Spoon Shao

https://www.hardsnowboard.ru/product/krepleniya-dlya-snouborda-mountain-slope-race-titanium?lang=en It is a russian website. And I know it is pretty strange since I can't find description anywhere else. Maybe @MountainSlope would be able to verify it for us?

@ShortcutToMoncton Because the height of the heel bail(metal part) is 53mm, and MS's heel height is 50mm or so. Thus when you step into the bindings, it would be the heel bail holding all your weight, your sole won't be touching the bindings' heel surface, like the drawing below.(yellow part is the boot's heel, and there would be a gap if you use f2 race titanium with MS) Today I found on the description page of MS's own version of f2 bindings(named Mountain Slope f2 bindings), they say they lower heel bail by 3.8mm, so the situation above won't happen.

Yep, I guess this 'snug' feeling is probably the result of lower heel bail? And if the boots' heel cannot touch the bindings, then all the pressure would be on the heel bail, might be the reason why so many people breaks their heel bail. Anyone share the same thought?

NEW QUESTION! I bought f2 race titanium bindings and try it out with my B shell MS 120, like what sigi said, I found that the boots' heel cannot fully touch the binding's base, which results in a 2mm gap. Do you just ignore this? Or do you DIY some thin material on to the binding so that you can truly step onto the binding instead of putting all the pressure on the bindings heel bail? According to the description of SG performance bindings, they use heel bail 3mm lower for MS boots, should I just use a 3mm plate under foot?

Did some shell punching and liner heat molding yesterday and this time it worked! We heated the shell longer and stretch it out more than last time, it turns out that it is harder to punch compared to ski race boots. Feels great and can't wait to put it on slopes. FYI, according to MS, their liner requires 176 degree Fahrenheit (that is 80 degree Celsius) for maxium of 5 mins. I did it and it feels better.

Nice Korean-style carving!

Will forward this info to my ski boot fitter, thanks! To ensure a better fitting result, I luckily found a well experienced MS boot fitter today, will see him later this evening. I will update how it work out!

@Jack MThank you for your advice, I really love this forum, and will definally do the oven method! Did some shell work with my ski boot fitter who has no experience with snowboard hardboot yesterday. We tried to punch out the side and it felt okay at ski shop, but after I got back home, it seems that the shell shrinked back to the original width... According to my fitter, the shell is significantly thicker and harder to heat up (soften up) than racing ski boots. Does anyone know what temperature does the 951 needs for punching? There is just so little info and so little experienced fitters around me.

Hey guys, read all 12 pages of this topic, learned quiet a lot. This is definately the best forum of this super niche hobby. Bought a WC 120 with B shell 265 liner recently, feeling the liner has too much volume. I am wondering if heat molding the liner could help. I have rather wide feet (267mm length and 110mm width), but I skied a lot so I am more or less 'mentally tough' with boot width. So no shell work needed for now I think(and pray for). Has anyone diy heat molding the stock liner? Do you pull it out and put it in your oven? Or do the hot rice socks method like those done with intuition liner?