mackDan
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Posts posted by mackDan
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The title says it all, the disks and the old TD-1s (toe clip version) have been sold. I still have the Step in TD-1s are still available. Thanks
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I can't set my GPS faster than one trackpoint per second, unfortunately. Erwin
GPS won't work very well for measuring your speed while carving, for a couple reasons.
1. GPS's accuracy for a given location is +/-30 meters. That's because of a bunch of error sources in the GSP Satellites and the transmitted data. Now if you do multiple measurements in a row (say over a minute or two) Some of those error sources will get temporarily small, making GPS a bit more accurate, but that 33 mph or what ever your measuring probably has a few MPH of error
2. GPS's data rate is 50 Bps, but the messages (which contain the data) are only transmitted once a second, and that's what GPS uses to calculate position (from which it derrives velocity). That's why you can't set the unit to calculate data faster than that.
3. Since the calculations are based on 1 per second locations, it will calculate the speed of the GPS unit, where ever it is over the several seconds it takes to make a speed calculation. Which means that if you carve at a frequency of 10 cycles per minute (a cycle is a left and a right turn), or 1 cycle per 6 seconds, your GPS unit will measure your speed at 6 points in your cycle of left adn right turns. So draw a sine wave and pick 6 evenly spaced points and connect the dots and you'll see what GPS is trying to use to calculate your speed.
4. What #3 actually means is: the slower you go and the smaller the turn (closer to the fall line), the more accurate the speed measurement. Which means go really slow and GPS will be accurate or go in a straight line (which defeats the desired "carving" measurement).
5. What you really want to measure is the speed of the board in the middle of the carve, because your hands and your head are going faster and slower at various times in the carve. So holding a GPS in your hand and trying to measure your speed is going to screw things up a bit.
6. A radar gun would work much better, giving an instantaneous value.
Or a simple time-distance calculation (have someone time you while you do 5 nearly the same Left/Right turn sets, then measure the total lenght of your carve (not the straight line distance) and divided to get MPH or KPH.
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Gabe,
You should be able to repair those. You can find replacement T-nuts at your local Ace or other hardware store, in those small parts drawers. I think its a #10-24, but take one of your screws along to match it up (try threading it). I would also get replacement screws, get Stainless Steel, and check the flat washers to see if there is one small enough to fit in the heel hole. Buy 8 of everything and fix both boots.
You'll have to drive the T-nuts out, of the boot. I would get a socket wrench socket, that is a bit bigger than the base of the T-nut, so the t-nut can fit inside it. Then put on a long or couple long extensions, and stand that up vertically, put the boot on upside down and take a 1/4 bolt and hammer and drive what's left of the T-nut out.
Good luck.
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I have a superx 164, which I use as a powder board with hard boots. Good board, stiff, can be a bit rough in the chop if your not driving it hard, will carve hard. I like it in the powder too. I think I paid $200 for mine about 2 years ago.
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These boots have been sold and are finding their way to Canada, in search of good snow.
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I never lean my board or let my firends lean their skis against the side of my car. Always lay them down on the ground or put them in the racks. I've seen plenty of people knock them and scrape nice big curves in their paint.
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The bindings are still available
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Yup. Correction, the lower boots are 26.0-26.5. THanks
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A used pair of Raichle 224's, dark brown. The lower boots size is 25-26.5, so they will fit that range with the right liners. I bought these as 26.0's. They have about 100 days on them. Everything works good. One of the ankle strap hold down covers has a small section cracked out, but that doesn't affect its operation. Everything else works good. I just repaired the 4 rivets on the lower buckes with Stainless Steel screws and weld nuts (like a T-nut), so those are tight, as are the upper buckles (the picture is of my current boots, but its the same on these boots). Thermoflex liners, were only heated once, but have started to break down right at the ankle (about 1" x 2" area), see picture. More detailed pictures available via e-mail. $75 plus shipping.
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No don't sit back, Ride neutral. If you have a good wax job, you'll go fast. If you watched that race closely, he would move faster in the corners than he was on the flat sections. Bad wax job lost him that race.
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First Freestyle Owned: Nitro 162
First Alpine ridden: 164 Oxygen Proton
First owned: Burton 157 Factory Prime Asymetrical
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I'm dropping the prices slightly
Disks $20 (for the set)
TD-1 toe clips $75
TD-1 Step ins $150
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I have a zero and a 3 degree disk for sale for the TD-1's. I also have TD-1's for sale. There are a couple other guys selling disks, check the forsale area.
