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Mr.E

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Posts posted by Mr.E

  1. I "raced" for Tilton in NH several moons ago (err, 97 and 98 seasons?). In reality it was a ski team that let the snowboarders show up and helped schedual races for us with other New England schools. Other schools had coaching staff, our coach was a skier :nono:

    The team dissolved, but I was under the impression it came back a few years ago...?

  2. "Dynafit, hardboots for people who like to leave the resort"

    Koch pioneered a technique where he stops on 60deg terrain, sticks the ice ax, tosses in an ice screw, puts one crampon on his rear foot, and uses the board, crampon and ice axes to down climb glare ice.

    At that point its arguably no longer a "snowboard decent", but he's damn more ballsy then me.

    He also rides tiny freeride boards, but he doesn't weigh much and carries the damn things very, very far. Oh, and he rides on Burton race plates.

  3. I let the board tell me what to do, hence a love affair with Cateks.

    Generally more heal lift on the rear then toe lift on the front, and generally no cant. Freeride/ pow I usually run flat, race boards usually lift as above. On the 200 AM I use a little bit of inward cant on the front and a bit more toe lift then usual. Stance runs between 19.5" and 21.5" with a 32" inseam, seemingly with little bearing on cant or lift and more on "sweet spot" and insert pattern. I have pretty straight legs, and my feet point pretty close to straight ahead in a neutral flat footed stance.

  4. Purchased for the bindings, now it needs to go to a beginner, someone looking for a freecarve/all mountain ride or a good board for early season "snow". :biggthump

    The board had one pin hole in the base that has been professionally filled, and has a few puckers in the top sheet I assume are from binding screws that are also professionally filled. I would put this up as a functional cosmetic "second". Overall the board looks to be in really solid shape. I'll wax and brush with an all temp before shipment.

    Best offer, preferably cash, but I am looking for a BTS system, Bomber heels and toes, decent level bindings, and assorted other goodness. :D Thinking the $100 range?

  5. Burton alp 164 FS- Small pin hole in otherwise flawless base and marks on top sheet, presumably from bindings. Both will be professionally repaired before shipping. $120 Shipped

    Burton Adjustable race plates, stout, with a bit more built in rise then standard race plates. $60 shipped in the US.

    Buy both for $160 shipped, just in time for Christmas (or what ever gift giving season you dig).

    post-1412-141842221736_thumb.jpeg

  6. My AT boots (Crispi Diablo) are taller and stiffer laterally then my snowboard boots (Raichle 325).

    My issue with lower cuff hard boots is that they are either way to soft (mountaineering boots) or stiff enough to cause real issues at the boot cuff top. There is a call for a splitboard binding with a mountaineering boot lower and a soft boot upper for work in strap or hybid bindings (but not high back less plates). I'd reather just go hard boots, but if you are interested, check out the boots threads at splitboard.com

  7. What kind of footbed to you have?

    I have had achiness along the bottom of my arches since I was a softbooter, but it can defiantly be worse in my hardboots. I used a Comformable semi-cutom footbed that helped more then the Downunders I was on, but didn't sure it. I just purchased some Surefoot fully customs, and hope that helps with the rest. I do think overtightning my boots has been a problem, especially over the arch for me.

    Are you using Intec? I found them harsher on my heels. Another option might be the Bomber urethane heel and toe pads for a little extra give. How long have you been hard booting? I find that it gets better over the season as my feet get stronger.

  8. Back from the dead with this one-

    Every few years i start to wonder if everything I've been doing is good for me. This includes binding angles on multiple boards. Last season i tried backing my angles down and found that, as expected, I didn't like it and felt like I lost control on turn initiation. I ride about 55 to 60 front and 50-55 rear, with the expetion of my pow boards that I turn the back doen to about 45. Assuming most of us are riding Bombers and Cateks, does it really matter if our toes are over the edge? In reality, its still the size of the disc doing the pressuring in the same 5-6" radius, regardless of binding angle.

    Now, Burtons, Pro-flexes and other direct mount bindings may be diffrent, but with the burly interface, i can't see how it makes a diffrence, nor can I feel it in regards to edge pressure.

  9. You do the same thing I do when I poop, pull em down.

    I've tried wrist guards, Level gloves (ech), full face helmets, padded shorts, kneww pads and various assorted race (ski and board, not MX) armor.

    After limited success, changes to my mobility and the hasal factor, I'm down to a good, non full faced helmet. My wrists and arms get ust as banged up with guards as not, kneww pads slip and rotate during falls, and padded shorts never seemed to help with normal carving/freeriding. I've considered a turtle shell, but wonder if it will be another piece of gear I just don't wear.

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