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weather_nerd

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Posts posted by weather_nerd

  1. I guess it depends on how you define "softer" bindings... my Now Drives feel soft compared to my O-Drives, so that's my answer 😄. I have become a fan of Now bindings over the past couple of years. I really like the responsiveness of the skate tech and the straps tend to be really comfortable without being too soft. I also have a pair of Nidecker Carbons from ~2 seasons ago that are fantastic and feel more forgiving than advertised. Not they have the Kaon series which look pretty nice. My last pair of medium stiffness bindings were the Flow Fenix's. They were great but I just don't like rear-entry bindings so I got sold them.

  2. ~~~SOLD~~~ Kessler Alpine 180 cm GS board

    Purchased this board here over the summer. Finally got a couple days on it and decided it is too big for me and my narrow trails here in AZ. I could only get this thing to turn on some extra wide sections of the trail, and even then it was just too much for me. Linking the ad below from which I bought it. Here are the stats that I have:

    Custom Built for 154-176lbs rider
    Nose 24cm
    Waist 19cm
    Tail 22cm.

    I don't have any other details, such as the date of manufacture or turning radius. But it is definitely a GS board. I paid $850 incl. shipping and put two days on it. My loss is your gain - asking $750 $650 incl. shipping anywhere in the lower 48 states.

    Check post below for pics. I will add my own pictures asap.

     

    ~~~SOLD~~~ UPZ RC10 MP 27.5 shells with widened forefoot. Heavily used but still have some life left in them. No cracks, just beat up and yellowed due to age.

    I purchased these used over the summer as well. First pair of UPZs and they were way too narrow. I had the forefoot widened by a professional boot fitter (Humphreys Ski Summit in Flagstaff, AZ), but they are still too darn narrow. Now the main problem is around the achilles, which is so narrow that my foot goes numb after an hour or so. Again, my loss is your gain.

    I paid $180 incl. shipping. Used about 5 days or so. Asking $150 incl. shipping anywhere in the lower 48 states. Original post from which I bought the shells below. Will add photos ASAP.

    I have some beat up Deeluxe liners with a lot of foam around the heel dremeled out to widen the achilles area. I can include them for free if you want. Otherwise they are headed to the dumpster.

     

  3. Agreed, this guy is a natural! I took to hardbooting pretty quickly... I think that a forgiving combination of boots/board was a big help.

    I'm in my 23rd year softbooting and 2nd hardbooting. Getting into hardboots has made me a much better softboot carver. I'm much more comfortable with largely positive angles (+30-40° on my SG Soul). Now if only I could improve my hardboot skills 😄😭

    • Like 1
  4. Parting ways with my SG Force 160 cm after one year of riding. Purchased in December 2020 from @i-carve.com, I have ridden this board less than ten times. It is a great board but I have decided it is too narrow for me as a softboot extreme carving board, and I have replaced it with an SG Soul XT (also from i-carve). The Force is marketed as a boardercross board and a soft/hardboot carving board.

    The SG website is selling this board (same year) for €645 new (link with price and board stats). I am asking $350 USD. That price includes shipping anywhere in the lower 48 states. This board is in 9/10 condition. There is a bit of binding rash from Donek riser plates, but otherwise the top sheet is perfect. Just sharpened and diamond-stone polished the edges with 0.5° base bevel and 88° edge bevel, which is exacly how it came from i-carve. I have p-texed a couple of small scrapes, but nothing even close to a core shot. Freshly waxed with Swix universal temp wax and brushed. Great structure in the base.

    Stats from SG's website:

    Overall Length 1600 mm

    Running Length 1400 mm

    Nose Length 120 mm

    Tail Length 80 mm

    Nose Width 293 mm

    Waist Width 245 mm

    Tail Width 272 mm

    Sidecut Radius 13 m (Average of three different, progressive radii)

    Setback 45 mm

    Stance Range 480-680 mm

    Insert Pattern 4×2

    Suggested Settings

    Reference Stance 580 mm

    Angles Front 15°-35°

    Angles Back 5°-25°

    Edge Tuning Base 1°-1.5°

    Edge Tuning Side 88°

     

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  5. IMHO, stance width is a balance between mobility, stability, and comfort. Stance width and binding angles go hand-in-hand, too. With steep angles in an alpine setup or softboot carving setup, having a narrower stance increases your mobility, especially with stiffer boots. But, having a stance that is too narrow forces you to balance over a narrower "base", so you lose stability. Same is true with a standard softboot setup with more neutral angles, but there you can get away with a wider stance without losing mobility. My softboot setups are 1-2 inches wider than my alpine setup, depending on binding angles. My fun all mountain board (+12/-6) is my widest setup.

    Try standing with your feet at your preferred binding angles and try doing some squats with varying stance widths. You will see what I mean about mobility!

     

  6. Just upgraded to some stiffer UPZ shells and it's time to get rid of my Deeluxe Track 325 shells. I purchased them new in 2020 from Donek as my first hard boots.

