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Gtanner

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Posts posted by Gtanner

  1. Yep that's me. I'm now out in Fort McMurray. Haven't hit gates in a few years (although miss it terribly).

    I was talking with Steve last week about my coming down to help with the NS team at Nationals this year...although I'd probably want to drop in...maybe forerun. :)

    Got in via the lottery in November! Flying out tomorrow... I'll keep you posted.

    BTW, is Gtanner = Gord Tanner? I race w/Fairbairn in NS. It's been a while since I've seen you at a race ;)

  2. Boris, Scooby, Tennor, etc,

    I'll be in Squamish for a two weeks starting the 12th of Feb (leave the 26th) visiting family. I was wondering if there has been any talk of a Whistler session or even a get-together at Cypress planned during this time...if not, is anyone interested in getting together for some turns? I'd love to spend a day making some trenches with some fellow trench-a-holics.

    :lol: I know "trench-aholics" great word eh?

    -Gord

  3. Ok, probably a dumbass question, since I'm too lazy to take apart my binding, what is the size of the TD2 suspension kit screws? I see the 18mm and 20mm in the bomber store and am wondering if I can size-up since Coilers tend to have deeper inserts...

    -Gord

  4. Well now that you put a p-tex candle into it, it is going to be VERY difficult to repair correctly. The p-tex candle has a lot of oils in it. Once you rip it out to try to do a real repair you will find that the base weld will not hold. There will be a lot of liquid leaking out of your base, this is from the p-tex candle. You should really base weld it with edge grip. It is the hardest base material out there. And will 100% protect your edge.

    Good luck!

    I completely agree, but I needed to ride the board a second day so I needed a quick repair. I agree that it isn't ideal, but it was a hotel room repair.

    -Gord

  5. Here is how the temp repair looks after one day of riding..so just dripped P-tex.

    I'm trying to decide if I should just use a base layer of epoxy and then top it off with welded P-tex or should I use the metal "tape" p-tex that is designed to bond with the metal layer, then top it off with welded P-tex...

    Thoughts?

    <a href=" SAM_0334" title="SAM_0334 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5341462133_f3de232b48.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="SAM_0334" /></a>

    <a href=" SAM_0335" title="SAM_0335 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5089/5342073664_621cf13e11.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0335" /></a>

    I did have a chat with Bruce, and he is recommending either a new board :) or to just use epoxy to fill in the base area completely.

  6. Here is a garage sale of stuff that I'm trying to get rid of.

    UPZ Straps - 4 total - SOLD

    Catek OS1 Heel Bails - SOLD

    Burton Race-plate parts + new stomp pad

    $25 plus shipping - OBO

    <a href=" SAM_0357" title="SAM_0357 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5336838519_832071be9b.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="SAM_0357" /></a>

    Descente race shorts Size Large - one tear at the crotch, full zip on either side

    $40 + shipping

    <a href=" SAM_0351" title="SAM_0351 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5207/5336833595_686669fb2b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0351" /></a>

    <a href=" SAM_0352" title="SAM_0352 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5204/5337446860_8623bb44fd.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0352" /></a>

    <a href=" SAM_0353" title="SAM_0353 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5088/5336836649_7f8ced8da2.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0353" /></a>

    UPZ thermo-foam liners - 26.5

    SOLD

    Louis Garneau Race Skin Suit - Size XL

    Amazing shape, signs of wear but no damage.

    $50 plus shipping

    <a href=" SAM_0347" title="SAM_0347 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5337443258_b0154cdd80.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="SAM_0347" /></a>

    Ski Boots - Dolomite size 26.5 shells

    $20 + shipping OBO

    <a href=" SAM_0345" title="SAM_0345 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5336829491_7381db3ff1.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0345" /></a>

    <a href=" SAM_0346" title="SAM_0346 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5042/5336830319_7ce7576d73.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0346" /></a>

    2-strap Booster Straps - used ~15 days

    $20 + shipping

    <a href=" SAM_0354" title="SAM_0354 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5346496981_8d0a1bb7d1.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0354" /></a>

    Shipping will be from Canada via USPS.

    -Gord

  7. Here ya go. Thanks for all the comments thus-far.

    <a href=" SAM_0215" title="SAM_0215 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5170/5330511855_a3f12030af.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0215" /></a>

    <a href=" SAM_0212" title="SAM_0212 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5284/5331121950_32f738763f.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0212" /></a>

    <a href=" SAM_0211" title="SAM_0211 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5048/5330510937_a5f759743d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0211" /></a>

    <a href=" SAM_0207" title="SAM_0207 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5330510471_86412618cb.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0207" /></a>

  8. I was riding at Sunshine this weekend, and apparently I managed to find a rock mid-carve…

    The gash is through the P-tex and a strip of metal on my beautiful Coiler is now showing, about 4” long and maybe 1.5-2mm wide and looks almost serrated (like the P-tex almost tore).

    I’ve read through a bunch of topics on this forum and others about base repair with big chunks out of a metal board/ski, but couldn’t really find any with respect to a long/deep scratch that is ~1cm away from the edge.

    I’m wondering if anyone has any experience with this. My short-term repair (so I could ride the next day) was to melt some regular P-tex into the scratch and it held up ok…not great but ok. I’m curious as to whether I should consider cutting out a patch (all the way to the edge or not?) and repairing it with epoxy, or should I buy some metal-grip p-tex like the stuff on Tongar and then repair everything with a candle or welding iron.

    I’ll try to get some pics up tomorrow (just got a new camera, trying to figure it all out).

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. My goal is for a permanent repair that I don’t have to worry about constantly. I know this will likely be a somewhat time-consuming exercise, but I don’t have any trust-worthy shops in town, so unless I ship the board somewhere (which I may do to either repair or re-base the board), I’m stuck with a DIY repair.

    Thanks,

    Gord

  9. I saw no HB's in the 2010 Olympic BX. Those bizarre whoop-de-doo obstacles (for lack of a better term) at the start would be murder on HB's.

    HB's are also worse for recovery after a collision or bobble.

    "Wu-tangs"

    I was working on the course doing shaping. Those things are HUGE and would be murder on HB's. And there were no HB's on either the mens or ladies side at the 2010 SBX Olympics.

  10. I've got to agree with Jack, this is a blown-knee waiting to happen. Those screws on the front toe-block will snap coming off an off-fall-line roller as you extend on a heel-side and you'll be done.

    I love the idea of tinkering and trying things. Working boots is great, but playing with the stresses of bindings...be careful.

    -Gord

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