jburk
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Posts posted by jburk
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The reason I started this topic was because of getting a base grind; the tech said he wasn’t comfortable running it through with the spike stomp pad, too much chance of it coming out uneven, and he also wasn’t confident he could get the pad off without marking up the top sheet, it currently doesn’t have a single scratch or blemish,
I’d rarher have a cautious tech than an inconsistent base grind, and I’d rather I mark up the topsheet myself instead of second-guessing the hapless tech after the fact.
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These things have a seriously good adhesive, normally a good thing. Has anyone had any luck removing one of these without damaging the topsheet?
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I think it qualifies as 17/18 new board porn if you ride it before the end of the season, right? Arrived today, taking it up to Timberline tomorrow.
Thirst 7.1 WARP Superconductor, 175cm with an 18.3 waist.
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argh. Am I missing something, or is there no "bulk delete". First instinct is to sort by upload date, select everything older than X months, and delete N images in one go.
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office@kessler1.ch
has worked for me.
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19 hours ago, queequeg said:
I don't generally do auctions (either buying or selling) because they are more work. When I buy something I want to buy it and be done with it. I don't want to have to deal with waiting for some auction to end and only then discovering whether or not I am going to get the thing that I want. When I sell something I just want to say "This is the price" be done with that.
What he said.
Another aspect of selling in the BOL classifieds is I feel it's an opportunity to give back (in a small way) to the BOL community. While I'm usually trying to convert the unused gear I have back into cash to finance the purchase of some other piece of kit, I'm not trying to wring every last dollar out of my sale, and at the same time hopefully provide another member with a decent deal. I think the quick turnaround from offered to sold on most of my listings indicates that the pricing has been good for all concerned.
I feel like putting gear up on auction removes that opportunity to pass on a deal to another member.
Auctions also have a competitive aspect that seem to run counter to the cooperative spirit of this forum. If I miss an item in the classifieds because someone else saw it first, my reaction is "Damn. Good for you, you lucky bastard". If I were to lose out on an item on auction, my reaction would be "Damn. You bastard."
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Intuition ProTongue for me, UPZ boots. No experience with Deeluxe boots or Palau liners.
Note that I have an extra-wide forefoot and really narrow heels as well, so what works for me may only apply to hobbits. When the bootfitter was testing the shell fit, I have 1-1/2 finger width at the back, but moving the foot back to where it would normally sit when in the liner showed that my forefoot touches the shell on both sides (without liners).
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On 4/29/2018 at 5:42 PM, barryj said:
Thanks for that Intuition Liner Link! Pricey little buggers!
I just compared the Intuition to the Palau 141 liners in Bomber store, Bomber was selling the Palau 141's last year for $199, and the three Intuitions models I mentioned are all $198.
http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/Palau-141-Thermo-Flex-Liners_p_179.html
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1 minute ago, FrankNBeans said:
...I can't upload the pictures of yesterdays hummingbird visit nor the evening porcupine visit.
It's all part of Jack's evil plan to make ASB a self-sustaining entity, you have to be a subscription member to upload now. Check out the blue "subscriptions" tab at the very top of the page, or just http://forums.alpinesnowboarder.com/subscriptions/
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Intuition has a good selection of tongue liners: https://intuitionliners.com/product-tag/tongue-style-liner/
You should check out and compare the luxury, pro tongue, and dreamliner. The pro tongues work well for me, they're the stiffest of the tongue-style liners, have a really roomy toebox, and a 2mm sole with a 7mm removable insole, which is handy if you want to swap out the insole for a footbed of your own.
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It's all working for me now. Bought and paid for, image uploads seem to be re-enabled, no banner ads.
Thank you @Jack Michaud for everything you've done to keep this forum up and running! I only wish Paypal could send beer.
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Subscription sign-up not quite working yet?
QuoteSorry, there is a problem
We are unable to process your purchase. Please contact us for assistance.