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That's what the toe piece and Intec heel are actual for.
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The force down (your mass) equals the force up (earth holding up your weight). To remain balanced you always have to support your body weight or you will fall over.
When you are standing straight up 100% of your weight is on your feet, which happen to be directly below you. Straight up means that you body angle is 90 degrees to the surface your standing on and the sin(angle) of 90 degrees = 1.
when you are at an angle to the earth (in a carve) the force down (straight down from your CG) is still your weight (mass), but the sideways force has to balance that, so you don't fall over. The side force plus the down force (your weight) combines to be one force acting down your central axis, i.e. through your legs and the board.
So the simple answer is that the force you feel in your legs is body weight times 1/sin(angle).
So I weigh 170# and lets say my true central angle from my CG through the board is 45 degrees. 170 x 1/sin(45) = 170x 1/.7071 = 170 x 1.4142 = 240# of force, or 1.4142 G's
If you can get to a true 30 degrees to the snow, thats 2 Gs, and 19.5 degrees is 3 Gs, 14.5 degrees is 4 Gs, 11.5 is 5 Gs.
But now I said true angle of your CG through the board. This is not where your hand or your head is at. You might have your head pretty close to the snow, but your BUTT is sticking way up in the air, and your central angle is probably about 20-40 degrees.
And this is for a stable turn, with ALL of your weight on your board, entering and exiting the turn. If you put your hand on the snow, you take some of the load off your feet and you decrease the G load. If you crash or skid out during the turn you were not balanced and did not experience the real G load.
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I'm trying to be funny. Pull the liners out and look inside. On the Rachile boots, the size range is marked on each of the three major parts, lower section, upper cuff and the tongue (did I spell that right?). They markings are on the side of the ankle area.
Like my 26" say 25-26.5 inside the lower section, so depending on what liner you put in them they should fit a 25-26.5.
There is a separat mark on the outside of the heel, which is like 277mm or 285mm. That is the external length of the lower boot section mounting plate. This is measured from the tip of the toe piece to the tip of the heel piece. Its not the overall longest length of the boot (that would be tip of the toe to the rear tilt lock assembly). Its also not the toe and heel bail interface length which is on the same plane, but is shorter.
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Federal Express Ground service is cheaper, and its pretty quick between US addresses. But I've never shipped a board using them. ANd I've never shipped accross the boarder with them either.
The stuff I have gotten (heavy engine parts) was delivered no worse, and mostly in better shape than the stiff I get through UPS.
You can get pricing information at the FedEx web site.
P.S. They will ship to a home residence (up to 70 lbs), but shipping to a business is cheaper, so if you can receive it at your work, it will save a few $ (or $CDN).
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Well, one thing is to just ride more. You'll build up more strength and endurance over time.
I swim and bike, and do a bit of weight lifting. Yeah I know you're going to say "how does swimming help strengthen the legs for carve boarding"?. Well my answer to that is evertime you turn at the wall, you do a squat, and the harder you push off the more of a workout you get. If you swim a mile in a 25 yard pool you will push off the wall 70 times, in the short period it takes you to swim that 1760 yards (So that's like doing 70 squat reps in 25 minutes).
The biking obviously is a long distance single leg extension/squat exercise over the 1-2-3 hours you go out for a ride. Climbing steep hills helps develop those leg muscles good.
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I used to have TD-1's so I really can't comment on TD-2s. But I switched to OS-2s for their infinite adjustablity to solve a rear knee pain issue.
I've only got a partial meniscus in my rear knee and I've been getting increasing amounts of pain when I ride and post ride. The TD-1's were putting my boot, lower leg in a position that was loading a particular spot inside my knee and causing a problem.
I've had my OS2s for 6 days of riding now, and I think they are great. They are slightly (very slightly) more flexible than the bomber bindings, but I think its the way the binding holds its position on the board (relying on the board for support for the cant set screws), which means the binding flex is somewhat related to flex of the board. They are also, as mentioned, very adjustable, which makes them harder to set up. I think I just found my correct position (zero pain, great control) after 6 days of riding and adjusting and moving them around. They are also a bit lighter than the TD-1s (and TD-2s?), but that comes at a cost of complexity. If you want to change cant, 4 bolts per binding, if you want to change angle its 7 bolts, you want to change fore aft locationg, it all 11 bolts on each binding, and about 15 or so parts floating around while you move each binding.
