and while it carves harder, I think if I really had to pick one of the two - the 3800 would be it. Very maneuverable in bumps, and in trees, floats well in powder (169 for a 6'4"180lb guy), and carves really well. I bought a used one for the rare powder day, but I end up riding a lot. The Donek just seems more punishing in bumps, and I just can't seem to bring it around as quickly. Can't say why... but I really like bumps, and that's my impression with only a few days on the Donek so far though.
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Where were you guys 9 pages ago!!!! I WANT THAT 1/2 HOUR OF MY LIFE BACK!
:lol::lol:
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I met a fellow carver who was testing out a 10Hz GPS last time I rode with him. That will log multiple points through a single turn and should give you fairly accurate velocity and acceleration (lateral) values. I doubt either of us break 30 mph though :o
99.9% of GPS's are 1Hz, and velocity calcs are for $hite if you are carving turns. They are great for calibrating your speedo on the highway.
If you all want to paypal him $10 maybe he'll post a tracklog :lol:
(p.s. I'm not doubting anyone's speed claims... just commenting on GPS talk)
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From someone who took aboput 10 days to even learn to stand up - well done, young one. Now you just need some gear, a mentor who knows what he's/she's doing, and you'll really be carving.
I also want to hear about the first time you load the nose and go for the mackerel slap from hell. Cos you're not a real carver until you've done that!!
(Props to Terekhov for the awesome pic ...)
Now that's a 360!
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Nice job Clebner! Maybe this will be enough to get Warren Miller to visit Michigan.
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He carved a 360 and rode out. ...not that I wouldn't like to see more!!!:biggthump:biggthump
The ones I saw weren't ridden out. Stopped heading uphill on a snowy knoll.
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I ended up doing that slightly with some snopro bindings - not as bad as that deep one though...
If you don't know the thread size, just take one of the bolts down to the hardware store to match it. If they don't have nice stainless - or don't have the right length or head type, you could find them online at a place like http://www.boltdepot.com/ (or lots of other places).
The grinder would be fine, just be careful with those bolts afterwards - they will be easier to cross-thread or mess up your inserts if you don't do it cleanly.
I think something like Hysol 608 would work fine. It's usually for delam or base repairs, but is pretty tough and not super brittle - should fill that hole up good (mainly to prevent further damage from water etc.) That's $20 a tube from Tognar.... probably can get locally.
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Good videos, and it does look like a solid 360deg carve... but to be honest, I was thinking you'd ride it out, instead of ending on an uphill. Can you swing that? Much more impressive IMHO. I think that's what most of the tail swishes we see are trying for.
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Before I ordered a Donek Wide, I emailed Donek asking if they knew the weight - and Sean actually weighed one for me. Purty kewl.
Jake hadn't responded to my inquiry regarding the T6 by the time I placed my order.
I am somewhat concerned with swing weight, but don't know more detail than which one of my bindings are the heaviest, etc.
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Huh?
With my baby feet (8-8.5 US, depending on model) and 21/6 angles I still have some overhang. Board carves like a beast for me. I can make it work with 45/35 and serious underhang too, but using 3-strap bindings... I also think that 3800 has shallower sidecut then majority of freeride/freestyle boards (9.5m radius).
My 2c CAD.
I just picked one of these up off the classifieds as a cheap entry into the light duty east coast powder board arena. I was so surprised how much I enjoy riding the thing in many conditions. The 169 is quite light for it's size, and was much more maneuverable in the bumps than my old 167 plank. I was also able to hold quite a good carve in softies - actually ripping across a rutted GS course at Middlebury a couple weeks ago after the racers called it quits. I wasn't expecting any carving ability from it, so I'm very please - and that's even with what seem to be pretty high base bevels (by feel). I find no need to change boards after things get chopped up, and it's very maneuverable in the trees.
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If that famous photo of that petite woman standing next to the huge tinkler board was still up, it could honestly be captioned "I went with the short board today."
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A good trick is to mark your edges with a sharpie marker, then when you touch them up with a diamond stone, you see if you are really getting them. This will help see if you are base high.
Don't file the base edge after a good grind and bevel set... you will always end up riding base high without much to do but get reground. Just do the sides. After a while, especially if you ride woods or something - you'll get enough removal of material from the point of the edge that you have to file to get it to a point again. If the edge is smooth though... just not super sharp, this probably isn't the case yet (it will feel rough after it get's whacked up enough... even after deburring).
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I just got things down to 3 good boards that cover a pretty good range, and still fit in the car at the same time:
Donek FCII 171
O-Sin 3800 169
Donek Wide 161 (on it's way)
Then there's 3 more Broken/Rock boards at home:
2 - K2 Recon Riser 161's (such a frail ride)
Salomon Precept 167
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It seems to me that there are still a few pissed off skiers who whine about this and that but for the most part, everyone gets along and I think that's pretty cool.
I actually got some compliments from a cool skier today riding a pretty tough bump run today. He asked if I used to ski a lot of moguls. No... don't really know how to ski. He was a really good middle aged skier, but he thought it was really cool :o
the lack of mountain ettiquete is the issue, wether the wannabe gangsta's are on skis, boards, blades, or tubesSo true. I always defend snowboarding to any uptight skiers by pointing out that it's really just the young kids - and yes, it so happens that a lot of young kids ride snowboards.