    They are in great working order but look a little rough. Used about 20 times. I added a bit of adhesive foam padding to the tongue and upper cuff to fill out the calf area for a snugger fit. I added a BTS kit with medium springs (blue). I can also give you the original Deeluxe forward lean mechanism.

    Note that these are the SHELLS ONLY and do not include a liner.

    Asking $250 $200 - includes shipping anywhere in the lower 48 states. Pay through Venmo or Zelle.

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  7. I think that SLC is the best choice. Big Cottonwood Canyon has way fewer people than Park City or Little Cottonwood. And then you have Snowbasin and Power Mountain too. Some of the best snow in the world, and $2 million would get you a mansion there!

    Other ideas:

    Some of the lesser known resorts in Lake Tahoe would be great. Think Homewood and Mt Rose.

    Bend, Oregon for Mt Bachelor.

  8. Heard two baffling comments from the same person (soft booter) in the lift line at AZ Snowbowl today.

    To his friend: "Make sure you stay on your heels. You're not supposed to snowboard on your toe edge. It's super dangerous." For context, this was an intermediate/expert lift on a powder day.

    To a skier: "How much were those snow pants?"
    Skier: "Uh, I think around two-"
    "-Two thousand?"
    "...... no, two hundred"
    "Woah, that's cheap! I usually see snow pants for eight or nine hundred"

    • LOL 2
    • Confused 2
    • Sad 1
  9. On 2/20/2021 at 8:17 AM, b0ardski said:

    I have a set of those 20yr old binders with stepin that I bought NOS a few years ago; the original box came with different length screws to accommodate the cant/lift shims, I will double check mine to make sure the proper screws were used. Since they're all plastic, at 200# I only use them on my powder boards

    The box included longer screws for the heel lift for the heel shim, but not the toe shim. Lesson learned - check every screw!

  10. I think I should start keeping track of comments in an Excel sheet... right now, the "monoski" comments are definitely the most common, but I want some statistics to back that up.

    Yesterday, a skier followed me into the lift line and said "You snowboard beautifully". I'm not sure if he was complementing my snowboarding or my looks? 🤔

    • Like 1
  11. 2 hours ago, lowrider said:

    Worse if it was a front foot coming out. Twisted the hell out of my knee but lived to tell the tale. Buy a lottery ticket and consider it a life lesson.  4 threads of engagement required  at a minimum !!! 

    Agreed, I was lucky it was the back foot. I'm not sure if the screw was simply too short (canting + heel lift shims on that screw) or, as Corey said, the screw had actually loosened out to two threads.

    1 hour ago, lonbordin said:

    40 mph on Carve RS knockoffs... I hope you're on the diminutive end of the human scale.

     

    Yes, I am on the smaller side. But regardless, going fast on plastic bindings is not the best idea I've ever had...

    1 hour ago, Mr.E said:

    Not sure when you bought those bindings, but they haven't been made in many years. That screw may have had an exceptional service life.

    I bought these as "new old stock", only used four days so far. The screws should still be fine. I think it was either too short or it had loosened, as Corey said.

    1 hour ago, Corey said:

    Two options: 

    1. That screw and all of its buddies only have a few threads engaged, and one eventually pulled out. Check how many turns of engagement the rest have. They may all be close behind. 

    2. That screw was loose and backed out far enough that only 2 threads were engaged, and it pulled out. 

    Either way, thank the snow gods for the positive outcome and buy new screws and T-nuts for all 8 locations. Either longer versions in case 1, or the same in case 2. 

    I though of both of those possibilities too. All of the other screws have plenty of engagement, but I think that this particular screw may have been too short due to the canting and heel shims together. Either way, I'll be getting new hardware.

  12. Today I had a binding failure (Nidecker Freecarves) on my last run. My GPS watch had me above 40 mph when my back foot came loose. I slid a few hundred feet on my back but I was 100% fine, luckily. I saw that my toe piece wad sliding around and figured a screw had come loose. 

    I just took it apart to add loctite to each screw and was surprised to see that the offending screw had actually had a few threads sheared off. It looks like it was too short, despite coming with the bindings. 

    Anyone see this happen before?

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  13. I got a Tranny Finder in a 157 this year and so far I think it's great. Like the two posters above, my board does have wrap around edges and seems sturdy.

    I'd say it's not amazing in any particular area except for plowing through soft chunder. It feels rather heavy and damp, which helps in that area. I do think that it's a "good" carver on groomers - one of the better soft boot carvers I have been on. But not as good as my SG Force, or the Burton Vapor that I owned a long time ago.

    I rode it in waist-deep champagne powder and found that I did have to lean back a bit, even with the large nose. The shape of the nose made it want to hook and sink in the powder. So, next snow storm, I'll stick to my K2 Cool Bean. But, it was still "good" as a powder board when leaning back a bit.

    I recently shifted the bindings forward in the insert packs which made it feel more like a freestyle board as opposed to a true freeride board. It also gave me a longer tail, which seems to help with driving carves off the back foot. 

    I'm happy with this as a daily driver softboot board. Is it the best board I have ever ridden? No. Is it a good, versatile directional softboot board that can rail carves and pop off side hits? Yes, especially after moving the bindings forward.

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