If you don't need infinite adjustablity, or want the stiffest binding around aim for the TD-2's (that's why they are called Bomber!). If you need some more adjustability like me, can live with the time required to set them up right, the OS-2s may be for you. If you want super simplicity, then its the F2's.
Good luck
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That must be the newer version of the Orange and Black Super 64x. Which I have one of, its my powder board. Yes it is a bit stiff, and it does carve pretty good. For a $100, it would be a good all mountain board.
But I doubt the 70 mph claim, although frozen sh*t falling down a suitable steep slope could go that fast too.
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Its like surfing, the deeper the slush, the bigger the wave. You just have to learn how to ride it.
Bigger board = float, NO. Smoother ride maybe cause your spanning all the little bumps. I think you guys are confusing powder and slush. They are not the same, the slush is way more dense, and you don't need a big board for riding slush. You guys think a big board is the answer to everything.
A little slalom board will be great in the slush. But like anything that's not perfect groom, you are going to have to learn how to drive through it. That means a bit of practice.Yes its a lot of work pushing more snow around, but it also can be lots of fun.
Depending on where you are on the hill and how many salmon are (beginner/intermediate skiers/boarders) populating the run, I would summarize it as either a long slow turn through a big wave (slush pile), or a lot of really short quick turns back and forth across a slush ridge, or through around a slush piles.
If you need a short board to try out in the sluch, I'll loan you my scorpion 160 or my 162 hot shine.
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I did this by my self, and you could too, but it might be a bit easier if you had a friends help.
Stance width: put your boots on and standing on the floor align your boots roughly to the angle you want to ride at. Jump up in the air a few times getting both feet off the ground, try and land where your legs are comfortable. Have your friend measure your stance width.
Set the bindings on the board for that width or just slightly wider (1/4"). Set the binding angle where you think you want to ride at. As an example set the front at 56, rear slightly less (55 to maybe 50).
Now put the Catek binding plates on and tighten the center mounting screws and with the 4 corner adjusting set screws roughly where you think you want things but leave them slop by about 1/8" at each corner.
Get into the bindings and while maintaining the binding angle (you'll have to do this since the set screws are not holding the binding angle, flex your knees and rotate your upper body. While you are doing this have your friend (or be aware of) see where the binding screws are hitting. If your floating and never touch, set out, tighten the screws one turn and repeat. If you notice that you are hard against the rear screws on the front binding, tighten the front two screws and loosen the rear. Continue until you have the screws tight and the bindings where they fit you.
What you are aiming for is the tightening those set screws until you have the bindings set, where your legs, knees, hips feel comfortable standing, and squating, facing forward and side to side. That will typically be a bit front toe up and rear heel up (basic geometry).
Then go ride the board and see how it is. make small adjustments after that.
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From what I heard, "Telemark" is the name of a city in norway where people who were working as "messengers" used cross country skis to travel through the mountains. Obviously, it is hard to turn on cross country skis going down hill, so through the year, they developped a technique (Flexing your back leg, weight transition) to control their speed doing "slalom". They called it Telemark. Now your question is ''what's the point?'', well I would say it's just another way to go down the hill, I heard it's pretty fun (and hard). My 2cents. -Jules;)
How did snowboarding come about? It was a guy who was a skier, looking to do something different, like surfing on snow. It was an evolution of another sport.
Well Telemark skiing, Alpine skiing, Randonee skiing and snowboarding are all evolutionary extensions of the earliest "skiing" which was a transportation method in the winter time. Some people made snowshoes, and some made skis. The skis were faster, especially down the hill and people figured out a way to control their speed, via the Telemark turn. So people have been skiing like that for over 100 years. Then sometime in the 20th century (1930's) people figured out that if they had a better boot ski interface the could get more control and go even faster, thus the Alpine binding and boots were developed. Then came plastic boots, releaseable bindings, Randonee bindings, Plastic telemark boots, modern telebindings, releaseable tele bindings, etc.. Then the evolution continued to the 1970's when some wacko decided he wanted to surf on.
Because of that evolution, and the telemark turn, you are able to go out and enjoy Alpine boarding.
assym Kemper on E-bay for those collectors
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