Error code: 4X196/3
It's like a "no soup for you!" haiku
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Starting to see that ads show up while logged in, at the top, bottom, mid-thread, in multiple places on the same screen at the same time. (screenshot doesn't want to upload right now for some reason).
On 4/12/2018 at 6:21 PM, Jack Michaud said:and there will be different levels of paid subscriptions available to reduce or eliminate the ads.
I'm happy to support ASB in any way, if ads are what it takes then so be it. I recall reading that a subscription model was mooted where for a periodic fee you could suppress the ad display. Is this still in the works? Let me know when this option is available, and I'll gladly send money to support ASB directly!
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Would compression be a desirable or detrimental characteristic in the case of the binding shims? I'm wondering if the binding bolts could experience loading during the compression cycle that would lead to fatigue, bending, early failure, etc...
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14 minutes ago, pokkis said:
I'm using those screws on my F2's
They don't have the serrations under the flanges like the stock screws, do you ever have an issue with them backing out over time?
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On 4/24/2018 at 11:30 PM, MarkJeangerard said:
Also, it has become very apparent that the 22mm, 26mm, and 36mm bolts that come with the bindings do not provide enough options. One of the bolts goes right to flush with the T-nut and two others only have 1 or 2 threads holding. (I did not tighten them. I was just excited to feel the stance.) Depending on how stupid I go with revisions, I might want a box with 22, 24, 26, 28, 31, 34, 36, and 39mm bolts in it. I would say don't even start without 31mm bolts in hand. It's not the short and long extents that get ya. It's the intermediate sizes.
I'm wondering if the way to go would be buy 40mm bolts and a rethreading (thread repair) die. Mark it to length, thread on the die, another 2 nuts to act as a guide, and cut the bolt with a dremel. Can anyone out there tell me if the die is overkill, and will just filing a chamfer and taking the nuts back off clean things up enough?
These bolts look like they'll be a good replacement for the stock hardware, the head height is a bit lower than stock (3.3mm vs ~3.6mm) and the flange width looks to be the same at 13.6mm with my meagre skills with a $5 caliper.
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@jim_s, can you clarify a concept for me? Are the number of shells related to the "wall_thickness" parameter in your published .scad file, or is the shell value solely for printer control and wall_thickness affects the geometry in the exported STL?
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@MarkJeangerard: What material did you have these printed in?
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I’m planning on experimenting with cant/lift combos in ABS on a $200-300 home printer to keep the costs down, then getting a final set printed in something like SLS nylon by a service. Should be close to break even with 5 to 7 different variants, and much quicker turn around.
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Perhaps the amount of splay (difference between front and rear) is what feels odd now. Try leaving the front at 25 and bring the rear forward to 10 as a compromise,
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This is from the other thread on this topic:
@Donek: did you ever get a chance to try out printing in some shims in PETG?
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Might be beneficial to include a non-printable object in the scene located near the edges of the shim whose height could be compared to the thinnest part of the shim for a visual reference for minimum thickness.
"Shim's thinnest edge must be thicker than this cylinder is tall" sort of thing.
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16 minutes ago, piusthedrcarve said:
For the record, I just measured the lengths of the 2 screws that come with F2 bindings for wedge installment and they are 22 mm and 28 mm.
YYZCanuck has these on their site, the 3 lengths are listed as M6 22m, 27mm, and 36mm.
2 hours ago, Colozeus said:Are the stock screws long enough so support a 6 degree toe lift?
According to the manual, if you have 5mm of thread exposed below the combo of lift and cants you should be good.
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Removing a Dakine Spike stomp pad?
in Carving Central
Posted
If only someone had acesss to a 3D printer large enough to print s bridge that could be mounted to a set of inserts in the front and rear insert pack. If you can run skis through the machine with the bridge that looks to be about 4in tall, something tall enough to only straddle the stomp pad should definitely be feasible.
But it would probably be $150 to print it…