Thing is... the media and corporate America is not what it was 20 years ago. It's had the strongest influence on kids (on purpose, and due to their impressionability). So this negative view of snowboarding is compounded by the fact that the 17 yr old boy on a snowboard is *statistically more likely* to be an overt A-hole than he was 20 years ago - when that kid was on skis.
So kids will be kids, but that doesn't change the fact that Burton (and others) play to this to make money and escalate the problem. Not that everyone doesn't do it, but not everyone plays the "I'm more laid back than you....." game while they are doing it.
Oh my god, I'm too young to be a grumpy old man!
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Where the snowboarders making the video cross the line is when they initiate contact with other patrons.
The thing that bothers me the most though, is that Burton selected that video out of many. Why? Because the participants were such a good fit for their propaganda machine. It's hard work keeping a company with a few $100 million in annual revenue at the forefront of the 'counter-culture'. Luckily, the bulk of their target audience is... let's say... impressionable.
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+1,000,000
I find lately that I have less and less tolerance on the hill and end up having more confrontations with the 'Core' (if that's the term du jour) set.
It's not the styles that they choose that get me fired up; it's the attitudes and it goes way beyond snowboarding.
Tim
I don't know if you're aware of the Burton campaign to get videos of rider poaching MRG, Alta, Toas, or Deer Valley? I didn't think it was terrible at first - I suppose it could be done without being an a$$.
Of course it wasn't though.... Go to burton's site and watch the vids that Burton, as a corporation, decided to put up? A bunch of cute Jr. high girls talking like punks with baggy pants riding over skiers tails and spending the entire run - not poaching the sweet off-limits MRG terrain - but intentionally harrassing intermediate skiers on groomers.
It's one thing for kids to do that. It's another thing for Burton to select that video for display.
I'm a cheap sumnabitch, and it pains me to pay full retail for a Donek/Madd/Prior, when I know I could get a leftover Burton off fleabay for 1/2 the price... but guess what I just did anyway? Those guys aren't making the $$$ off the extranious B.S., so the boards are going to cost more. I can deal with that.
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There can be higher edge angle if there is no boot out or binding out. You can get very low without "sitting on the ****ter". This comes fron core strength. A lack of this will allow your hips to externally rotate. Keep your abs fired as you move your butt to the snow.
I was just trying to point out what I think is one of the inherent limitations between high angle hardboots and low angle softboot was. I don't think that you'd argue - all other things being the same (balance, weighting, etc) - a higher edge angle will carve better.
Sit on the snow on your butt in the soft low angle setup with legs straight out - board 90deg to snow. Bend your knees into a crouch... it's tough to keep that board up at 90deg.
Sit/lounge on the snow on your hip with legs straight out with high angles in hardboots. Bend your knees into a crouch. That angle can be kept pretty vertical.
That's all I was saying. I like reading your tips on how to improve on that situation and I'm going to focus on giving it a try once all this nasty fresh powder is out of the way. FYI, I won't be in hardboots tomorrow :D
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I have gotten feedback that gingerbread man heelside carves are much harder (As I have found in the past) but if you can solve this.. I'm open to any suggestions.
I wonder about this too. On high angles/hardboots, it's (relatively) easy - or at least intuitive - to more laterally drive with knees and get the hip down towards the snow with a vertical torso. So getting the board up on edge (which is what it's all about) is somewhat intuitive. You also aren't inherently counteracting that angle as you crouch further down.
I find low angle heelsides in softboots a little harder to figure out though.How to really get the board on edge without straight legs sitting on the toilet. Getting the knee into the snow on toesides isn't too hard, but everything you want to do to carve harder on heelsides seems to counteract the edge angle. Just stand in place and crouch down... tends to drive the board away from the direction you want for heelside engagement - unless you really focus on bringing the board up towards your chest - almost leading with the toes. Grabbing for the board seems to help focus on this for me, but it's still not as easy or effective for me as that lateral motion. Also, if I tend to over-rotate into the turn and load up the front foot, like I might a little when initiating in hard boots, my rear foot is almost completely unloaded and I lose it. Seems like I need to stay facing your toes more.
...but for the bumps and tight trees, Im down and core counter-rotating like a sumbitch.This is the CASI way... If you can make it look clean, effective and can show someone else how to do it, we like.
??? If I understand what counter-rotating is, I do a hell of a lot of it in the bumps too. My friends make fun of my arms, but none of them can keep up with me... With a light board I can pop off one bump - tap the other direction, then move it back before putting my weight back down (sometimes). That's that must be all counter-rotation, since there's no external input - no? I can ride a pretty tight line like that, but judges may not use the word "Clean" to describe me.
Are you saying that's actually OK form though?________
) is undeniably greater than a short board (for flicking).
Are you saying that's actually OK form though?
Catek FR2 trade with goofy highback?
in Carving Central
Posted
I have catek FR2's with the carbon fiber (nidecker?) highbacks.
Was looking at how they are so specially contoured for leverage, and it dawned on me that they really should both be shaped to the same side. My forward foot, it's all good, but for my rear foot, it is really shaped the wrong direction. It's not a problem, it's just not taking advantage of the custom shaping.
I imagine they realize this, but it would be too hard to sell a goofy and a normal version. Of course, if a goofy rider and regular rider traded one highback each...
Make sense? Any goofies out there interested in trying a swap?
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No2 Vaporizer